Just a reminder for those with septic systems

   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #81  
You can get a pretty good idea simply by observing your inside waste plumbing. I don't think I've seen one that didn't leave the house at a straight line to the tank (no sense getting a "hang-up" before it gets to the tank). Length from the house...if you have a clean-out in the house (or maybe even a floor drain close to the exit which I guess satisfies code) a garden hose or drain snake or even a piece of stiff wire can be run through the pipe to tell you the length to the tank (protect your floors of course and maybe wear gloves). From there you should have a good idea of location. Get a sharp stick or something and start probing in that area. You have no idea how deep it is so it may take awhile.

On a slab, no known cleanouts.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #82  
On a slab, no known cleanouts.

While you are at the health department ask if they know if the codes require a clean out between the house and septic tank. Also ask if they know how long that has been in code if it is in the code.

You might be able to guess the location of the tank by looking at the location of the sinks, toilets, tubs, drains, etc, in the house and guestimating where the main house drain would be best located.

Our house is on a slab and we have a clean out between the house and tank. If I had not put the clean out in a box, said clean out would be buried. :shocked: But since I filled in around the septic tank I did not bury the clean out. :D:thumbsup:

Snow over my tank or septic field does NOT melt any faster than near by ground. My guess is that our freeze line is only about 4-6 inches and the tank is 18-24 inches below grade. Not sure why the field does not melt first.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #83  
While you are at the health department ask if they know if the codes require a clean out between the house and septic tank. Also ask if they know how long that has been in code if it is in the code.

You might be able to guess the location of the tank by looking at the location of the sinks, toilets, tubs, drains, etc, in the house and guestimating where the main house drain would be best located.

Our house is on a slab and we have a clean out between the house and tank. If I had not put the clean out in a box, said clean out would be buried. :shocked: But since I filled in around the septic tank I did not bury the clean out. :D:thumbsup:

Snow over my tank or septic field does NOT melt any faster than near by ground. My guess is that our freeze line is only about 4-6 inches and the tank is 18-24 inches below grade. Not sure why the field does not melt first.

Later,
Dan
DO NOT raise any questions about codes that might incriminate you! Some of these bureaucrats will jump on it and make you correct it. As for the snow-melt, it all depends on the depth of the tank. If shallow, the area above it will melt faster. I think newer codes now require risers to bring the lid close to grade but I owned a house that didn't have one (I hated getting it pumped...very deep hole). Of course I'm talking about northern climates...not so sure about Tennessee.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #84  
FTG, many drain cleaner companys now have radio beacons that they feed down a drain line and "read" with a detector above the surface. They are quite accurate regarding both line location and depth. Probably wouldn't cost more than $100.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #85  
Find the pipe coming out of the house and go 10 ft and probe .
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #86  
I guess when my grandpa built this place he did a good job, even with a 2nd house connected in the 70's we have never had a pump out here. Never had any backups either. To be honest, I'm the sole survivor and have no clue where the tank is, only vaguely remember where they dug and piped into the pipe that was already in the ground for the new house.

Should I care?
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #87  
I.

Should I care?

Tough one. If it never acts up, you won't need to. If it does, the cleaner probably knows tricks. Though it is nice to have a plan before poop backs up.

Might be some metal, in it and metal dectector might help. Driving rod down works with old concrete ones, some day when you are really bored.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #88  
I guess when my grandpa built this place he did a good job, even with a 2nd house connected in the 70's we have never had a pump out here. Never had any backups either. To be honest, I'm the sole survivor and have no clue where the tank is, only vaguely remember where they dug and piped into the pipe that was already in the ground for the new house.

Should I care?
Probably not a bad idea to at least check your tank. Bacteria will breakdown a lot of the solids but not all. Speaking from experience I can tell you that if there is a problem you want it outside and not inside. My first house had cast iron drain fields...that developed what they call "iron fungus" that slowly "chokes" the pipe. Our new house has pvc but we had "residents" that apparently used a roll of tp every time they "wiped". That was when we learned to never use Charmin "Super-strength"...it caught-up on the inlet baffle and the law of "path of least resistance" came into play.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #89  
He is working on changing it. But I am doubtful anything will change.

Did a quick look at my 2016 return last night, with Trumps new proposal I will take a beating if they eliminate itemized deductions. My largest deduction is medical insurance and medical costs, my deductions last year were a lot more than the $24k he is proposing. I bet most retired folks are going to be in the same boat. So will almost anybody with employer paid medical insurance, they are going to count that as income.
The rich will get a lot richer and the rest of us will get to pay more so they can.:mad:
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #90  
All I got is mortgage a charity. I use an HSA to cover medical expenses, which is before tax money, and my high deductible, since Obama. If you manage yur HSA you never would deduct.

