Tx Jim
New Member
Failed bell crank needle brgs is common failure on JD utility tractors of this era mainly due to lack of frequent grease application.
John Deere 2140
- Thread starter Ausmac
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Zebrafive
Super Member
My 2030 would go into a "death wobble" in high gear on the road. I have replaced most of the steering components; draglink, upper and lower bushings in the knees, outer tie rod ends, bell crank bearings.
OP
Ausmac
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2018
- Messages
- 111
- Location
- Proserpine QLD
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 188, JD 2130, Fiat 650
Mine was the same when I drove it home. Due to the lack of needle bearings there was so much play. It did a number on the bell crank and was past home repair so it is now in at the local machine shop. They are going to line bore it and bush it to suit new bearings. I also have them making a spacer up to fill the void between the bearings as there is nothing stopping the top bearing walking to the bottom which I think has happened. Also the circlip was missing from bottom of bell crank shaft which probably did not help.
It did turn out to have power steering after all, and I found the serial plate which was hidden under the home made weight bar it came with. #185103 which says it runs the long air filter AR84228 12 1/2 but the housing is only big enough to accept the 11 filter AT20728. Existing is a Donaldson filter, no inner.
It did turn out to have power steering after all, and I found the serial plate which was hidden under the home made weight bar it came with. #185103 which says it runs the long air filter AR84228 12 1/2 but the housing is only big enough to accept the 11 filter AT20728. Existing is a Donaldson filter, no inner.
Zebrafive
Super Member
With power steering, you did not lose anything getting a 2130 instead of a 2140, other than older and few HP less.
OP
Ausmac
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2018
- Messages
- 111
- Location
- Proserpine QLD
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 188, JD 2130, Fiat 650
I believe 7hp less? Same motor but the 40 was turboed I think? Because options are much more available in green I would love a loader. What size should I be looking for? I see 146 and 148 spoken about on here regularly, is there one size per machine or do they fit different tractors?
I was talking to an older farmer in our area the other day and told him about my front end, he said he did his knees??? on his as they were slapping and causing sloppy steering at high speeds.
I was talking to an older farmer in our area the other day and told him about my front end, he said he did his knees??? on his as they were slapping and causing sloppy steering at high speeds.
Tx Jim
New Member
JD loaders that will fit a 2130 are 48,145,146.175,240,620
Zebrafive
Super Member
To TxJim's list I will add the 245 (newer version of the 240?) It's what I have on my JD 2030, I wanted an easy to remove loader.
I rebushed the knees on my 2030. It might not have needed that, I did not see any improvement. Upper and lower bushings, two per side.
New draglink and tie rod ends did help. I also replaced the bell crank needle bearing (two that are stacked), mine did not look bad.
A BIG improvement was to replace the washer that bolts the draglink arm on. Recommended by user jd110. IIRC he stated JD came out with a fix for loader tractors, that was a thicker washer. I don't know if it was the thicker washer, or torqueing the bolt to spec when the new washer was installed.
The bolt is also longer, 5/8 x 1 3/4" (was 5/8 x 1 1/4") The old washer was .250" thick, the new .510" thick. P/N T42971 $24
Mine no longer "death wobbles" at road speeds when "roading" the tractor.
I rebushed the knees on my 2030. It might not have needed that, I did not see any improvement. Upper and lower bushings, two per side.
New draglink and tie rod ends did help. I also replaced the bell crank needle bearing (two that are stacked), mine did not look bad.
A BIG improvement was to replace the washer that bolts the draglink arm on. Recommended by user jd110. IIRC he stated JD came out with a fix for loader tractors, that was a thicker washer. I don't know if it was the thicker washer, or torqueing the bolt to spec when the new washer was installed.
The bolt is also longer, 5/8 x 1 3/4" (was 5/8 x 1 1/4") The old washer was .250" thick, the new .510" thick. P/N T42971 $24
Mine no longer "death wobbles" at road speeds when "roading" the tractor.
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Ausmac
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2018
- Messages
- 111
- Location
- Proserpine QLD
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 188, JD 2130, Fiat 650
Zebrafive I will have a look at that washer and see it it stays tight. The knee bushings seem to be in good condition there is minimal play in them. A bit up and down but side to side minimal. I am getting the machine shop to make up an interference bush to go between the two needle bearings when he line bores it as I can稚 see any other way the bearings would sit in the right spot in the top and bottom of the housing other than the press fit. A needle roller race is fairly thin and it wouldn稚 take much to upset them, although I got a new bell crank pin so it is all new and standard size.
Zebrafive
Super Member
I no longer remember if there was a gap between the needle bearing pair when I replaced them on my 2030. They are a press fit, I destroyed the old ones getting them out.
Make sure what the machine shop makes does not block the grease fitting.
The torque is also higher for the thicker washer/longer bolt. It went from 170lb-ft to 240lb-ft. I was told to use a bar (against the bolt head) and heavy hammer to strike the bolt, then retorque.
Make sure what the machine shop makes does not block the grease fitting.
The torque is also higher for the thicker washer/longer bolt. It went from 170lb-ft to 240lb-ft. I was told to use a bar (against the bolt head) and heavy hammer to strike the bolt, then retorque.
Zebrafive
Super Member
Thanks, that reminds me, I need to grease the 2030, mainly the steering and loader.
