Just replaced a garage door and have some odd issue's.

[lzicc]

The door is an insulate steel door. It is 7' x 16'. I purchased the door with a low headroom kit with the dual tracks. If you look at the pictures, the top panel with the windows bows down on the ends if that makes sense. When the door goes back down, it fits back in, but it looks like that could be an issue down the road.

Also, the cable that is attached to the torsion rod rubs on the track. I can't seem to adjust it any way for it to clear the track. See third picture.

I am going to call Amarr support next week, but I don't know if they can do much or not. They usually don't like to deal with dyi.

 

[RNeumann]

I’ve never seen a door that didn’t have hinges between each panel. It looks their is holes to mount them- where are they?

 

[Xfaxman]

Step back a little and take pictures of the hinges.

Needs a roller on each side.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Sure looks like something is missing there. Is there part of a missing hinge not attached to the pictured roller. Or whole hinge missing ?

Would be nice to know what the other side looked like. Is that 2nd track and what ever is in it causing the offset ? Or should the wheel in the picture be in the second track ?

Just tossing out ideas

 

[Stimw]

The drum needs to be moved out for the cable to clear the track.
The double track/top closing doors are really tricky on some units.
I have worked on hundreds of semi trailer and dock doors and they all have their own trouble areas.
Especially after they wear from a lot of use.
Just imagine a semi trailer bouncing down the road for many thousands of miles.

 

[lzicc]

I was able to trim the front of the track to clear the cable. I could really move the drum either way that would actually work. It is a double track system for the low headroom. Just the top wheel goes in the upper track and the other wheels follow the bottom track. I followed the directions and there is no hinges on the outer part of the door. Here are more pictures of the whole door.

 

[kirkawilson]

Also, after a few years of using a new 16' door, the panels will start bowing in the middle and you will need to add some intermediate 'ribs' like the ones at the top and bottom. Might consider adding them now to avoid the hassle.

 

[lzicc]

Here is another pic with the door fully open. The second panel is doing the same thing, just not as bad.

 

[lzicc]

I did think about that. It wouldn't hurt. That would really stiffen the door nicely.

Also, after a few years of using a new 16' door, the panels will start bowing in the middle and you will need to add some intermediate 'ribs' like the ones at the top and bottom. Might consider adding them now to avoid the hassle.

 

[murph1]

Did this door come as a kit? You should have a hinge that holds the roller on each end and the cable pulleys needs to be on the inside of the rails.

 

[lzicc]

It did come with a kit. There was nothing in the directions for the ends other than the fixed roller holder.

 

[murph1]

Google up garage door install then click on images

 

[lzicc]

I figured it out and boy do I feel stupid. After reading these post, I went to check the extra hardware. I know I am going to have some since I got the low headroom kit which came with more hardware. There were 6 brackets that link each panel together. See the pictures. The directions never even mentioned these brackets. My wife read the directions as I was putting the door up and I even looked after the fact.

I appreciated every ones help with this. Every time I have an issue that I can't seem to solve, I post it on this forum and you people always get me pointed in the right direction. Thanks!!!

 

[Redlands Okie]

Thanks for the info on the fix.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup:

Our 16' insulated door had a stiffener on every panel:

 

[2458n]

End of door hinges will have numbers stamped on them. 1 is the top of bottom section . 2 is the top of 2nd section. 3 is top of 3 rd section. All hinges in the field of the door are Number 1. Make sure your struts are on the right panels. You can not add struts with out changing the springs which are matched to the door by 10lb increments. Most doors do not have the extra parts to aid in your confusion. Nice door but you are lucky to not have bent panels.

 

[2458n]

:thumbsup:

Our 16' insulated door had a stiffener on every panel:

View attachment 528968

View attachment 528969

View attachment 528970

Struts cost more money and the heavier springs cost also. Price sells doors.

 

[RNeumann]

I figured it out and boy do I feel stupid. After reading these post, I went to check the extra hardware. I know I am going to have some since I got the low headroom kit which came with more hardware. There were 6 brackets that link each panel together. See the pictures. The directions never even mentioned these brackets. My wife read the directions as I was putting the door up and I even looked after the fact.

I appreciated every ones help with this. Every time I have an issue that I can't seem to solve, I post it on this forum and you people always get me pointed in the right direction. Thanks!!!

View attachment 528961View attachment 528962

I’m not the only one who would be up **it creek without my wife. Glad it’s an easy fix. Btw all of the standard sized 16’ insulated doors I’ve had don’t have extra ribs in the middle. Yours may need them at some point- but I haven’t seen them.

 

[fried1765]

I’m not the only one who would be up **it creek without my wife. Glad it’s an easy fix. Btw all of the standard sized 16’ insulated doors I’ve had don’t have extra ribs in the middle. Yours may need them at some point- but I haven’t seen them.

One rib/stiffener for EACH panel in Florida.

 

[RNeumann]

Makes sense in that belt! Keeping Simpson in business too!!