For me, my HSA covers my deductible, and I got enough for my out of pocket.


I am all for simplyfing things. I like home mortgage. But it isn't fair to people not owning a house. I would like to see it sunsetted, and the deductions to everyone. Especially since someday I want to pay mine off.


So for me it would help alot.

I suspect some people have decided it won't help, if they dropped $5k in the mailbox, and a box of cigars. Plus I don't most people know more than lower us from the most expensive country in the world for coporate taxes.


Maybe they should go on Youtube and have Obama tell them how we are the highest corporate tax rate.

I hope it happens, could be a big boom time for young people. Buisness coming back, and baby boomers retiring.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #91  
My largest deduction is medical insurance and medical costs, my deductions last year were a lot more than the $24k he is proposing. :

What is your max out of pocket and deductible? Though I realize you can deduct anything medical related. Can sue flex or HSA for asprin and bandaids too.


Personally I'd like to see that stuff go tax free like they do groceries in my state.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #92  
What is your max out of pocket and deductible? Though I realize you can deduct anything medical related. Can sue flex or HSA for asprin and bandaids too.


Personally I'd like to see that stuff go tax free like they do groceries in my state.

Deductible is $250/per person, max pop, $2000/$4000 max family, prescription $100/300 tier 2 and 3, $2000 non-generic, premiums $1250/month.
Prescription drug costs are exempt from sales tax here.
Wife has chronic autoimmune disease, our medical costs are pretty high, won't drop for a couple of more years when I hit 65.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #93  
Tough one. If it never acts up, you won't need to. If it does, the cleaner probably knows tricks. Though it is nice to have a plan before poop backs up.

Might be some metal, in it and metal dectector might help. Driving rod down works with old concrete ones, some day when you are really bored.

Place is 135 years old, I'm think I'm gonna stick my head in the sand and not worry. Then again. it might be a pipe straight to the creek for all I know. I do know that I've never seen anything that was flushed in that creek, but I've only lived here 60 years, and trust me when I tell you that I know every rock and branch in that creek all the way to the river. That creek goes through an old dishwashers yard too, he is known as Randy Travis these days, even in our darkest hours of drunkedness he never once mentioned a tampon or rubber floating by.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #94  
The septic is what from the 50s? Seems that was not an uncommon time for farms to get rid of outhouses. I doubt he had indoor plumbing 135 years ago.

My guess is, if it is original, is is not a septic, but something else. Maybe someone with more experience with that old of house can say.

But I'd probably let the sleeping dog lie. But someday it could wake, and need to do something Things change out there. Trees grow.


I would not want to stir the pot with the county.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #95  
never once mentioned a tampon or rubber floating by.

That would be because you are smart enough not to flush those into a septic, I hope. Otherwise, I suspect it is going to an alternative place.


Was there an old fashion well, big hole?
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #96  
DO NOT raise any questions about codes that might incriminate you! Some of these bureaucrats will jump on it and make you correct it...

Asking questions to the county ABOUT the code is not going to get him in trouble. They only way the inspector would pay a visit if one ran their mouth and starting yapping about all of the problems that they had with the system. Answering questions about the code is partly why we pay taxes. Some of the best information I ever got about property and what was happening in my county happened when I went to various county government offices, include the health department, and asked some simple, open ended questions.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #97  
Asking questions to the county ABOUT the code is not going to get him in trouble. They only way the inspector would pay a visit if one ran their mouth and starting yapping about all of the problems that they had with the system. Answering questions about the code is partly why we pay taxes. Some of the best information I ever got about property and what was happening in my county happened when I went to various county government offices, include the health department, and asked some simple, open ended questions.

Later,
Dan
Ever here of "I'm asking for a friend"? Granted many public servants are there to help...speaking from experience a few are not and like to exert power. Approach with care...
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #98  
Do you want the government looking back for your permit? I would definitely worry in liberal states.

They have forced people to put septic in, when all they had was an out house.

