JD 4200 w/PB, Want to add two spool valve at rear.

[Scotty370]

In my BIY Stump Grinder project, I need to power two Double Acting cylinders, for raise/lower, and left/right movement of the cutter wheel assembly. My JD4200 has PB and currently powers my BH. Currently, the lines that I'm using for the BH power, disable my 3PH lift arms. You back up to the hoe, lift it on the mount pins and lock, then disconnect the hoses, and plug them in, to power the BH, This disables the TPH lift arms. The Grinder will be TPH mounted. I need the TPH lift capability, along with the two new DA cylinders. Am I right in buying the below valve? I envision that I'd take the PB pressure hose to one side, and PB outlet hose to the other. It's an open center valve body, that would power the TPH lift arms. Right? (he says, hopefully) Then just use the four ports on the top to each of the new cylinders. Sounds way too simple. Here's the valve I'm looking at:

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Also, this valve is spring loaded (self-centering) on both handles, but the one side has a dedent. Could I change-out that spool so that it wouldn't have that 'dedent'? I don't want this thing moving the full travel unless I'm pushing the lever to do so!! Thanks in advance! ~"Scotty"

 

[kennyd]

You plan is fine...In fact on the newer PB setup's from JD there are two returns-one goes directly to the tank disabling the 3PH (like you do now with the backhoe) and one that feeds the 3PH keeps it active. Look at JDParts to see the difference.

The valve you linked is fine. Do not worry about the detented position-it's for float (like on your FEL) and wont move the cylinders if you accidentally activate it.

 

[forester2]

Scotty: Please let me know when you do it. Sounds like the exact same setup I have on my Ford 2120 and that is how I envisioned doing mine. If you don't mind I'd like to come over and see it. By the way, if you go to the Brand web site, it gives a decent flow diagram and port labeling. Ken, these do need to be O ring fittings coming out of the valve, don't they? I was going to use a joy stick valve but the concept is same.

 

[kennyd]

Ken, these do need to be O ring fittings coming out of the valve, don't they? I was going to use a joy stick valve but the concept is same.

I am a little unclear of your question If you are referring to the valve linked above...then yes, the SAE fittings have O-Rings.

 

[Scotty370]

Thanks KennyD- Based on your OK, (and there being no objection from the rest of the TBN jury!) I guess I'm going with that valve. These are the cylinders:

Standard Hydraulic Cylinders For the lift,

and this one for the swing:

Standard Hydraulic Cylinders

If they move too fast, What are my options? Restrictors in the pressure lines? I'm envisioning that I'm going to want this unit to work slowly across the stump, and also don't want to worry about 'dropping it' down too quickly! Eagerly waiting for your continued input! Thanx! ~Scotty

 

[kennyd]

Scotty, just use 1/4" hoses for the cylinders and you will have no trouble with control.

 

[forester2]

kennyd: Didn't look at attachment first. No, I was looking at the Brand joystick valve a lot of guys use on their TNT.

 

[kennyd]

kennyd: Didn't look at attachment first. No, I was looking at the Brand joystick valve a lot of guys use on their TNT.

That will still work fine...

 

[Scotty370]

KennyD- Well, almost 3-months after I started this thread, I'm in Hyro-Mode again! OK- Grapple is built, and I'm now back on the Grinder! Since I purchased the valve in post #1, I've changed my approach. As you know, I put the 3rd SCV on the tractor, and am now going to use that as my Hydro source (Bungeed in forward). Can I still use the valve I've got? It's got 7-ports?? The two at the far left, are stamped "P" & "T", the work ports go to the two rams, (understood) the right end of the body has a port below the right spool, that's on the "out" galley. Which "Out-to-Tank" port do I use? Steel plug the other? Or totally wrong valve!!!

 

[kennyd]

Hmmm...tough call. That valve really should be plumbed into the system because it has the PB connection...It could be made to work but you will need to have three lines hooked to it-two to your rear remote and one that goes directly to the tank.

You cannot just plug-off one of the ports. Weather or not the PB sleeve can be removed from the valve I am not sure...

 

[Scotty370]

KennyD-More info! I think I'm 'Golden', but need your reassurance. The valves and PB block are all ganged together with three all-thread rods. The port on each valve ( both valves are the same body) have a large O-ring that allows them to be 'stacked', but, the ports are also threaded and beveled for ORB fittings. So my feeling is just remove the PB Block, and go in with pressure on the one side, and out on the other side! Pictures attached. ~"Scotty"

 

[kennyd]

I think that will work...not 100% sure. Certainly worth a try for sure.

 

[Scotty370]

KenneyD- Well, your right, as usual, even when you think your not! I just had to know, so another visit to "Bucks-Deluxe" hydro shop, $200- later, I had 2- 3/8" by 24" hoses with QD's on one end, and 3/8" JIC, on the other! Also bought 2- 1/4" hoses for one of the rams, and a bag of fittings. Plumbed up to the 3rd SCV on the tractor, and bungeed the 3rd lever! Rear pull on the lever pressurizes the TOP QD! Good flow through the valve body, and no leaks, or hyro-growl! Plumbed the first ram, and, voila!! Good movement! I'll wait on the other lines, 'til I get a better price, but I've got operational flow in the second valve also! If you need a PB block for a Cross valve, I'll send it to ya!! Shouldn't be 'bugging ya' ('til next time) !! Thanks! ~Scotty

 

[kennyd]

KenneyD- Well, your right, as usual, even when you think your not!

Thanks! Can you call my wife and tell her?

Glad to hear everything is working out for you...

 

[Scotty370]

KennyD-I just wanted to give you an update, was going to PM, but others may be interested. When using the Third SCV ports (bungied to the rear) for my raise/lower, left/right swing, everythings works as we previously discussed. But, it deactivates the ability to raise the TPH. So when I want to reposition the grinder, I raise/lower/swing the grinder cylinders where I want them, and then 'neutral' the 3rdSCV to raise the TPH. Re-position to the next 'cut' location, lower the TPH, then re-activate the 3rdSCV, w/bungie. Guess I just wanted to let folks know that the third SCV and TPH, use the same (pressure) source. Did your wife get that dozen roses I 'faxed' her? I'm still pickin' stems out of the 'feed-tray"!

 

[kennyd]

KennyD-I just wanted to give you an update, was going to PM, but others may be interested. When using the Third SCV ports (bungied to the rear) for my raise/lower, left/right swing, everythings works as we previously discussed. But, it deactivates the ability to raise the TPH. So when I want to reposition the grinder, I raise/lower/swing the grinder cylinders where I want them, and then 'neutral' the 3rdSCV to raise the TPH. Re-position to the next 'cut' location, lower the TPH, then re-activate the 3rdSCV, w/bungie. Guess I just wanted to let folks know that the third SCV and TPH, use the same (pressure) source. Did your wife get that dozen roses I 'faxed' her? I'm still pickin' stems out of the 'feed-tray"!

Glad to hear that everything is working for you. Having to put the 3rd SCV in neutral makes sense since ALL the fluid is being sent directly to the sump bypassing the 3PH. The only way to solve that is to plumb the valve via the PB circuit...