KIOTI CK2610 fluid advice

[paulsharvey]

"Religion, politics, and oil weight/brand.
Those are the things you should never talk about with anyone but your very closest friends. As it always leads to a fight."

Don't forget welder brands.... any of that discussion garrantees a hate crime within 5 replies!

 

[ODZD]

Religion, politics, and oil weight/brand.
Those are the things you should never talk about with anyone but your very closest friends. As it always leads to a fight.

With that being said, I have to respectfully disagree about switching motor oil brands. Thats an old wives tale. Just like switching from dino to synthetic or vice versa shouldn't be done. Unless its an old school engine without an oil filter, pick the right weight for your climate (see the manual) and buy any quality brand. You'll never go wrong. (And if the manual says use full synthetic, do that too.)

Now if you were talking about hydraulic fluid, I retract my statement as my knowledge there is limited.

I'm In South Western PA, so pretty neutral climate, no major winters or scorching hot summers.. After looking at the API rating and temperature charts, I think I'm good. Only confusion is the manual I have says "Engine Oil: tier 2 or 3 - API CH grade or above Tier 4 API CJ grade above. Oil Viscosity: SAE 10W30, 10W40, 15W40."
Not too sure what tier I fall into but I figured the Rotella T5 is API rated for API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 or CH-4

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Well, I watch very little You Tube, but "The Motor Oil Geek" sure seems to have more than enough credentials and knows what he's talking about.

If he recommends against it, that's good enough for me. And I'd guess that mixing them mattered much less in the old wives tales days, when the oils were far less specialized and with fewer additives.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Well, I watch very little You Tube, but "The Motor Oil Geek" sure seems to have more than enough credentials and knows what he's talking about.

If he recommends against it, that's good enough for me. And I'd guess that mixing them mattered much less in the old wives tales days, when the oils were far less specialized and with fewer additives.

But the little bit of oil left over after an oil change is fine.

What he's mostly against is using additives or mixing different brands, or versions in the the same brands, in whole amounts. Like mixing in 2 quarts of High Mileage with the rest being Long Life. They have two completely different additive packages.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

But the little bit of oil left over after an oil change is fine.

What he's mostly against is using additives or mixing different brands, or versions in the the same brands, in whole amounts. Like mixing in 2 quarts of High Mileage with the rest being Long Life. They have two completely different additive packages.

Not all engines drain as completely as others, so the results can vary.

I just can't see switching brands unless it's necessary for some reason.

 

[ratflinger]

Not all engines drain as completely as others, so the results can vary.

I just can't see switching brands unless it's necessary for some reason.

Except for my '93 Corvette I've never had any idea what oil the manufacturer loaded into the vehicle ('93 had Mobile1 stickers on it). So basically the OEMs completely negate your argument. They want you to use a specific API minimum and then certain weights, based upon climate and tractoring style.

Besides, say you are married to Delvac, which is now at CK-4. What do you do when Delvac switches to CL-4? It's a different additive package, maybe not from even the same additive maker.

 

[319Quahog]

Some of you folks would shun me. My truck has a mix of Castrol 5W-20, 0W-20, and Mobil 5W-20 in it now. My new wood chipper got a mix of Walmart and Quaker State 5W-30 when it specs 10W-30, I forgot what is in my splitter, snow blower, and generator. I have 19 gallons from 4 different companies of bar and chain oil on hand, and I have two brands of 2 stroke oil.

 

[paulsharvey]

Some of you folks would shun me. My truck has a mix of Castrol 5W-20, 0W-20, and Mobil 5W-20 in it now. My new wood chipper got a mix of Walmart and Quaker State 5W-30 when it specs 10W-30, I forgot what is in my splitter, snow blower, and generator. I have 19 gallons from 4 different companies of bar and chain oil on hand, and I have two brands of 2 stroke oil.

Wonder what they would think of my off brand ATF and diesel blend for cutting oil? Couldn't possibly work, it's not UL listed as approved cutting fluid

 

[LouNY]

Wonder what they would think of my off brand ATF and diesel blend for cutting oil? Couldn't possibly work, it's not UL listed as approved cutting fluid

I have used the same for cutting fluid for many years, that said.
For motor oil in my tractors they all have 5W-40 synethic and have for years.
For "hytran" fluids most of mine is and has been Cen-Pe-Co multi purpose fluid. It is a blended para synthetic.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Except for my '93 Corvette I've never had any idea what oil the manufacturer loaded into the vehicle ('93 had Mobile1 stickers on it). So basically the OEMs completely negate your argument. They want you to use a specific API minimum and then certain weights, based upon climate and tractoring style.

Besides, say you are married to Delvac, which is now at CK-4. What do you do when Delvac switches to CL-4? It's a different additive package, maybe not from even the same additive maker.

That first oil change, which I generally do at about 500 miles, can indeed be a switch of brands if the manufacturer and/or dealer refuses to let you know what oil the factory fill is.

Thankfully I know what most vehicles came with, and if I later use an oil that's different from the factory fill it's only that first oil change that will differ.

What I have done when the specs change, like from CK-4to CL-4, is check if the fluids are backwards compatible. So far they have been.