Backhoe JD 110 TLB bucket control problems

[gwilson356]

I need an illustration of the Bucket control handle linkage to the spool controller. Hand control mounting screws fell out and it was almost impossible to curl the bucket down, now that I have messed with it, it does not work at all. If someone has a manual could you send me an illustration of how the linkage connects. TY for your help. Gene

 

[disney]

This is not what you are looking for is it?

 

[gwilson356]

Thanks Disney, do the two control rods cross over each other back to the spindle they connect too? Are there any springs on the control rod spindle?

 

[kennyd]

I am on limited access right now so I can't get you the drawing, but www.jdparts.com has everything you need, it the same basic parts system the dealers use and it's free to register. There's a quick tutorial linked in my sig if you need help with it.

 

[gwilson356]

Thanks I was on JD Parts and looked at the control handle linkage for the SCV, it looks like the bell crank is 90 degrees out of where it should be, not sure how that would happen.

 

[jenkinsph]

Is this what you were looking for?


http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/MP62/MP62831________UN01NOV05.gif

 

[disney]

Are you all set, or do you still need anything? I should be around today. If you take a picture of what you need, I can try to help, but the 110 I have access to has a skid plate, and that will likely make it hard to see much, or get any good pictures.

 

[gwilson356]

I set up the Bell crank as illustrated in JD parts section 70 page 139. It solved the problem. I do want to note I have never touched the linkage or bell crank since I bought it in 06. The only thing I have done is tighten the screws that hold it to the frame. The inner bell crank was installed 180 degrees out according to the drawing. I believe JD did this to get the control handle rods to connect to the bell crank, there was no way even with the mount screws out the bell crank could turn that far to the right. If you look at section 70 page 139 the left control rod connects to the single hole left of the bell crank mount pin, somehow they managed to connect it on the rt. hand side of the bell crank. Why it has worked this long without being an issue I can't say. What I can say it is now installed per the drawing and works much smoother with no binding. All functions are working as they should. Life is good today, I have my TLB back in service. Gene

 

[MH110]

I set up the Bell crank as illustrated in JD parts section 70 page 139. It solved the problem. I do want to note I have never touched the linkage or bell crank since I bought it in 06. The only thing I have done is tighten the screws that hold it to the frame. The inner bell crank was installed 180 degrees out according to the drawing. I believe JD did this to get the control handle rods to connect to the bell crank, there was no way even with the mount screws out the bell crank could turn that far to the right. If you look at section 70 page 139 the left control rod connects to the single hole left of the bell crank mount pin, somehow they managed to connect it on the rt. hand side of the bell crank. Why it has worked this long without being an issue I can't say. What I can say it is now installed per the drawing and works much smoother with no binding. All functions are working as they should. Life is good today, I have my TLB back in service. Gene

I don't know if my issue is the same or not, but on my 110, the vertical linkage and horizontal link that both connect to the bellcrank just started binding. I had forks on the front and was lifting a light load, the linkage binded (bound?) and dumped the load and joystick shoved to the left on its own. WTH is going on here? The linkage is definitely stuck, so I shut the tractor off before anything else happened. Any ideas?

 

[MH110]

Also, not sure if it makes a difference, but the lever at the base of the bucket/loader controller has been frozen for as long as I've owned the machine.

 

[AKfish]

Also, not sure if it makes a difference, but the lever at the base of the bucket/loader controller has been frozen for as long as I've owned the machine.

Hmmm.... Are you referring to the loader control "lockout" lever? It disables all of the loader functions and makes it impossible for someone to inadvertently use the loader and possibly injure or damage surroundings.

 

[MH110]

Hmmm.... Are you referring to the loader control "lockout" lever? It disables all of the loader functions and makes it impossible for someone to inadvertently use the loader and possibly injure or damage surroundings.

Yes that's the one. I've never been able to move it one way or another. Parking brake lever is frozen too.

 

[beenthere]

Couple projects there to get them moving again...

