JD3520+ICY ROAD+CHEVYSUBURBAN=

[dirtworksequip]

AKfish, yes I contacted the dealer to get their guess on how much labor would be involved IF the frame was bent. Their service manager figured it might be around 50 hours @ $65. per hour to do the frame change if needed. Also checked on having the dealer move the machine from my place to their shop. Transportation was between $90 and $100 one way.


I have taken measurements at several different points and locations and tried to eyeball to see if I can see anything else that might be out of wack. Its hard to find a place where you can get a measurement from the same points between the right and left sides of the tractor.
Yesterday I put my 300cx loader on to see if every thing was ok there. It seem like everything was ok as far as the loader, although there is quite a bit of flex in the loader and I'm not sure even though it went on ok that is an indication that everything is still straight. I have looked at the tires and wheels and I know what everyone is saying about how they look in the pics. I put a level on both the fronts and rears and they do seem to be about the same, but thats still not saying that they are ok either.
I also went ahead and replaced the broken draft link and reinstalled the landscape rake, as there was about 3 inches of snow here today. I ran the tractor about 4 hours using the rake and front loader to do some snow removal. I didn't realize how efficient the front blade was at removing snow compared to using the front loader. I absolutely hated using the front loader for cleaning several driveways that I do for some elderly people. Its just twice as fast to do with the front blade. Maybe I ought to try and put the mangled blade back on the tractor. Everything still works its just all off center now.
I called the adjuster and he said he had contacted the Deere dealer that I deal with and was getting together a parts list thru the dealer. I then called the dealer and their parts guy said he was trying to get together a parts list for the damages between customers. I email both the adjuster and the dealer parts man the list I came up with. I guess now I'll just have to wait and see what the insurance company comes up with.
Thanks again for all the input and advice.
Sincerely, Dirt

 

[davitk]

Before everyone starts talking about camera angles or the fact that it is a digital camera or what the right tape measurements should be.

Herein lies the problem, LBrown is looking at a picture from a digital camera. Need I say more


Good luck.

I sorry, I put the emPHAses on the wrong sylLAble. What I meant to say, was, LBrown is looking at a picture from a digital camera. Now I've said more

OK, back to the discussion

 

[KubotainNH]

"I didn't realize how efficient the front blade was at removing snow compared to using the front loader."

Yep, a blade is much quicker. It's usually wider and moves the snow to the side if wanted. I like your setup, hopefully all will be resolved quickly. Still too much winter left to be without your equipment.

 

[gemini5362]

If I have a wreck in a car and it is non useable due to waiting for the other persons insurance company to repair it I get a rental car. You might check and see if the dealer has a loaner or rentable tractor for you to use while they are fixing yours.

 

[dirtworksequip]

gemini, right now I can use my tractor for the task I need to do. Mainly I have about 3000 feet of road in a private housing area that I do the snow removal. I can get by without the front blade and do the road with the landscape rake. The only things that I can't do that I did before is the snow removal on a couple of private driveways for some elderly people in the neighborhood. Its not something that I have to do. Even the snow removal on the 3000 feet of road isn't something I have to do. I guess I really don't have anything to gain from having another tractor here to take the place of my tractor. Now if I was under contract to do work with the tractor then that would be different and I would be looking to get a loaner unit paid for by the Suburban guys insurance company.

Thanks for the comments.

Sincerely, Dirt

The only thing I wish now that I didn't do at the time of the accident is get pics of the Suburban over the hill. It was really something! Everyone here would have enjoyed the the wild site.

 

[gemini5362]

gemini, right now I can use my tractor for the task I need to do. Mainly I have about 3000 feet of road in a private housing area that I do the snow removal. I can get by without the front blade and do the road with the landscape rake. The only things that I can't do that I did before is the snow removal on a couple of private driveways for some elderly people in the neighborhood. Its not something that I have to do. Even the snow removal on the 3000 feet of road isn't something I have to do. I guess I really don't have anything to gain from having another tractor here to take the place of my tractor. Now if I was under contract to do work with the tractor then that would be different and I would be looking to get a loaner unit paid for by the Suburban guys insurance company.

