Jinma 354 help

[jbspapa]

I bought a 2007 Jinma 354 with 160 hrs on it a few weeks ago. I brush hogged with it the other day and have a question. When the operating temperature got close to 100 degrees C, I would let it idle and rest a few minutes (very tall weeds). While it was idling, until the temp dropped back around 80, the oil pressure would drop low and the light would come on. As the temp dropped, the oil pressure would come back up. Is this normal? I think I am going to change the oil in it just to be safe (don't know exactly when the last owner did so). What is the best oil to use in this tractor?
Any other insight about this tractor would be very helpful. First tractor for me, so I'm pretty green to this kind of stuff.
Thanks in advance.

 

[robert421960]

you have debris in the finns of your radiator causing it to over heat
and the hotter the motor the thinner the oil
try cleaning your rad with a water hose
then there alot of good ideas on keeping it clean here

 

[GuglioLS]

I've got a 2005 Jinma 354, the oil I recommend is Shell Rotella 15W40, or Chevron Delo 15W40. Being bought used, there is no telling what fluids are in your tractor, and weather or not it was ever serviced properly from a reputable dealer from the get go. If it were me I would drain every drop of all fluids and replace. In addition to cleaning out the radiator, I would drain and thoroughly flush out the cooling system, then replace the coolant with a 50-50 mixture of fleet charge antifreeze (contains Supplemental Cooling Additives (SCA) and distilled water. These diesel engines are wet sleeved and require an SCA.

Larry

 

[Diamondpilot]

Since you are new to tractors I will assume you are new to machinery. Sorry if I insult you. To clean the rad fins open the hood and with a cool engine flush from behind using a regular garden hose, no pressure washer. Many Jinma tractors also have a screen infront of the radiator so make sure you remove it and clean it also.

As Larry said I would change all the fluids. Start with the engine oil and filter. Next get the gear box and front axle, and lastly the hydraulic fluid. I am sure Larry or the other 300 series owners can tell you the filter numbers and fluids to use.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Another one for the list: change the injection pump oil. And if it has a separate power steering pump, change that fluid and filter too.

As far as protecting the radiator fins, I use a fiber furnace filter available at Walmart for seven bucks. It's big enough to cut down to two pre-filters for your 354. It's washable/reusable, and even stands up to my pressure washer (when removed for cleaning that is). See 20x30x1 Naturalaire Smilie Latex Natural Fiber Washable Filter

//greg//

 

[jbspapa]

Thanks for the info so far. I was told today by a friend of mine to use the Shell Rotella oil too. I know enough about machinery to know what will make an engine run hot. I stopped and cleaned the radiator plate screen 4 or 5 times. I think what the problem is is that the engine was run hot before I got it and the oil viscosity has broken down. I'm going to go ahead and change the oil first, then move to the other fluids next. The previous owner, 1st and only owner besides me, had the first service performed at the dealer, then the only other service was performed by himself. He was a diesel mechanic. He said the service he provided was done around 100 hours, it now has 167. He gave me 3 filters with the tractor, oil, fuel, and hydro. Where do I get the additive (SCA) that GuglioLS talked about?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Where do I get the additive (SCA) that GuglioLS talked about?

Not sure of your location, but if you live near a Wal-Mart you can pick up a product called "Final Charge" (or equivalent). Highly recommended for wet sleeve diesels especially. It has it all.

Final Charge Antifreeze Home Page

 

[jbspapa]

Final Charge looks like a good product, but it doesn't look as easy as just swapping whats in my tractor for it. Read something on the site about doing a freezing point check and adjusting otherwise. Am I understanding this correctly or am I reading too much into it?

 

[Bob Rooks]

If you get the pre-mixed solution there is nothing else to do except pour it in, but you should perform a good chemical flush-and-rinse prior to installing it.

 

[biggerten]

Final Charge looks like a good product, but it doesn't look as easy as just swapping whats in my tractor for it. Read something on the site about doing a freezing point check and adjusting otherwise. Am I understanding this correctly or am I reading too much into it?

Depends on your location. I'm where it can get a little cooler.

Coolant - I used Final Charge and mixed my own, 50/50 may be all you need, it would be easier. My mix was 60/40, 60% was Final Charge. The higher ratio was due to the fact that 50/50 is good to -34F, in Northern Wisconsin it sometimes gets colder. The 60% gets me down to the -60's.

For the engine and fuel pump I use Rotella T 5W40 synthetic, I'm comfortable with it year 'round, from -40 to 100F.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

I bought a 2007 Jinma 354 with 160 hrs on it a few weeks ago. I brush hogged with it the other day and have a question. pretty green to this kind of stuff.
Thanks in advance.

What engine do you have ??


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[jbspapa]

I have the Perkins 4 cyl.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

I have the Perkins 4 cyl.

The first thing I would verify;
Air flow through radiator.
Fan Belt not slipping.
Thermostat.

They have a little history of head gasket. I personally think the early blowers needed a cylinder head re-torque before it was put to work.

The engine temp will effect the oil pressure pretty drastic on these engines.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[jbspapa]

Does anyone know where I can find the Final Charge Coolant? Walmart, Napa, or Advance Auto sells it. If I can't get it around here (Final Charge website doesn't have a "where to Buy" link), doesn anybody have another reccomendation of what coolant to use?

 

[greg_g]

Truck stops. I bought mine for years from WalMart (50/50 pre-mix). But for reasons that totally escape me, they quit carrying it. I now get it from the area Pilot station (regretfully for about $3.00/gal more than Walmart used to charge).

//greg//

 

[jbspapa]

Thanks Greg, didn't think about a truck stop. Theres actually one close to me I can check.

 

[jbspapa]

Checked 2 local BIG truck stops today, they've never heard of Final Charge. Went to Triple T, which is a big White, International, and Volvo road tractor/truck sales and service center. They hadn't heard of it either....they said it must be a midwest or northern distributed product. They suggested Shell Rotella extended life antifreeze which is a comparible product to the Final Charge. One of the parts/service techs looked up Final Chrage online while I was there, explained to me exactly what it was/did, and showed me how the Shell does the same thing, just maybe not as well as Final Charge does in colder weather.

 

[greg_g]

ELC will be fine if you completely drain and flush your system first - then refill with ELC. That way no SCA supplement be required. But just topping up with ELC won't work. You need the whole cooling system full of it first, then topping up with ELC is ok.

//greg//

 

[jbspapa]

Did a complete flush and refill yesterday, changed the oil, oil filter, and changed the fuel filter....which DID not want to come off. Tractor runs great....I can actually tell it cranked up smoother. Oil pressure increased, so it obviously did need the oil change. Thanks for all you guys help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Did a complete flush and refill yesterday, changed the oil, oil filter, and changed the fuel filter....which DID not want to come off. Tractor runs great....I can actually tell it cranked up smoother. Oil pressure increased, so it obviously did need the oil change. Thanks for all you guys help.

When you get time I would also change the injector pump oil. Who knows what type of shape its in????

I would also plan on changing the hydro oil and the gear oil in both the tranny but also the front axle.

Chris