Kitchen Remodel

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm certainly no expert, but I know of a lot of houses with the dropped ceiling and I've never seen anything bigger than 2 x 4s used. I would think that should be plenty. )</font>

I'd be a bit leary if it werent trussed.... If you plan on tying the 2x's to the roof truss', then you should be fine.. Just an opinion from a guy that stays in Holiday Inn Express'.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm certainly no expert, but I know of a lot of houses with the dropped ceiling and I've never seen anything bigger than 2 x 4s used. I would think that should be plenty. )</font>

I'd be a bit leary if it werent trussed.... If you plan on tying the 2x's to the roof truss', then you should be fine.. Just an opinion from a guy that stays in Holiday Inn Express'.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

Sounds like you shouldn't have any problems with your floor. To avoid sqeeks down the road, I'd glue and screw everything down.

I'm confused about what you mean by a "false one"

Are you spanning the kitchen with a framework below the existing ceiling?

If so, then you will have to size the lumber to the span and tie it together. The trick is to make sure it doesn't move to the point your sheetrock will crack. Houses move all the time. 2x4's are fine to anchor the sheetrock, but you have to have be sure you get it all tied together and secure first.

I've never hung 5/8 or thicker rock, just half inch and 3/8's. The small stuff is for going over another layer to smooth out problems from a bad first install. From what I've heard, the thicker stuff is stiffer and can handle larger spans.

With 12 inch centers, you can easily handle half inch sheetrock. I don't know why you'd want to spend more on heavier materail?????

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Sounds like you shouldn't have any problems with your floor. To avoid sqeeks down the road, I'd glue and screw everything down.

I'm confused about what you mean by a "false one"

Are you spanning the kitchen with a framework below the existing ceiling?

If so, then you will have to size the lumber to the span and tie it together. The trick is to make sure it doesn't move to the point your sheetrock will crack. Houses move all the time. 2x4's are fine to anchor the sheetrock, but you have to have be sure you get it all tied together and secure first.

I've never hung 5/8 or thicker rock, just half inch and 3/8's. The small stuff is for going over another layer to smooth out problems from a bad first install. From what I've heard, the thicker stuff is stiffer and can handle larger spans.

With 12 inch centers, you can easily handle half inch sheetrock. I don't know why you'd want to spend more on heavier materail?????

Eddie

 

[ScottAR]

5/8" rock is fire rated... I will show less waves than 1/2" but it's a bugger to hang. 4x12 weighs over 100lbs...

Maybe required for code?

 

[ScottAR]

5/8" rock is fire rated... I will show less waves than 1/2" but it's a bugger to hang. 4x12 weighs over 100lbs...

Maybe required for code?

 

[WhyNot]

buy false I mean there will be an air space between the joist that support the second floor bath room and the new ceiling doing it this way since the drainage for the bath wood be a real bugger to modify to make it all fit up in to "true" 2 X 8 joist. The reason I would like to use 5/8 is because there will be no popcorn I have been told before and above /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif that the 5/8 is the way to go for a nice looking ceiling. As far as weight is concerned it woud only be six sheet's. I did get to thinkin' today about all the work that goes into framing every thing and then get's covered up to hopefully never be seen again only for some one who don't know ask what took so long /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[WhyNot]

buy false I mean there will be an air space between the joist that support the second floor bath room and the new ceiling doing it this way since the drainage for the bath wood be a real bugger to modify to make it all fit up in to "true" 2 X 8 joist. The reason I would like to use 5/8 is because there will be no popcorn I have been told before and above /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif that the 5/8 is the way to go for a nice looking ceiling. As far as weight is concerned it woud only be six sheet's. I did get to thinkin' today about all the work that goes into framing every thing and then get's covered up to hopefully never be seen again only for some one who don't know ask what took so long /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Builder]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( thank's for the replies guy's. Hardwood is going to be the material used for the finished floor the parent's have not picked out what type or brand. I seen your replies after I already framed the floor out 16 in on center so I went back and added a lot of extra blocking I will also add that I used 2 by 10's with two 2 by 10 cross braces spaced evenly and I'm going to deck it in 3/4 t&g. I will post some more pics tomorrow. But the next question is for the ceiling It will be a false one, only weight it will carry would be the 5/8 rock so for max height do you's think I could get away with 2 by 4's at 12" o.c. supported above from the rafter's and where it need's to be notched maybe 1/2 in for the upstair's plumbing reinforce it with some 3/4 ply or should I just go with the 2 by 6's thank's again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
)</font>s

Which way are you running your ceiling 2-by's? Perpendicular or parallel with the floor joists above? It doesn't really matter what dimension you use for the ceiling since it will be supplemented by the stronger floor joists. 2x6 would be nicer if you run parallel (nailed to the side) of the upstairs floor joists because you have more nailing surface since they're taller to nail to the floor joists and more "meat" to cut out for pipes/wires, but you might end up with a lower ceiling. Me? I'd screw 2x4 flat to the bottom of the joists & just skip over pipes & wires and put a metal nail gaurd electricians use over the gaps so you don't screw drywall into the pipe/wire. If the floor joists are sagging, then nail the 2 by's next to the floor joists to create a new straight ceiling jois for your drywall.

On the floor: As long as the hardwood flooring goes across the floor joists perpendicularly and you've used 3/4" T&G with glue, you'll be fine. Make sure your joists are all crowned up, and plane out any severe crowns in the floor joists before you lay your ply.

 

[Builder]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( thank's for the replies guy's. Hardwood is going to be the material used for the finished floor the parent's have not picked out what type or brand. I seen your replies after I already framed the floor out 16 in on center so I went back and added a lot of extra blocking I will also add that I used 2 by 10's with two 2 by 10 cross braces spaced evenly and I'm going to deck it in 3/4 t&g. I will post some more pics tomorrow. But the next question is for the ceiling It will be a false one, only weight it will carry would be the 5/8 rock so for max height do you's think I could get away with 2 by 4's at 12" o.c. supported above from the rafter's and where it need's to be notched maybe 1/2 in for the upstair's plumbing reinforce it with some 3/4 ply or should I just go with the 2 by 6's thank's again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
)</font>s

Which way are you running your ceiling 2-by's? Perpendicular or parallel with the floor joists above? It doesn't really matter what dimension you use for the ceiling since it will be supplemented by the stronger floor joists. 2x6 would be nicer if you run parallel (nailed to the side) of the upstairs floor joists because you have more nailing surface since they're taller to nail to the floor joists and more "meat" to cut out for pipes/wires, but you might end up with a lower ceiling. Me? I'd screw 2x4 flat to the bottom of the joists & just skip over pipes & wires and put a metal nail gaurd electricians use over the gaps so you don't screw drywall into the pipe/wire. If the floor joists are sagging, then nail the 2 by's next to the floor joists to create a new straight ceiling jois for your drywall.

On the floor: As long as the hardwood flooring goes across the floor joists perpendicularly and you've used 3/4" T&G with glue, you'll be fine. Make sure your joists are all crowned up, and plane out any severe crowns in the floor joists before you lay your ply.