Just another junk chainsaw

[xyz123]

You ever did a carb adjustment on your plastic poulan? They come super lean and hard to start even new IMHO.

I bought a 50cc 5020 plastic one in 2013 to test out. Wouldnt stay running out of box. Quick carb adjustments and was one of the easiest saws to start.

Also is it a newer strato plastic poulan? If so those carbs are 50/50. They go bad. Cheaper to buy new carb for 20 if that is the issue.

Dont use those oem line or clear line junk. Min is tygon 4040 and make sure it is marked. Lot of aftermarket junk line out there sold as that. I like oem echo black line myself.

I'm betting you got the green or the yellow 4218 or 3314 strato. With tuning and new lines they are super easy to start.

Also they dont use common tuning on these on the carb H and L.

 

[kenmac]

It's the green one. plastic. I haven't checked compression or not sure what it should be.
I have adjusted the H-L (I believe) in the past.

(''Also they dont use common tuning on these on the carb H and L.'')
Are you saying I can't tune he carb with these screws ?

I probably haven't cranked it in about 6 mo. Went to crank it and pulled , pulled,pulled. Gave up and grabbed the 55.

Only thing I hate about the old 55 rancher is. It has so much compression, it's really difficult to pull. Almost have to stand on the thing just to pull the start cord !
I can pull the 372 easier than this 55.
I don't know why they didn't put a decompression button on that thing !

I get a chance, I'll fool with the pukelan and see what I can come up with.
Like you said, probably the sorry carb. I'll look for one before I trash it. But I'm not going to put much $$ into it. I'll buy a cheap battery operated Ryobi for the small stuff.

Thanks for your response

 

[xyz123]

It's the green one. plastic. I haven't checked compression or not sure what it should be.
I have adjusted the H-L (I believe) in the past.

(''Also they dont use common tuning on these on the carb H and L.'')
Are you saying I can't tune he carb with these screws ?

I probably haven't cranked it in about 6 mo. Went to crank it and pulled , pulled,pulled. Gave up and grabbed the 55.

Only thing I hate about the old 55 rancher is. It has so much compression, it's really difficult to pull. Almost have to stand on the thing just to pull the start cord !
I can pull the 372 easier than this 55.
I don't know why they didn't put a decompression button on that thing !

I get a chance, I'll fool with the pukelan and see what I can come up with.
Like you said, probably the sorry carb. I'll look for one before I trash it. But I'm not going to put much $$ into it. I'll buy a cheap battery operated Ryobi for the small stuff.

Thanks for your response

If you got the old oem lines they will separate inside and let fines in to clog your screen. I pulled this one out more to show inner lining.

Good psi on these pull 165psi. I have had scuffed one that pulled 150psi with ring stuck a hair.

On these I start at 2 turns out on each L and H

Last 2 I did were.
L 2 and H 1.75 used
L 1.75 and H 1.6ish on new carb

 

[kenmac]

If you got the old oem lines they will separate inside and let fines in to clog your screen. I pulled this one out more to show inner lining.

Good psi on these pull 165psi. I have had scuffed one that pulled 150psi with ring stuck a hair.

On these I start at 2 turns out on each L and H

Last 2 I did were.
L 2 and H 1.75 used
L 1.75 and H 1.6ish on new carb

View attachment 732216View attachment 732217

 

[kenmac]

Well, I went to the garage today and checked it out. I thought the fuel lines were good.
But when I took it apart, the fuel lines fell apart.
This is the green ''wild thing''

While trying to replace the fuel lines the little nylon connector that's pressed into the plastic housing connecting the fuel line from the carb to the fuel line to the tank popped out.

This little nylon connector appears to seal the fuel from the tank to the body .

Due to it's location, I can't get the little connector back in the case.
So I'll just junk this wild thing. It was about a $100.00 saw several years ago.

I appreciate your suggestions.

 

[Lnk]

Well, I went to the garage today and checked it out. I thought the fuel lines were good.
But when I took it apart, the fuel lines fell apart.
This is the green ''wild thing''

While trying to replace the fuel lines the little nylon connector that's pressed into the plastic housing connecting the fuel line from the carb to the fuel line to the tank popped out.

This little nylon connector appears to seal the fuel from the tank to the body .

Due to it's location, I can't get the little connector back in the case.
So I'll just junk this wild thing. It was about a $100.00 saw several years ago.

I appreciate your suggestions.

Drill the hole for the fuel line a little smaller than the tygon line, cut line at an angle so you can feed it through the hole. Pull line through hole with needle nose pliers. No more fitting required. Do this with return line too. There are people that want wild things for build offs. Don't throw it out.

 

[kenmac]

Drill the hole for the fuel line a little smaller than the tygon line, cut line at an angle so you can feed it through the hole. Pull line through hole with needle nose pliers. No more fitting required. Do this with return line too. There are people that want wild things for build offs. Don't throw it out.

Due to the location, it's difficult to get to that little hole. It's kinda below the engine.
I'll look back at it later and see if I can do anything with it. If not, it's toast ! LOL

 

[Lnk]

Due to the location, it's difficult to get to that little hole. It's kinda below the engine.
I'll look back at it later and see if I can do anything with it. If not, it's toast ! LOL

Those little clamps doctors use are the bomb. Can reach into just about any gap to grab something like a line. Worth having for many uses.

 

[kenmac]

Those little clamps doctors use are the bomb. Can reach into just about any gap to grab something like a line. Worth having for many uses.

I was talking about drilling it out. May not have to drill out. The fuel line is of the smaller size.
You talking about hemostats ? LOL. I have some of those from back in my paramedic days 1980's lol. Never though about using them in the shop though.

About 35 here today cold in the shop. I'll give it another shot if it warms up this weekend.
Only one hose coming from the tank .
From fuel tank to primer bulb, from primer bulb to cab.

 

[Lnk]

I was talking about drilling it out. May not have to drill out. The fuel line is of the smaller size.
You talking about hemostats ? LOL. I have some of those from back in my paramedic days 1980's lol. Never though about using them in the shop though.

About 35 here today cold in the shop. I'll give it another shot if it warms up this weekend.
Only one hose coming from the tank .
From fuel tank to primer bulb, from primer bulb to cab.

Yeah, those things. Strange you have a primer bulb, but only a carb supply line and not a return line. The return line is usually smaller. Hemostats, have to remember that name. Double check that you only have one line, I have been known to be wrong, ask my wife! Lol