JM 284 Think my clutch needs adjusting? ?

[Rich Waugh]

Chris,

You're lucky as can be be that it wouldn't start - had it started, it would have blown the hydraulic pump. You dodged that bullet. :thumbsup:

Have you done the checking with telltales that I suggested? You may have replaced the roll pin in the external linkage, but if the hole(s) is wallowed out by the arm slipping around a piece of broken roll pin then the new pin would not be enough to correct the problem. Before you split the tractor, I suggest you go through the whole clutch linkage che3cking every connection you can to isolate the problem and/or correct all the little cumulative issues that total up to a non-functioning clutch.

 

[chris85]

I haven't done all of your suggestions yet. In my mind the shaft that attaches to the fork should be able to turn even by hand as the release bearing doesn't take much to move it, or am I wrong (again)?

 

[greg_g]

The release bearing does in fact travel easy part of the way; from rest, until it comes into contact with the finger tips. At that point, the resistance presented by the finger springs and the Belleville springs must be overcome. The fork roll pins are there to affix the fork to the shaft with enough rigidity to overcome that resistance. Worn pin holes, incomplete push. Gears grind. Broken/missing pins, no push. There might be some parasitic resistance that permits the bearing carrier to move a little. But if it stops at the fingers and won't go any farther, the pin and/or pin hole have become useless.

Oh, and if it's pinned properly - and mechanically connected to the external lever - you should not be able to move it by hand. It should only move with the external lever (that also must be properly roll pinned).

//greg//

 

[chris85]

Ok, so the exterior clutch arm is now double roll pinned, the shaft does move some and so does the fork, (I can see the release bearing move when the clutch is pressed). The clutch adjustments I made still do not seem to have made a difference, still grinding gears.

 

[greg_g]

The clutch adjustments I made still do not seem to have made a difference, still grinding gears.

When going into gear? or when engaging the PTO? If the former, have you adjusted the stop bolt? That's the one screwed into the bellhousing behind the clutch lever, it shortens or lengthens pedal travel. If all else is correct and you still grind trying to get into gear, you might have to increase pedal travel by screwing the stop bolt farther into the bellhousing.

//greg//

 

[chris85]

I'm reading about clutch issues and grinding gears and came across a couple folks who had clutches that rusted and froze up. I'm wondering if this is my issue.

 

[greg_g]

I'm reading about clutch issues and grinding gears and came across a couple folks who had clutches that rusted and froze up. I'm wondering if this is my issue.

It's a two-stage clutchpack. So again, the question is to whether the grinding problem is with the main drive portion of the clutchpack (transmission) or the PTO drive. If the former, you can see through the inspection port whether the main drive friction disc disengages from its two pressure plates. If it's the PTO however, that plate's next to the flywheel - out of view.

//greg//

 

[chris85]

so here's where I am at...After all of the adjustments it was like there was still no clutch just grinding gears. I clamped down the clutch pedal and adjusted the fingers until I could see the inside disc stop moving (sorry not sure what this part is called). So now this disc will spin when the clutch is not pressed and stops spinning when the clutch pedal is pressed down. There was very little tolerance, just a fraction of a turn on the finger bolts would be the difference between no spin and spin of that disc and then after a ride there was some slippage in traction so I had to go back and tweak it until I now get a little grind but no slip when driving. The fingers are not adjusted with any gap, they are just touching the release bearing. I am thinking the issue is the clutch is just worn out, or there is an issue with the release bearing or fork as there is very little travel when the clutch is pressed down.

 

[greg_g]

What I saw of the TOB didn't show any blue discoloration, that's usually a clue. So if there's no unexpected metallic scraping sounds happening when you push in the clutch, the bearing's probably ok. Most of the 200 series came with sealed bearings. But just in case, rotate it a full 360 degrees and look for a pin hole on the side facing you. If you find one, it's a grease opening. But you need a needle-tip adapter on your grease gun.

But a dry bearing should still not cause the grinding, so don't get hung up there. Assuming you successfully completed the adjustment instructions above, I'd go back and inspect more closely for
a) excess movement at external arm roll pin
b) excess movement at internal clutch fork roll pin
c) stop bolt screwed out too far
d) clutch pedal bent

If you're not sure what a part is called, refer to it by number from the diagram I uploaded earlier. Oh, and the fingers should NOT touch the bearing when the pedal is released. 1/8" gap, ok. Touching, no. The friction will heat the bearing and eventually destroy it

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Chris,

You said, "I clamped down the clutch pedal and adjusted the fingers until I could see the inside disc stop moving (sorry not sure what this part is called)."

I have never heard of adjusting the clutch pack with the clutch pedal depressed and I'm not at all sure you can even get a rational adjustment with the clutch pack under tension like that. Greg might know more about this, but it seems wrong to me.