Jinma 354 white smoke no power won't rev past 800rpm

[quicksandfarmer]

When my oil pump quit I needed to move the tractor about 20 feet into the garage and was afraid to drive it. What I did was disconnect the fuel, put it in gear, and put a 27mm socket on the crankshaft and cranked it by hand. I think I had it in 4L. It was a pretty good workout but I moved it.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

The oil pump goes directly to the oil filter. Take the oil filter off and spin the engine, if the oil pump is working oil will come out of the oil filter housing. It helps to have a helper as this is messy if the pump is working.

 

[Tim Berframe]

I had tried that and not a drop came out. The gauge moves up to zero when I turn the key on so I'm sure the sending unit and gauge are working

I'm going to try splitting it where it sits. I built a solid platform to go under the front half. I scavenged some heavy duty wheels from a floor jack and will weld a platform on wheels to carry the weight of the engine with a bottle jack built in. The back half will stay stationary and I will use come alongs to do the tugging

Tomorrow I'll build a overhead gantry so I can lift the hood, head, and block if required

I have now officially spent more time working on this miserable machine than I have working with it

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Be sure to read the guide here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/318377-jinma-splitting-guide.html

I think you have the same tractor as I do so the details should be the same.

If you have all the tools and materials it only takes about two hours to split the tractor and four to get it back together again.

Before investing too much in this engine I would make sure that head gasket and oil pump are the extent of your problems. Those two aren't particularly expensive repairs, but the last thing you want to do is spend time and money and then find out the engine has other problems. In particular, I'm trying to remember if the oil pump is driven off of the camshaft which might indicate a camshaft or timing gear failure rather than an oil pump failure -- and which might help explain your other symptoms.

I don't particularly have any advice on how to do this, but if you take off the head and the oil pan you've got the top and bottom off of the engine. I can't give any specific tips other than to turn the crankshaft and make sure that everything that is supposed to move moves and nothing that isn't supposed to move moves.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Maybe take the valve cover off and turn the crankshaft and see if the valves move.

 

[Tim Berframe]

I called Ken at Asian Tractor Parts in Ontario to order gaskets and oil pump. I still wasn't settled on what was wrong cause two major problems at same time can't be coincidence but I couldn't figure it To his credit he didn't just sell me the pump. He suggested the same as quicksand farmer - check the valve train first

Just done that The cam shaft is broke. Cylinders 1 and 2 are strong. Cylinder 3 valves are both closed but low compression is leaking into 4. Valves on 4 are partially closed and don't move. No compression on 4

My guess is that cam broke but fuel keeps dumping into 3 and 4. Pressure builds in 3 and blew head gasket between 3 and 4. Water and unburned fuel up the stack as white smoke but engine started and ran on 2 cylinders. I'll confirm tomorrow night when I remove head

The splitting manual is very good. I was unaware of it. I need to split to get oil pan off so I can remove oil pump so I can pull cam.

While I'm this deep inside, I'm wondering if I should pull all the pistons, sleeves, rings, etc and measure specs on everything and make sure it is assembled correctly I've already done major work on the timing gears because a bolt fell out and now this.

Thanks for being a good sounding board

 

[redman135]

Just a suggestion, put the nuts screws studs etc in specific containers. ie all bonnet screws and bolts in one container,all radiator stuff in another etc, this will make it easy to find the right ones AND left overs tell you a particular item is not fully fastened.

 

[Agvg]

But have the valves survived when the cam broke?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I haven't ever had the camshaft out so you've reached the end of my expertise. I'm trying to think what even could put force on it, all I can come up with is a stuck valve or a jammed oil pump. But I would think a pushrod would bend or the oil pump would give first. Or maybe the camshaft was just defective.

If you follow the splitting guide, by the time you get the oil pan off there's only a couple of bolts holding the engine to the front half of the tractor. I suspect at that point it will be easier to take the engine all the way out to work on it -- assuming you have some way of supporting it.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Some googling tells me that a broken camshaft can be caused if a bearing seizes. Makes sense.