John Deere 2140

[Tx Jim]

Failed bell crank needle brgs is common failure on JD utility tractors of this era mainly due to lack of frequent grease application.

 

[Zebrafive]

My 2030 would go into a "death wobble" in high gear on the road. I have replaced most of the steering components; draglink, upper and lower bushings in the knees, outer tie rod ends, bell crank bearings.

 

[Ausmac]

Mine was the same when I drove it home. Due to the lack of needle bearings there was so much play. It did a number on the bell crank and was past home repair so it is now in at the local machine shop. They are going to line bore it and bush it to suit new bearings. I also have them making a spacer up to fill the void between the bearings as there is nothing stopping the top bearing walking to the bottom which I think has happened. Also the circlip was missing from bottom of bell crank shaft which probably did not help.
It did turn out to have power steering after all, and I found the serial plate which was hidden under the home made weight bar it came with. #185103 which says it runs the long air filter AR84228 12 1/2 but the housing is only big enough to accept the 11 filter AT20728. Existing is a Donaldson filter, no inner.

 

[Zebrafive]

With power steering, you did not lose anything getting a 2130 instead of a 2140, other than older and few HP less.

 

[Ausmac]

I believe 7hp less? Same motor but the 40 was turboed I think? Because options are much more available in green I would love a loader. What size should I be looking for? I see 146 and 148 spoken about on here regularly, is there one size per machine or do they fit different tractors?
I was talking to an older farmer in our area the other day and told him about my front end, he said he did his knees??? on his as they were slapping and causing sloppy steering at high speeds.

 

[Tx Jim]

JD loaders that will fit a 2130 are 48,145,146.175,240,620

 

[Zebrafive]

To TxJim's list I will add the 245 (newer version of the 240?) It's what I have on my JD 2030, I wanted an easy to remove loader.

I rebushed the knees on my 2030. It might not have needed that, I did not see any improvement. Upper and lower bushings, two per side.

New draglink and tie rod ends did help. I also replaced the bell crank needle bearing (two that are stacked), mine did not look bad.

A BIG improvement was to replace the washer that bolts the draglink arm on. Recommended by user jd110. IIRC he stated JD came out with a fix for loader tractors, that was a thicker washer. I don't know if it was the thicker washer, or torqueing the bolt to spec when the new washer was installed.
The bolt is also longer, 5/8 x 1 3/4" (was 5/8 x 1 1/4") The old washer was .250" thick, the new .510" thick. P/N T42971 $24
Mine no longer "death wobbles" at road speeds when "roading" the tractor.

 

[Ausmac]

Zebrafive I will have a look at that washer and see it it stays tight. The knee bushings seem to be in good condition there is minimal play in them. A bit up and down but side to side minimal. I am getting the machine shop to make up an interference bush to go between the two needle bearings when he line bores it as I can稚 see any other way the bearings would sit in the right spot in the top and bottom of the housing other than the press fit. A needle roller race is fairly thin and it wouldn稚 take much to upset them, although I got a new bell crank pin so it is all new and standard size.

 

[Zebrafive]

I no longer remember if there was a gap between the needle bearing pair when I replaced them on my 2030. They are a press fit, I destroyed the old ones getting them out.

Make sure what the machine shop makes does not block the grease fitting.

The torque is also higher for the thicker washer/longer bolt. It went from 170lb-ft to 240lb-ft. I was told to use a bar (against the bolt head) and heavy hammer to strike the bolt, then retorque.

 

[Zebrafive]

Failed bell crank needle brgs is common failure on JD utility tractors of this era mainly due to lack of frequent grease application.

Thanks, that reminds me, I need to grease the 2030, mainly the steering and loader.

 

[Ausmac]

Yeah there is a fair gap between the bearings, the bearings are 1 inch wide so the gap would be 1.5 inches. They were going to make a drop in bush but I told them interference with the grease hole in the right spot so I can grease. Mine were already destroyed but it was hard to get even the thin piece of outer race out of the bore on the top one. Half inch thick washer would certainly need some serious torque.
Also, would you happen to know if there is a decent online operator manual available? I have got hold of a good tech manual but cannot find an operator manual. I never trust the free sites but if there was a reputable site that could forward the link (paid not pirated) it would be much appreciated.

 

[Tx Jim]

Have you considered get an operators manual online from JD? 1-800-522-7448 There appears to be 3 serial breaks so for correct OM you'll need to know your tractor's serial #.

 

[Ausmac]

Thanks Jim. Unfortunately I知 in Australia so not sure if ringing the US would help. I have my serial number now, found it under the front weight bar, riveted in the usual place. Is there an email I can contact them on?

 

[Zebrafive]

Have you tried John Deere US | Products & Services Information

 

[Ausmac]

Will check it out Zebrafive. Always plenty of knowledge on here though!

 

[Ausmac]

Hey Jim quick one, is there two types of transmission filters for a 2130? One for tractors with hi/lo and one for ones without? I got an AR75603?

 

[Tx Jim]

AR75603 fits most JD tractor models built from '61-'92 for sales in N America.

Tractors built for European sales can have different filter part #s which are AR75601 which subs to AL25554. My knowledge of these tractors is sketchy at best.

According to my JD parts cart AL25554 costs 2X what the AR75603

 

[Ausmac]

Well we are back on four wheels after two weeks. Definitely a two person job. Took a lot longer with one. Jack up, forklift down, forklift up, jack down. Got there in the end. Had to buff out the new bush to fit the hollow pin, guess it shrunk pressing it in. All works though so tomorrow is the full fluid and filter change. Will check the screen when I have the trans empty. Not sure if this model has the filter bypass, can not see a plug where it should be. The sump plug for the trans is beside the filter housing but there is another plug on the bottom of the right side axle housing. Do I need to drain both plugs? Or is the axle one not a drain? Will get a pic tomorrow if anyone needs it. Cheers for the help with everything, hopefully I can repay the favour in years to come.

 

[Zebrafive]

Which bushings did you have to buff? If the knee bushings, when I put mine in I ruined the first one, just hammering it in. Then I got smarter and put each on the spindle and used that as a driver to drive them in. So it took buying 5 to replace 4. Probably a repair mine did not need, I saw no difference.

 

[Zebrafive]

My 2030 has two drain plugs. You have to remove the drawbar to find one. Both are on the bottom. When I tried to check my screen, I could not get the plug out, so I did not check it