John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[dfkrug]

Thanks for the tip as removing the muffler looks a lot easier than getting the fuel tank out of there.

Since the right-hand 2 (of 4) nuts holding the muffler on are hard to get at,
you might just take the manifold off with the muffler. It is a straight shot
at the exh manifold bolts.

I am now at the stage of re-stringing my wiring harness. Everything looks
so clean without those pesky wires in there!

 

[Johndeere3720]

This thread gets better and better after every update. I do believe that it would be cleaner without the wires. Do you have any pictures of the tractor being put back together?

 

[dfkrug]

Do you have any pictures of the tractor being put back together?

I have heaps of pix....they are coming.

Now, maybe one of you other JD owners can help me with this: I have
a new side panel and metal screen here. There is a foam pad that is used
for sound deadening, with an adhesive back. It is not shown in the parts
book. The question is does it go on the inside of the green panel, or the
inside of the screen? The screen attaches to the panel. I went to look
at an intact 4300 today and it did not have ANY pad.

 

[Wayne_H]

That foam is molded to go on the green plastic, it does not touch the black screen. Hope this helps.

Wayne

 

[dfkrug]

That foam is molded to go on the green plastic, it does not touch the black screen. Hope this helps.

So your 4400 does not have the pad either? How can you tell if it goes
on the inside of the panel, stuck to the plastic, or on the inside of the
screen? The shape of the pad follows the same contour of the panel and
the one for the left side panel is considerably smaller. This may be an
upgrade/retrofit for noise reduction, or to cut down on the panel rattling.

Your photo does show me that I should probably also buy the strip
of foam on your panel. The unlabeled strip of foam in my above photo
actually goes behind the grille.

 

[Wayne_H]

Yea, my 4400 does not have that large pad, just the formed (cut probably) strip that does not touch the black screen. My guess would be that the strip is for air flow. Both L and R sides of mine are the same, and I have had the tractor since new, so I am sure it never had them on it.

regards

Wayne

 

[Kubota 2350]

I read all 25 pages of the thread in one sitting.
Thing I want to know, does it run, and is all well with this project?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

The strip seals off the area in front of the radiator to force air thru the black grills in the front and side panels. It does work when cutting tall grass with seeds and such.

This is the pre-screen area. I'll go look at my 4310 to see if it has the flat piece. I don't think it does.

 

[dfkrug]

I'll go look at my 4310 to see if it has the flat piece. I don't think it does.

If your later machine does not have the larger pad, then it likely IS a
retrofit. If I stick my pad on the inside of the green panel, then I can
see the pad pushes pretty snugly up against all those engine parts.

Status update:
I am still a few weeks away from starting the tractor as I am missing
a number of small parts, which I have been collecting for one "final" parts
order to my pals in Illinois. That should be tomorrow.

I am also working on getting the right hydraulic fittings and making some
brackets for a "3rd SCV" control, and a "Power Beyond" connection for
a backhoe attachment.

The wiring harness is on hold due to the need for new rubber isolators
to mount the steering column frame. The fuse panel mounts inside that
frame, so the wiring will have to wait. Two steps fwd, one step back.

 

[dfkrug]

Now I am going to revisit my AUX valve, the so-called triple SCV that
comes with most of these tractors. I am going to do some refurbishment
of the linkages. Tight linkages are very important in these older style
joystick valves...who wants a joystick that feels like a wet noodle? After
800-1000 hours, they can sure get sloppy. The newer cable-controlled
valves are really slick.

In the first photo, my valve is at the top. I am going to replace both
joystick tie rods as they are only $13 each, and new lever bushings, too.
The PTO lever and mounting bracket, which attaches to the top of the
valve were missing from this tractor. So those are new. I bought the
3rd SCV lever from JD, but not the OEM cable, bracket, or contol lever.
I plan to make my own setup for that. My camera is one of the 2 I use
for these pix. I usually use the L18 on a tripod and in 1MB mode for
great quality pix that I crop, enhance, and shrink. You don't need
an expensive camera for decent uploads.

After taking everything apart (#2), I see that the main lever pivot (B) is OK,
but the joystick pivot (A) is not acceptable. It has been "repaired" as you
can see. This will mean another holdup while I order those parts.

Next the bushings. These are fairly thin and interference fit into the
levers. After pressing the old ones out, photo #3 shows me pressing the
new ones in. I am using a chunk of aluminum to protect them. You can't
just tap these in with a hammer.

And the last photo shows the first one on the left. One down, one to go.