You can't have pressurized water and no septic, in some places.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #99  
In our area most pumpers charge $250 or more. I charge $190 to $200. I don't use any help, saving on insurance and taxes. I am also a mechanic and I do all my own maintaince and work. Yes septic tanks need to be pumped. A lot depends on how you take care of it. Years ago we didn't use near as much water, (taking showers) and a lot of our clothes were made out of cotton which would deteriorate and brake down in the septic. Now days we have a lot of synthetic fabrics and they don't brake down. They float out to your drain field and the microbes cant eat them. After years of abuse your drain field turns in to muck and cannot absorb the water. I tell my customers to not flush any thing down the toilet except toilet paper unless they have eaten it first. Drain cleaners, mouth wash, anti bacterial soaps, Clorox, Lysol, certain medications and other things kill the bacteria in your tank. During the 60 and 70's developers went out in the suburbs and had land plotted into 100ft plots. No sewer lines telling home buyers that the big pipe would come later. (it never came and never will) Many or most of the tanks had no baffles. Most were buried and the home owner had no idea where the lids were. So out of sight, out of mind. I am seeing lots of the fail now. I am pumping a few of them every 30 days. I don't know what they are going to do. Health dept. says there is not enough yard to put in another system. I pumped one the other day that was 30 years old, never pumped. Leach field I am sure is plugged. I hate govt. regulations and intruding. When I first started out, you paid one fee to the county. You could install, repair and pump on one license. Now you must have three licenses, bonds, certification. So I don't do any repairs or installation any more as I don't have time and stay too busy pumping. A lot of contractors have gotten out of the installation business. Because of the liability. County mandates how you install it them if it fails you are on the hook. A small business that I service had to have a upgrade septic system. They followed the rules and had a system installed as to their specs. This system failed shortly after being put into service. I had to pump it once a week, at $360. (considered commercial) I agree with some of the rules, making people put risers on their system. If they don't know where their tank is, they wont have it pumped. Remember your septic system is a investment. When it quits working and sewage is backing up, that $30k boat or car wont seem too important at the time. A properly installed system if maintained can last many years. Take care you your system, Have it pumped as needed.
 
   / Just a reminder for those with septic systems #100  
In our area most pumpers charge $250 or more. I charge $190 to $200. I don't use any help, saving on insurance and taxes. I am also a mechanic and I do all my own maintaince and work. Yes septic tanks need to be pumped. A lot depends on how you take care of it. Years ago we didn't use near as much water, (taking showers) and a lot of our clothes were made out of cotton which would deteriorate and brake down in the septic. Now days we have a lot of synthetic fabrics and they don't brake down. They float out to your drain field and the microbes cant eat them. After years of abuse your drain field turns in to muck and cannot absorb the water. I tell my customers to not flush any thing down the toilet except toilet paper unless they have eaten it first. Drain cleaners, mouth wash, anti bacterial soaps, Clorox, Lysol, certain medications and other things kill the bacteria in your tank. During the 60 and 70's developers went out in the suburbs and had land plotted into 100ft plots. No sewer lines telling home buyers that the big pipe would come later. (it never came and never will) Many or most of the tanks had no baffles. Most were buried and the home owner had no idea where the lids were. So out of sight, out of mind. I am seeing lots of the fail now. I am pumping a few of them every 30 days. I don't know what they are going to do. Health dept. says there is not enough yard to put in another system. I pumped one the other day that was 30 years old, never pumped. Leach field I am sure is plugged. I hate govt. regulations and intruding. When I first started out, you paid one fee to the county. You could install, repair and pump on one license. Now you must have three licenses, bonds, certification. So I don't do any repairs or installation any more as I don't have time and stay too busy pumping. A lot of contractors have gotten out of the installation business. Because of the liability. County mandates how you install it them if it fails you are on the hook. A small business that I service had to have a upgrade septic system. They followed the rules and had a system installed as to their specs. This system failed shortly after being put into service. I had to pump it once a week, at $360. (considered commercial) I agree with some of the rules, making people put risers on their system. If they don't know where their tank is, they wont have it pumped. Remember your septic system is a investment. When it quits working and sewage is backing up, that $30k boat or car wont seem too important at the time. A properly installed system if maintained can last many years. Take care you your system, Have it pumped as needed.

My Clorox, and soaps go straight from the clothes washer to the grass. I should do the same with the dishwasher, but it does not get much use.
Around here a new septic system goes for $12,000 +
Once upon a time I was a Civil engineer.
I replaced my own septic system, for $800, without permit, or inspection, about 31 years ago.
1000 heavy top tank (can drive over), + a distribution box + a leaching pit surrounded with washed stone.
My soil is pure sand,..... down to forever.
Just that one task paid for my old backhoe. It was 16 years old then, but is 47 years old now, and has 1850 hours. Still works like a charm.
A hoe is a wonderful/very useful toy, that I absolutely would not want to be without.
 

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