 

[MH110]

Couple projects there to get them moving again...

After comparing parts diagrams and the machine, it looks like the bellcrank is 90 degrees out, see part # 24 in the diagram. This might explain why it would work in some positions and bind in others. It also appears that someone messed with the bracket (part #28 in diagram), I'm not sure of its exact purpose, but it looks to be a stop so that the bellcrank doesn't rotate past its stop and bind/get stuck.

I really like this machine in spite of how many things I've had to un-EFF that the previous owner rigged.

 

[AKfish]

To tell the truth.. the self-leveling loader linkage on the 110 is one of the more "problematic" aspects of that tractor. It's probably right up there at the top of the list for PITA's. Followed down the list by the location of the rear SCV's...

As I get more hours working the machine, the more slop and play develops in the linkage with the result having a way less effective curl and bucket dump function. You gotta really "stand" on the joystick to work the bucket.

So, I'll probably have to replace and rebuild some of the worn pins, bushings, etc. in the near future as well.

Be curious to hear about your efforts to get the loader function back in shape.

 

[ultrarunner]

As anyone disabled the bucket leveler?

For somethings it seems more of a hindrance in my opinion.

 

[MH110]

To tell the truth.. the self-leveling loader linkage on the 110 is one of the more "problematic" aspects of that tractor. It's probably right up there at the top of the list for PITA's. Followed down the list by the location of the rear SCV's...

As I get more hours working the machine, the more slop and play develops in the linkage with the result having a way less effective curl and bucket dump function. You gotta really "stand" on the joystick to work the bucket.

So, I'll probably have to replace and rebuild some of the worn pins, bushings, etc. in the near future as well.

Be curious to hear about your efforts to get the loader function back in shape.

I've noticed that too! I'm too embarrassed to post a photo of the bracket that was bent out of the way. I'm not sure if this was done because they didn't understand how this setup works, but it looks like it would prevent the bellcrank from spinning around and getting stuck and binding.

The loader arms on my machine need new bushings, and probably pins too, so I'm kind of wondering how the best way to do that is. The tech manual says use a gantry crane (to lift the loader arms) that I don't have, I'm thinking I might be able to use my engine cherry picker that's good for 2000 lbs to lift the arms up enough to press out the old bushes and press in new ones.

As anyone disabled the bucket leveler?

For somethings it seems more of a hindrance in my opinion.

How would you do this? Remove one of the links? I'm not sure if this would benefit you or not. Up until parking it in my driveway for a major overhaul currently, I was using the forks attachment, so the leveler definitely came in handy.

 

[MH110]

I should post my laundry list of things to do and subsequent tech articles (with photos!). I just brought the machine home a couple days ago for an overhaul.

Immediate to-do:
-unfreeze parking brake assembly
-find elec connectors for front aux hydraulics (switches are there, but no wiring harness hooked up to them, all the plumbing is there)
-full fluid service and filters
-replace all grease nipples, yes ALL of them
-replace rusted out platform/floor
-rebuild forward/reverse pedal assemblies
-repair bucket level linkage
-repair joystick lock-out feature
-replace entire seat assembly (if they make the parts still, my machine has the older seat)
-replace battery box, cables
-assembly backhoe lock mechanism
-fuel level gauge
-replace front aux quick connect ports
-bore dipper stick oval hole (oversize) and locate a bushing from mcmaster (not sure why JD didn't put a replaceable bushing here...plenty of meat.
-about half of the bushes/pins in this rig are tired, so I have my work cut out for me

I know there's more on the list once I really get into the thick of it, but we'll see. I bought the machine knowing it needed a good amount of work and I wanted the experience. It had a little more rust than I thought, but JD still stocks almost everything for this machine, so that's a good thing. It did not come with factory rear hydraulics, so I'm toying with idea of biting the bullet and adding the 7th function manifold for the hoe. I know another member did a pretty good aftermarket setup for use of a top and tilt/3 pt hitch setup, but not sure how easy all that was sourced.