JD 7130 e-SCV failure. Need rebuild.

[RancherGuy]

Over the span of a month, all 3 of my e-SCVs (series 300) have failed. The tractor is 10 years old with 1300 hours. Periodically, once or twice a week, I started operating a small pull scraper. I did this for a couple of months. First month was perfect, then failures started happening in the second month. First, #2 was "drooling" between the SCV and ISO male coupling, dripping. Then #1 had a drain-down (hydraulic cylinder moves under pressure) that got worse and worse. I starting swapping hose positions. Now all 3 SCV have drain-down.

This morning the tractor was low on hydraulic oil, so I added 2 gallons. That lasted 4 hours before it needed more. I added 5 gallons. That lasted 30 minutes. When I look at the tractor rear, there are open hoses, maybe 3/16" in size, that have oil running out on the ground. They look like some type of bypass hose coming from the SCVs.

Help. What do I do? It is normal to have all of the seals fail so drastically and suddenly? I talked with the JD dealer and the young desk guy says there is no such thing as a "rebuild kit" for seals and such, but I can order anything I need individually (something in the neighborhood of $100 to cover each SCV). Is this what I need?

 

[Tx Jim]

Electronic controlled hyd functions are nice when new & operating correctly but can become a nightmare if they malfunction. I'm glad my tractors have manual controlled hyd valves. 300 series scv I located in 7130 PC were manual not electronic controlled. Is your tractor regular or premium model?

 

[DwayneB]

Check out onelonleyfarmer channel on YouTube. You may have to hunt thru the videos but he has several of him working on the electronic JD svcs. Everything from coils to rebuilds. Didn't seem overly complex to fix.

 

[Zebrafive]

Are the hoses from the quick couplers? The ones I've seen had two per coupler, one at the end/dust cap that collected the oil to catch bottle, and the other from the body of the coupler and those hoses connected back to the transmission fill.


For the "drain down" I think you need to check/replace the check valves (two per SCV) parts 7,8, 9, & 10

 

[Zebrafive]

JD does sell a repair kits for the 300 series SCV Four different ones, Plus you can buy individual parts

You can also buy individual parts for the Deluxe couplers

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

The op's parts person may have been referring to not much you can do with the couplers themselves beyond replacing the oring/bu ring in the coupler. There has been a plethora of substitutions since these couplers came out. If oring or oring/bu combo has been replaced and you continue to get excessive oil out of drain tubes you are probably looking at replacing the couplers as a whole. That might seem counterproductive but is substantially less expensive than the rebuild cost of the older style couplers like on soundgard vintage tractors. You do not have to go back in with couplers that have the drain tubes. If you stick with couplers that have drain tubes you just have to be careful to get the proper set. There are versions that have drain spots in different locations, some can be installed in top or bottom some have to be replaced in the proper spot. An example of a couple that does not have drains is AL200979 and will screw right into your tractor but be aware without drains it will dribble out the coupler when you unplug, etc. Excessive draining from the leak off makes me believe you need to start with new couplers, as far as cylinder operation has internal leakage on the implement been eliminated as a problem.

 

[1010]

Are they only leaking when the hose is inserted? Or all the time?

If it's just when the hose is installed, look at the far right diagram Zebrafive posted, number 3 is what you need, it's a o-ring and a Teflon washer that fit in the back each coupler, you will need patience and a small (pick set helps) to replace them.
Don't worry about hurting them coming out, going back in with new ones is when you have to get them straight and not bend the Teflon washer.
It's really not hard, just tedious.

They come in a kit of ten or twenty I believe it is, so be prepared, you will need them all eventually anyway.
I go through them like candy it seems like, and yes they will allow a lot of fluid to pass when they are used/worn.

The Teflon washer goes in front of the o-ring as you can see in the diagram..

 

[jd110]

It does sound like you are having problems with the couplers and not the valves. As Morrisonsteel mentioned, there are several versions of couplers that can be used. Your tractor probably has the deluxe couplers with dust covers and 2 different drains per coupler. All of the coupler versions are made to be able to connect and disconnect under pressure and all of them are around 100 bucks a piece. The feature in them that allows them to connect under pressure is what makes them leak down under load when they go bad. There are some seal kits to repair them, but by the time you buy the kit and pay labor to install the kit, it is easier and just as cheap to install new couplers. If they only leak around the hose tips, those seals are inexpensive and east to replace.

 

[RancherGuy]

Is your tractor regular or premium model?

Yeah, electronic seems nice, but this is one situation where I think manual may be better, although I doubt that the difference has nothing to do with the failures.

 

[RancherGuy]

Check out onelonleyfarmer channel on YouTube...

Good suggestion - I happened to watch some of his a couple of weeks ago before mine totally failed. His are a bit different in design and I think I have an internal leak issue than he did not have.

 

[RancherGuy]

Are the hoses from the quick couplers? The ones I've seen had two per coupler, one at the end/dust cap that collected the oil to catch bottle, and the other from the body of the coupler and those hoses connected back to the transmission fill.


For the "drain down" I think you need to check/replace the check valves (two per SCV) parts 7,8, 9, & 10

Nice pics! Yes the hoses appear like those in your first pic, but mine dump on the ground - unless they are supposed to reconnect to the transmission. Tomorrow I will do some disassembly to see if those valves are made up like your pic. The actual valve appears to be a slight modification.

