Kioti's Rear Remote Kit.

[VictorW]

As mentioned, a 4-way bucket or a grapple might be a little heavy on the front end. I've never seen smaller/light duty ones. You might want to contact Michigan Iron & Equipment: Kioti Dealer. I have seen where they make a grapple add on for your bucket. It might be cheaper and lighter to go that way.

 

[J_J]

can you have more than 2 remote valves? I am in the market for a tractor so all of this is a little new to me, but I was looking at Kioti CK20S and to put the backhoe, they have to put 2 remote valves, I was wondering if I could at another, I might want to switch to a 4 and 1 bucket so I would need another hydraulic connection

You should be able to add as many remotes as you want, Just connect the valves in series, or if they are stacked valves, just add more spool sections. You could add 3 position detent, float, motor spool, or whatever.

 

[edameyer]

I have a set of forks for my CK20 and they work great for cleaning up brush, getting firewood, etc. I can pile up brush then just run to forks under it to pick it up and move it. The forks are the kind that mount instead of the bucket rather than clamp to the bucket. I use them nearly as much as the bucket.

 

[mouth]

Do you have a quick mount bucket? or is it the standard mount? The standard mount pins on to the machine right?

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks for the info,

the reason I would like to put on the 4 way bucket is so I could grab (pinch) stuff, like if I wanted to move brush or small saplings. A 4 way bucket not be my best option but not sure what else would accomplish what I am looking for.

I plan on using the tractor to clean a bunch of land that is over grown with alder bushes and thick grass/thatch. And the larger stuff that I have to chain saw and pile up. Then I would like to use the tractor to move the pile around.

Thanks for you help and feed back

I have both a 4n1 and a grapple used on both a CK20 and DK40se. Go with the grapple. The 4n1 is a Swiss Army knife and not particularly good at anything. It is WAY less efficient for dealing with land clearing which is what I use my tractor for primarily. I sometimes think it would be faster to move brush by hand than with a 4n1. 4n1 buckets are also more vulnerable to damage and cost more than a basic grapple.

The 4n1 is really a construction tool. If you have a big loader at a construction site and cannot change implements then it does make sense but for someone working on their own property it makes more sense IMO to use either a bucket or a grapple to accomplish tasks and to switch them out when needed. My grapple stays on the tractor 90% of the time and I bring out the 4n1 only occasionally.

 

[Doitwithlife]

Question:

Does the rear remote kit come with quick connect nipples and if so is there a generic matching part I can get to connect?

I've order my rear kit and also order the attachment which just has 1/2" threaded hose. I'd like to order the quick connects without going through the dealer but am not sure what I need to order.

 

[k0ua]

Question:

Does the rear remote kit come with quick connect nipples and if so is there a generic matching part I can get to connect?

I've order my rear kit and also order the attachment which just has 1/2" threaded hose. I'd like to order the quick connects without going through the dealer but am not sure what I need to order.

As far as I know all quick connects on modern CUT tractors are 1/2 inch AG (Agricultural) quick connects. Sometimes called ISO 5675 connectors and are made by many companies which will have different part numbers. I can assure you that my Kioti has 1/2 inch Ag's females on the back of the tractor. You will need 1/2 inch ag males to couple up with them. There are many places to buy them


ISO 5675 Agricultural Hydraulic Quick Couplers

 

[koshari]

Hi all,

I just completed the install of a 2nd remote kit (T4145-A04040302) on my DK40se and would like to share some of the things that I learned the hard way.

1) buy 2 10mm x 1.25 nuts to install the longer studs. Put the first nut on and use the second to lock the first nut in place. Thread the stud completelly into the casting and then remove the two nuts.

2) the new valve is stacked onto the existing valve and will be closest to the rear wheel side of the tractor. Not towards the center of the tractor as I read here. The control levers will not function properlly as one is taller than the other.

3) the new valve comes with the orings already installed, no need of the orings (04810-00100 and 04810-00160) in the kit. Orings are found only on 1 side of the valve body.

4)the snap ring on the lever shaft is hard to get at. I had to access it through the side panel and had a tough time getting it back on.

5) the seat is heavy and an extra set of hands helped get the seat out/in without banging something up.

Although it took me longer than 2 hours complete, it was not too difficult. Thanks for everyone's input that gave me the confidence to attempt the install.

I now have a set of remotes for my hydraulic chute control for my rear blower and a set of remotes for my new power angle plow. Blower is a Pronovost 74 inch, plow is a HLA 2000 at 84 inches.

Bring on the snow !!!!!!!!!!

View attachment 188659

13 years later on and i just did the same on our smaller ck35 to enable us to use our feed our wagon that requires 2 remotes, the kit is no longer available but i did manage to find a double detent valve on a surplus site. i therefore had to manufacture the rest of the stuss from the lever, linkage and pipes to the rear,

I got the hydraulic place to make some 90deg swivel fittings to tube and ran it to the rear bulkhead and attached to iso couplers via bulkhead swagelock compression fittings, made a lever linkage up out of a pair of m8 rod and balls, also i just used some 10mm x 1.25 allthread to manufacture the longer studs. took me about 2 hours to manufacture the lever part with some 25mm round stock and some 5 x 20mm bar.

The valve is made by Mita hydraulics Italy but i wasn't able to find it on any of their catalogs.

2 kickers that got me, firstly they say in the parts the studs are "T4681-37861 STUD, M10X120MM" , I found this was to short and had to cut my bar 10mm longer to allow the stud to screw in completely and still leave enough exposed thread for the nuts to fully thread on, possibly the description is incorrect?? secondly as bigturk said its 10x1.25, M10 is actually 10x1.5 so the thread designation was wrong as well as in practice its definitely metric fine 1.25mm. i actually would have preferred a single detent valve but the double was all i could source. there were non detent, single detent and double detent options,

008264 DETENT DOUBLE ACTING VALVE
008266 DOUBLE ACTING VALVE(DETENT)
000826 VALVE, DOUBLE ACTING

 

[koshari]

same "mita" valve also was used by new holland,

 

[koshari]