Thanks for the comments.

Sincerely, Dirt

The only thing I wish now that I didn't do at the time of the accident is get pics of the Suburban over the hill. It was really something! Everyone here would have enjoyed the the wild site.

Dirt here is my only concern. Lets say that his insurance company has an adjuster that wants to be contrary. They have found some damage already and have it listed. When it gets to the dealership the dealership finds something wrong that will be a major repair internally. If they find out that you are using the tractor they can make the arguement that there was a small problem but you using the tractor worsened the condition and they are not going to pay for it. I realize that there are a lot of ifs in that statement but it is a concern. If it were me I would probably get it into the dealer as soon as possible and let them get started on what they are going to do.

I also realize that you do not do commercial work with your tractor. You have purchased an expensive tool that you are going to be deprived of your useage of. While the suburban driver did not intentially deprive you of it. You will be deprived while it is being repaired. If you derive pleasure from helping out your neighbors it is the insurance companies job to give you something to do that with while your tractor is being repaired. That is my 2 cents worth but I hate to have to see someone that is honest and helfpul to his community have to do without something because of an action of another.

 

[dirtworksequip]

gemini, I guess my thoughts on using the tractor is to see if I can notice anything that doesn't "feel" the same. By puting on the 300cx loader I found that everything as far as putting it on and taking it off seemed okay. I would hate to have taken it to the shop and after they did all repair work on the tractor and front blade, only to find out the loader mounts have problems. I feel that by running it a few hours I may find something that I wasn't aware of before. I understand what you are saying about going to the shop to determine what is wrong before running it anymore. Thanks again for your comments and insight. From the time I spent with the adjuster he seemed fair and understanding and wanted to find out all that he could about what might need to be fixed because of the accident. He even gave me some "off the record" advice.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[dfkrug]

Plus let the dealership do the repairs. ANYBODY WANT TO BUY A SLIGHLY HIT 3520!

I would buy such a machine if I found it locally. But I like these kinds of
projects.

Sorry to hear of the crash, DIRT. Why did it have to happen to such a nice
new shiny tractor, instead of some old beater?

Anyway, after all the claims dust settles and you have an ins offer, I think
you should be buying a new JD, and hopefully with nothing net out-of-pocket.

I figure:

cost of your tractor w/ broken attachments: $20K
damage to tractor and attachments: $10K, labor and parts
depreciated value according to ins co: $18K
Cost of new tractor w/ new attachments: $20K
you buy salvage tractor from ins co: $3-5K
you sell tractor as-is/where-is on open mkt: $5-7K

Just guestimate #s, but my point is that you let the ins co total it out,
but BUY BACK THE SALVAGE tractor and sell it to re-coup your losses on
buying another new one. BTW, I think $10K may be low on total damage
cost.

 

[gemini5362]

gemini, I guess my thoughts on using the tractor is to see if I can notice anything that doesn't "feel" the same. By puting on the 300cx loader I found that everything as far as putting it on and taking it off seemed okay. I would hate to have taken it to the shop and after they did all repair work on the tractor and front blade, only to find out the loader mounts have problems. I feel that by running it a few hours I may find something that I wasn't aware of before. I understand what you are saying about going to the shop to determine what is wrong before running it anymore. Thanks again for your comments and insight. From the time I spent with the adjuster he seemed fair and understanding and wanted to find out all that he could about what might need to be fixed because of the accident. He even gave me some "off the record" advice.

Sincerely, Dirt

That works. I was sure you had everything in order with it. I just happen to like seeing myself give advice so I type it in

 

[radman1]

I have just been reading these posts. I would put the blade back on the front and then have dealer look at it. With the blade on, they can seen the bends and problems. My guess, is they will repair everything unless there is a major unknown structural or component. 3-4 K for parts and labor won't be bad enough to total it. Especially, if most of the damage is in the blade. Tractor with cab and blade on front is still near 30K new. With car repairs, there is still a major concern for safety from improper repair which isn't a big issue with a tractor.