 

[RancherGuy]

The op's parts person may have been referring to not much you can do with the couplers themselves beyond replacing the oring/bu ring in the coupler. There has been a plethora of substitutions since these couplers came out. If oring or oring/bu combo has been replaced and you continue to get excessive oil out of drain tubes you are probably looking at replacing the couplers as a whole. That might seem counterproductive but is substantially less expensive than the rebuild cost of the older style couplers like on soundgard vintage tractors. You do not have to go back in with couplers that have the drain tubes. If you stick with couplers that have drain tubes you just have to be careful to get the proper set. There are versions that have drain spots in different locations, some can be installed in top or bottom some have to be replaced in the proper spot. An example of a couple that does not have drains is AL200979 and will screw right into your tractor but be aware without drains it will dribble out the coupler when you unplug, etc. Excessive draining from the leak off makes me believe you need to start with new couplers, as far as cylinder operation has internal leakage on the implement been eliminated as a problem.

Got it. The JD parts person sounded very inexperienced. I have had the tractor for 7 years and nothing has been touched on the SCVs todate. It would not be surprising if all of the "soft" parts need and should be replaced. I will try to investigate more.

 

[RancherGuy]

Are they only leaking when the hose is inserted? Or all the time?

If it's just when the hose is installed, look at the far right diagram Zebrafive posted, number 3 is what you need, it's a o-ring and a Teflon washer that fit in the back each coupler, you will need patience and a small (pick set helps) to replace them.
Don't worry about hurting them coming out, going back in with new ones is when you have to get them straight and not bend the Teflon washer.
It's really not hard, just tedious.

They come in a kit of ten or twenty I believe it is, so be prepared, you will need them all eventually anyway.
I go through them like candy it seems like, and yes they will allow a lot of fluid to pass when they are used/worn.

The Teflon washer goes in front of the o-ring as you can see in the diagram..

Excellent advice. Thanks.

 

[RancherGuy]

It does sound like you are having problems with the couplers and not the valves...

I think it is both.

... Your tractor probably has the deluxe couplers with dust covers and 2 different drains per coupler...

Yes and yes.

... All of the coupler versions are made to be able to connect and disconnect under pressure and all of them are around 100 bucks a piece. The feature in them that allows them to connect under pressure is what makes them leak down under load when they go bad...

Interesting, but not surprising.

Labor will be on me, so we'll take it all into consideration when I get deeper into them. Thanks.

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

I will have to agree with JD110, your excessive draining is an indication that you need new couplers (or the oring/bu ring replacement which may or may not work at this stage). This coupler is used on a plethora of brands and they all fail, regularly, the scv's however are pretty darn good and do not require much tinkering. If there is a drawback to the ele vs manual it is not related to the internal hyd's it is related to the stepper motors and the electronics that control them. Not saying you don't possible have an scv problem as well but I believe you definitely have a coupler problem and you might save yourself a headache if you repair that portion first. Good luck.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I had an ugly encounter with JD over the similar couplers on our 6200. More fancy JD stuff that just costs a lot of money and grief down the road!

The couplers are incredibly complicated (more O rings than you can shake a stick at) and JD had a myriad of part numbers and versions. In my way of thinking, because there must have been issues.

Anyway, the easiest solution was just to buy new couplers, except my local dealer was out of stock. I drove to a dealer farther away and got a couple. Well, one new one would not release the male without a pry bar. NOT IMPRESSED!

I was considering just replacing them with regular couplers. Sometimes, it can be annoying when the coupler just spits the male out, when pressure is applied even though you plugged it in and it held.

Also, they take a good firm jerk to remove the male, and unless you are Hulk Hogan, it can be hard to find a place to stand where you can apply that force.

But now I'm thinking. You need to remove pressure from regular Female couplers, which is also a pain.

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

Not unique to Deere tractors, I have came across this same coupler/couplers from many brands. And although they are a pita it is still better than the costs of rebuilding older style couplers (by a long shot). Deere however could have written the pc a little better for these. Because some of the books are so poor your dealer probably had some couplers that would have worked fine as anyone has noticed looking at these in the p/c there is a lot of choices.

 

[Zebrafive]

Yeah, electronic seems nice, but this is one situation where I think manual may be better, although I doubt that the difference has nothing to do with the failures.

Electronic only moves the spool in the valve.

Not unique to Deere tractors, I have came across this same coupler/couplers from many brands. And although they are a pita it is still better than the costs of rebuilding older style couplers (by a long shot). Deere however could have written the pc a little better for these. Because some of the books are so poor your dealer probably had some couplers that would have worked fine as anyone has noticed looking at these in the p/c there is a lot of choices.

I have the non deluxe (no drains) on my 6415

 

[Industrial Toys]

On my machine, the couplers simply have a plastic cap with rubber membrane that slips over whatever series or make of coupler you have. Barbs on the tops and bottom allow connections of hose to the coupler above and then using a Y ultimately to a stupid little bottle that I guess is supposed to save the planet.

 

[Zebrafive]

The deluxe couplers have two lines and the inner line connects the trans fill