JD 670

   / JD 670 #11  
Glenn, yes the ratchet blade assembly on the 70 series tractors is too narrow and wears quickly. Consider taking TWO of the ratchet blades and welding or pinning them togather to make a wider blade. This blade should last at least twice as long as the OEM blade.
Also, you can re-cut the rounded out ratchet notches sharp again with a three cornered file.

george
 
   / JD 670 #12  
George: Thank you for the advice. I'm going to crawl under the tractor again and plan my attack. Two (or three?) of the rachets fastened together sounds like a good solution. I really can't see simply replacing the rachet it if its going to wear out again soon. On the other hand, it's a pain to drive without a dependable brake lock. The only thing you can do on a slope is shut off the tractor and leave it in gear. I've even carried a piece of 6 x 6 to block a wheel. It's time to fix it!
 
   / JD 670 #13  
keoke 1: My apologies; I looked at your name again and realized that I had misread it as George. Sorry.
 
   / JD 670 #14  
I have a JD 365 blade and subframe, cherry, for sale. Specifically made for the 650 and 670. It's complete. In connecticut.
 
   / JD 670
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Yeah, they do just sip fuel!
I know what you mean about the brakes...my parking brake doesn't hold either. This isn't a major problem with the FEL installed, but I'll be removing it for mowing next spring...probably.
Even with squaring the brakes away, I think a chock (or wedge, as you mentioned it) is a value-added idea. In fact, make two and tie them together with a piece of rope...long enough to allow chock both sides of a rear wheel (ever seen this at an airport?). If one is off the tractor for more then a minute or two, it's better to be a little safer.
 
   / JD 670
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Hi Brad, what are ya askin' for the front blade/frame set up?

I think I'd prefer a rear blade for ease of installation, though...

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by RoyJackson on 11/25/01 12:33 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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