John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[Spudland_Dave]

.....Then
it was back to the milling machine to align-bore new 7/8" holes.

Nice work!
One question...I know its all done now...BUT...Why not bore the holes to 1.125" and have some 1/8" steel bushings pressed in?
Would be alot stronger in the long haul by spreading the load on essentially a 1 1/8" pin thru the aluminum and wouldnt egg out as easily...and if they DID egg out, remove & replace the bushings....good as new!

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Doug, I'm not sure if I'm reading you right but, the double roll pin is actually 2 separate pins. An "inner" and "outer". If you drive the inner out with a smaller punch, the outer will come out pretty easily. I made my punch to fit the inner and also left a centering "bump" on it to keep it aligned while hammering.

I'm guessing the missing piece is something to take up slack at the end of a shaft maybe???

 

[pat32rf]

Now I see why the service manager didn't want to repair my axle lock when I took "Johnie" into him just before the warrantee was up. He said that they could not make it malfunction, even with one wheel jacked up, despite my complaints.
(Unknown to me, he also disappeared from the dealership a few weeks after this happened). I've since learned to use the brakes more when one wheel spins, keeping those brake shafts from seizing so its a mixed blessing....
Keep up the fantastic work. (I'm approaching 4000hrs on my 4300)

 

[dfkrug]

He said that they could not make it malfunction, even with one wheel jacked up, despite my complaints.

What was the problem you were seeing with your diff lock? Not working
at all or just would not stay engaged without constant pressure on the
pedal?

With 4000 hrs, how do your 3-pt hitch lower arm pivot holes look?

 

[dfkrug]

I'm not sure if I'm reading you right but, the double roll pin is actually 2 separate pins. An "inner" and "outer".

No, mine are all clearly one piece roll pins. Imagine a flat piece of steel
rolled up 2.25 revolutions, leaving a hole down the middle. The used ones
on my brake and diff lock levers had dirt in the centers. I also took out
7 of these kind of pins from the internal shifter shafts and the diff brake
shaft. All were reusable, but still not that easy to install/remove. I bought
3 of these new....look closely at the photo.

I don't know what you had in your machine...maybe yours had been
replaced before by a service tech and they had to resort to 2 conventional
roll pins in order not to have to buy the JD part.

 

[dfkrug]

Nice work!
One question...I know its all done now...BUT...Why not bore the holes to 1.125" and have some 1/8" steel bushings pressed in?
Would be alot stronger in the long haul by spreading the load on essentially a 1 1/8" pin thru the aluminum and wouldnt egg out as easily...and if they DID egg out, remove & replace the bushings....good as new!

I seriously considered doing it that way, or even something like the rather
bizzarre solution they used on the new 3x20 tractors (see photo). I even
have steel bushing stok here that would work.

I chose neither for two reasons. One was because I decided not to
bandaid what is essentially a bad design. I made it slightly better than stock. If I kept this tractor for the long term, then I would have
done more. The other reason is that there 2 failure modes
here: one is the holes get egged out from steel-on-Al wear. The other
is the casting is pulled out due to excessive tension. A steel pressed in
bushing would reduce the first problem, but increase the second one. With
a bushing, there is less Al material to pull apart, so it is weaker. My welder
agrees.

Anyway, I certainly spent enough on this.

 

[JANDG]

This is the 3032e rear shot,is it similar to the other 3000 & 4000 series tractors..? Mixture of AL & cast steel I think. the axle housing & final drive case is AL upper rockshaft area is cast steel, magnet sticks hard there,also mid-tunnel section is cast steel as magnet also sticks there. Is this how all the 3000 series & some 4000 series are done..?
great project you are doing & I am following with geat intrest
Joe

 

[dfkrug]

This is the 3032e rear shot,is it similar to the other 3000 & 4000 series tractors..? Mixture of AL & cast steel I think. the axle housing & final drive case is AL upper rockshaft area is cast steel, magnet sticks hard there,also mid-tunnel section is cast steel as magnet also sticks there. Is this how all the 3000 series & some 4000 series are done..?

That looks tons different from the old 4x00, old 4x10, and current 3x20
series. Is the 3032e a current model?

I posted earlier about the current 4x20 series....essentially NO aluminum
used in those big boys. Not is the same class as the older series that
started with 4.

Thx for posting, Joe.

 

[JANDG]

Yes, this is a new tractor started this year,I have destroyed a supposed heavy duty 5' BE chinese made box scraper with it & no breaks yet, I suspect the thru rod will let go 1st which would be good, a low $ part compared to housings. What do you see that is differant than the 3x20 series as far as engineered differances etc, I suspect this 3032E is all Yanmar drivetrain w/JD behind the actual entire tractor design . After your thread I see NO BH on any CUT in my future, I will just get a used commercial backhoe if I ever really want one. I am surprised at the actual gearing etc ,bieng in such good shape with such a hard life, nice to see that in a green machine. My uncle Phil is like you, he is a nuke engineer at Bangor sub base in WA & tears into trac-hoe's ,sawmills, dozer, etc,,like they are 2nd hand stuff & allways has.I envy the guy & look up to him in a way, he allways told me he is not a naturally smart guy, just very persistant at learning & working. I think engineering nuke military powerplants are his thing now & dang dairy cows*s* Great job on that once gonefor dead JD, I love greeen machines they are a family affair hear in WA & with my real farm family in Iowa, where JD gets freakin huge.

Joe

 

[dfkrug]

What do you see that is differant than the 3x20 series as far as engineered differances etc, I suspect this 3032E is all Yanmar drivetrain w/JD behind the actual entire tractor design . After your thread I see NO BH on any CUT in my future...

The 3x20 series is the deluxe CUT series from JD; yours and the 3005, 3038,
3203, etc, seem to be the in the budget series. You may be right that
there is more Yanmar content in your tractor than in the 3x20s. I hope
they hold up.

As for hoes on CUTs....I think it can be done without damage, as long as
you don't take shortcuts. Like under-designing your subframes! Or using
the 3-pt.