John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[westcliffe01]

Those are glacier or INA bearings.
Metal-polymer, Solid Polymer, Reinforced Plastic Composite, Bronze, Bimetallic Bearings
Very inexpensive, readily available. Typically they have a steel shell with a lining made of a bronze teflon composite. There are fancier varieties, but those are used on more expensive equipment like inboad prop shafts on fancy boats.

You may need to make yourself a tool for fitting them, easy to do on a lathe. You may be surprised how cheap a set will run. They do have a thin wall, which is why you can't successfully whack them in with a hammer. They cope well with low lubrication conditions, typical of what you find on offroad equipment. Cheap to replace, which is a big deal for anything that requires servicing.

 

[dfkrug]

Those are glacier or INA bearings.

I did not know what they were called....I have seen similar bearings,
but much smaller.

Anyway, they seem to be only splash-lubricated and the rockshaft is not
too sloppy in the bore, so I don't see a major downside to not changing
them. I am replacing all four O-rings, however.

 

[westcliffe01]

In Europe they have a lot of standardized mass produced components to choose from (cheap compared to making your own or custom). Includes tool steel bushings with grease passages etc. STRACK NORMA

 

[4shorts]

Holy smoke I just started looking through this thread and the first thing that came to mind was WOW!

Hard to believe that someone could cause a tractor to have so much damage you've taken on a Hugh job there sir. I've got a half an idea what your going through and I tip my lid to you. Thanks Matt for the heads up on this. Very interesting indeed. I'll be watching this one from now on. Good luck but I'm sure you'll have one heck of a nice machine when your done.

 

[dfkrug]

Since I am about to install the bellhousing over the HST, I thought
this was a good time to repair the loader support beams. As can be
seen in these pix, they are quite warn. One spot seems to be a full
millimeter in depth. Note that the feet of the loader mast is also
warn. You can see a bit of mushrooming at one of the contact points.
This part is cast, but probably only a bit harder than the mild steel of
the support beams. I have never had this type of loader before, but
I hear it gets quite sloppy with age and use.

 

[mattman]

I knew a guy who had one with the loader mount like you have. I agree that the loader becomes very sloppy after using it awhile. I was suprised at how lose the loader was on the square tubing. I feel they would have been better to have pinned the loader onto the square tubing instead of letting it rest on top of the tubing.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is how I repaired the FEL support beams.

First, I am doing this repair at this time in the Big Rebuild because the
beams are installed on the bellhousing....I saw no need to remove them
and they provide convenient support points for the tractor reassembly.

I decided to go with welding a bead or 2 in the areas of wear, then grinding
down to a planar surface a bit proud of the surrounding original material.

The official John Deere fix is to weld shims in all these areas. See this
thread for that procedure:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/152571-loose-430-loader-shim-fix.html
(good job, Chuck)

I am generally satisfied with my welds (stick and MIG), but I have much less
success with out-of-position (OP) welds, as in vertical or overhead. So,
I try to do all mine horizontally. I flipped the bell housing over for each weld.
You will have to remove the beams on an intact tractor to avoid OP welding.

For this job, I went with a 7014 rod and my Miller Thunderbolt DC welder.
For those not familiar with this rod, it is very low spatter and makes very
pretty beads on flat surfaces, such as butt welds. They work poorly (for me
anyway) at fillet welds. There is no hammering to remove flux....it just falls
off. In the 3rd photo, it came off all in one piece. Like the common 7018
rods, this rod is a 70,000 psi steel.

 

[mjncad]

My 4200 turned 500-hours this weekend. My 420 loader has been getting a bit sloppy the last 25-hours or so; but I'm not ready to do the shim/weld-bead repair just yet.

However the manual calls for a valve adjustment at 500-hours. The engine sounds and works fine; but I think I'll read the shop manual in greater detail to see if this is something I can tackle myself. I have a hunch the dealer will charge $500+ by the time they pick it up, do the work and return it to me. I have better things to do with the money; but will spend it if I don't feel I can do the job.

 

[Danno1]

Here are the roll pins that Deere uses in some places. They are a double-
wound single piece of spring steel. I have shown the new one and the old
one. The latter gets dirt in the center, making it look solid. Add a bit of
rust and this baby is very tough to remove (and install). Some roll pins used
are the conventional type, like the one on the right.

Can anyone identify the other part in the photo? I found it in the bottom of
the final drive gearcase. It is a cylinder that is clearly punched out of a
plate of steel, then precision ground to be exactly 1/8" thick.

Those are spiral roll pins. SPIROL is one trade name. They're not as common as the other roll pins but are available. You can get them fr McMaster-Carr.


.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is the actual "rockshaft", as Deere calls it.

It is quite hefty, as is the push rod and arm. The push rod fits loosely
inside the bottom of the piston....that is why only the weight on the
three point keeps it from lifting.

Since the shaft's splines are exposed to the elements, you get a bit
of rust, which explains the resitance to removal. My retaining washers
are missing (this tractor was a spare parts donor), so I can't fully assemble
the rockshaft system until I buy (or make) replacements.