Just another junk chainsaw

   / Just another junk chainsaw #541  
It's a big job.

The cylinder will need to be pulled off so they can split the cases and replace the clutch side. There's a number of small things that need to be pulled off to remove the cylinder and split the cases (muffler, gas tank/handle, carb, etc). Stihl has a factory puller that splits the cases from that side but it bolts to the bar studs, so they'd have to drill out and replace the broken one first. Three hours sounds reasonable. It'd take me longer but I'm a home mechanic not a pro.

While it's apart have them inspect and measure the piston and cylinder and check the main bearings for wear. I'd have the rings and crank seals replaced at a minimum. If they balk at measuring the piston just have them put in a new piston and wrist pin bearing and clrclips. It's too bad about the damage but if the mechanic is good and you're willing to throw a few more $$ at it you'll have a saw that'll last for a long time.
Ouch! That almost sounds like new saw dollars. So much for repairable pro saws?

On the other hand I guess I could run it without the dogs and just fix the stud and tensioner.
 
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   / Just another junk chainsaw #542  
Well I had a 24 inch diameter log roll onto my Stihl MS441. The bar was propped on a smaller log and the larger log jackknifed the saw. The top dog connection snapped as well as the rear stud and chain tensioner post. I checked with two Stihl dealers and the clutch half of the housing was $249 (list) at one dealer and $183 at another. The second one spun his screen for me to see the price. The first said 3 hours shop time, the second (counter intake guy) guessed an hour but his mechanic (on vacation) has the say on that. The first said the entire saw needs to come apart, the second said his mechanic would have to say. I left the saw with the second guy. Any insight into how much of a job this is to repair? The saw is 12 years old but runs excellent and I do not really want to pay $1000+ on a new big saw. Any opinions are appreciated. The saw starts and runs fine, the crack is on the top ear of the housing where the dogs attach.
View attachment 590742. View attachment 590743

How much was their total price? I’d be inclined not to fix it if it’s over half of new price.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #543  
How much was their total price? I’d be inclined not to fix it if it’s over half of new price.

First place was approx $700 (verbal), second place I have to wait for the Mech to come back from vacation. If in the same range I would think about waiting for the MS 462 to be available. I think that is soon? Slays me to have such a minor break be so expensive. The saw runs fine.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #544  
I wouldn’t spend $700 fixing a $1000 saw. Especially considering it’s worth something to someone with a different failure. That saw would be a hard sale at $700 in operable condition.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #545  
The 462s are available in some US markets now.

Shop time at that one shop must be around $133/hr. That'd be high even for Silicon Valley. Maybe they're figuring on needing to replace other parts and included that in the estimate so it wouldn't come as a surprise later. Hopefully the other shop will be more reasonable.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #546  
The 462s are available in some US markets now.

Shop time at that one shop must be around $133/hr. That'd be high even for Silicon Valley. Maybe they're figuring on needing to replace other parts and included that in the estimate so it wouldn't come as a surprise later. Hopefully the other shop will be more reasonable.
The first shop said $95 an hour but we have 10% sales tax and there would also be incidentals. The second shop was backed up and I do not know when I will get their estimate. Since the saw runs and if it is too much money I am thinking of just running it without dogs. I think the crankcase housing is structurally intact. At least I did not notice anything wrong when I started the saw up. The log did not roll onto the powerhead itself. It stopped on the bar, the top dog and the black chain brake handle. I do not use the dogs much, some people do. The bottom bolt for the dogs is intact.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#547  
Got to love getting paid to test tune the big boys after a carb rebuild. 41"
He left smiling.
Couldnt believe how far off the low side was from the factory with them dang epa white plastic stops on it. H was about right. Good to go now.

Hate the 41" ES bar. Flips back forth like a wet noodle. The 44" GB and Cannon bars dont do that crap. I thought something was wrong with his crankcase side.

s088vvvv.jpgs088vvv.jpgs088vv.jpgs088z.jpg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#548  
Rode hard and put up wet came in. Hard to start, broken brake band, wont shut off, wore through wires, broken heat shield with half missing, etc etc.

s036x.jpgs036xxxxx.jpgs036xxxx.jpgs036xxxxxxx.jpgs036xxx.jpgs036xx.jpg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #549  
Looks like the guy never cleaned it... Ever. I'll admit that I don't clean mine every use, but I've never seen mine packed that well with oily debris. I guess I'm not the laziest SOB out there after all
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#550  
He told me sorry but he tried to air it off but it didnt work. I was like I dont care. Its a chainsaw dont win nothing for being pretty.
But does make it a pita to even work on. Just to get to fasteners had to dig them out then picks to clean out the heads.
 

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