Kitchen Remodel

[goaliedad]

Well- I think we know what you're going to be doing for a while! I agree- rip out the old floor framing and start clean. The biggest problem with jobs like this is the " while I'm this far...." syndrome.

From my limited remodel experience, I would suggest that you plan out as much as you can before you cover anything up- make sure you have all of the blocking in for mounting cabinets and such now is a lot easier than trying to make something work as you are putting everything up later. Good luck, and be safe.

 

[goaliedad]

Well- I think we know what you're going to be doing for a while! I agree- rip out the old floor framing and start clean. The biggest problem with jobs like this is the " while I'm this far...." syndrome.

From my limited remodel experience, I would suggest that you plan out as much as you can before you cover anything up- make sure you have all of the blocking in for mounting cabinets and such now is a lot easier than trying to make something work as you are putting everything up later. Good luck, and be safe.

 

[gsganzer]

You're going about it the right way. I remodeled my 40 year old house and put in a new kitchen. It's easier to just gut everything first, so you can see what you have to work with.

When it comes to redecking, You might want to consider using 2 layers of deck. My subfloor was made using 3/4" cypress planks (original). I was able to leave my subfloor in place (I didn't have the floor joist problems you have). I just rolled out tarpaper over the subfloor and laid new 3/4" T&G plywood over it. I fastened using 3" deck screws into the joists. It made for a really solid feeling floor. I don't believe that a single layer of 3/4" plywood would be stout enough.

 

[gsganzer]

You're going about it the right way. I remodeled my 40 year old house and put in a new kitchen. It's easier to just gut everything first, so you can see what you have to work with.

When it comes to redecking, You might want to consider using 2 layers of deck. My subfloor was made using 3/4" cypress planks (original). I was able to leave my subfloor in place (I didn't have the floor joist problems you have). I just rolled out tarpaper over the subfloor and laid new 3/4" T&G plywood over it. I fastened using 3" deck screws into the joists. It made for a really solid feeling floor. I don't believe that a single layer of 3/4" plywood would be stout enough.

 

[EddieWalker]

I agree with gsganzer on the 3/4 plywood. It will start to give a little over time on 16 inch centers.

Instead of two layers, I'd go with 12 inch centers, then glue and screw the plywood down.

Of course, this also could change depending on how you plan to finish the floor.

Tile, laminate or linolium????

Laminate is my favorite floor finish for pier and beam construction because it floats over the subfloor. Just get it smooth and flat. Simple, quick and affordable.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I agree with gsganzer on the 3/4 plywood. It will start to give a little over time on 16 inch centers.

Instead of two layers, I'd go with 12 inch centers, then glue and screw the plywood down.

Of course, this also could change depending on how you plan to finish the floor.

Tile, laminate or linolium????

Laminate is my favorite floor finish for pier and beam construction because it floats over the subfloor. Just get it smooth and flat. Simple, quick and affordable.

Eddie

 

[WhyNot]

thank's for the replies guy's. Hardwood is going to be the material used for the finished floor the parent's have not picked out what type or brand. I seen your replies after I already framed the floor out 16 in on center so I went back and added a lot of extra blocking I will also add that I used 2 by 10's with two 2 by 10 cross braces spaced evenly and I'm going to deck it in 3/4 t&g. I will post some more pics tomorrow. But the next question is for the ceiling It will be a false one, only weight it will carry would be the 5/8 rock so for max height do you's think I could get away with 2 by 4's at 12" o.c. supported above from the rafter's and where it need's to be notched maybe 1/2 in for the upstair's plumbing reinforce it with some 3/4 ply or should I just go with the 2 by 6's thank's again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
's

 

[WhyNot]

thank's for the replies guy's. Hardwood is going to be the material used for the finished floor the parent's have not picked out what type or brand. I seen your replies after I already framed the floor out 16 in on center so I went back and added a lot of extra blocking I will also add that I used 2 by 10's with two 2 by 10 cross braces spaced evenly and I'm going to deck it in 3/4 t&g. I will post some more pics tomorrow. But the next question is for the ceiling It will be a false one, only weight it will carry would be the 5/8 rock so for max height do you's think I could get away with 2 by 4's at 12" o.c. supported above from the rafter's and where it need's to be notched maybe 1/2 in for the upstair's plumbing reinforce it with some 3/4 ply or should I just go with the 2 by 6's thank's again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
's

 

[Bird]

I'm certainly no expert, but I know of a lot of houses with the dropped ceiling and I've never seen anything bigger than 2 x 4s used. I would think that should be plenty.

 

[Bird]

I'm certainly no expert, but I know of a lot of houses with the dropped ceiling and I've never seen anything bigger than 2 x 4s used. I would think that should be plenty.