Kubota 7040 uneven hydraulic cylindars on loader arm

[cjdRanch]

I have the same issue on my tractor as this older thread. I tried to shim the side that was closed but it had not effect. When the cylinders are in the full dump position the right side is extended about 2 inches farther than the left side. do I remove the upper hydraulic line and pull it back and then close it? Not sure the best method. A friend said he had to do the same thing on a skid steer one time but did not remember if the pulled it back or pushed the other one back. Thank you for any assistance in advance.

 

[Tinhack]

I think something is bent. Aren't the two sides connected by that cross tube? Attempting to square it up may crack the tube or a weld. (or a cylinder mount)

You would need to lock the left side and PULL the right side. Good luck.

 

[cjdRanch]

I think something is bent. Aren't the two sides connected by that cross tube? Attempting to square it up may crack the tube or a weld. (or a cylinder mount)

You would need to lock the left side and PULL the right side. Good luck.

yes they are connected. I have measured everything I can and can not find anything out of whack other than the right side cylinder is 1/2 in longer than the left. I tried to crack the upper line on the right side and pull it back, but it pulled the left side back the same amount. I am not a hydraulic expert, but thinking maybe I need to open the lower line on the left side when I pull the right side back? but yes, need a way to lock the left side in place and pull the right side back. Thank you for your response.

 

[Rustyiron]

It requires cutting that "torque tube" and welding it back together.
I had the same problem. I cut it in the middle, found a pipe that fit nicely over this tube slid it over the factory tube and welded back together while attached to the bucket (for setting the "timing")
I have pictures on my computer that I'll try to find.

 

[Tinhack]

You shouldn't "crack" any lines. You'd have high pressure hydraulic oil spraying out--Very dangerous. Leave the lines connected. The two hydraulic sides are linked together. Find a way to chain the left side so it doesn't move and roll the dump back. Just don't do it in the position of your picture--You could bend a cylinder rod.

A large concrete slab/wall and 3/8" grade 70 chain will be needed.

If it were me, I'd remove that whole carriage and bolt it down in a 20-30 ton press. Press it back into alignment or cut and reweld the tube.

 

[Tinhack]

Ops, Rusty beat me to it.

 

[cjdRanch]

You shouldn't "crack" any lines. You'd have high pressure hydraulic oil spraying out--Very dangerous. Leave the lines connected. The two hydraulic sides are linked together. Find a way to chain the left side so it doesn't move and roll the dump back. Just don't do it in the position of your picture--You could bend a cylinder rod.

A large concrete slab/wall and 3/8" grade 70 chain will be needed.

If it were me, I'd remove that whole carriage and bolt it down in a 20-30 ton press. Press it back into alignment or cut and reweld the tube.

well I don't have a 30 ton press, so that is not an option. Are you saying that the carriage is bent? I did not have it running when I tried to pull it back into alignment so there was no high pressure spraying, more like dribbling. just so I understand. lock the left side into place and then roll it back while locked and try to pull it back into alignment. But do it in more of a neutral position? How about a large tree, chain it to the trunk?

 

[cjdRanch]

It requires cutting that "torque tube" and welding it back together.
I had the same problem. I cut it in the middle, found a pipe that fit nicely over this tube slid it over the factory tube and welded back together while attached to the bucket (for setting the "timing")
I have pictures on my computer that I'll try to find.

so I have to seperate the sides push one side back into alignment and then weld back together?

 

[4570Man]

There’s no synchronization of the cylinders. They rely 100 percent on the loader frame. If the cylinders aren’t aligned the frame is bent.

 

[4570Man]

so I have to seperate the sides push one side back into alignment and then weld back together?

I’d try putting a shim in the bump stop that closes first and see if you can push the other side down with the hydraulics. If that doesn’t work you’ll probably have to cut and reweld it.

 

[Tinhack]

so I have to seperate the sides push one side back into alignment and then weld back together?

Yes. Be careful while cutting that tube too. The sides could spring while cutting and/or pinch a blade.

 

[Rustyiron]

Yes, and tinhack is right about your blade getting pinched. I used a portable band saw and it did pinch but other than that it wasn't difficult.
I added the bigger pipe over it for additional strength as I remember the event that put enough force on it to bend (twist) it and decided no to try to recreate that repairing it.
I'll go to the computer.

 

[JimB77]

It requires cutting that "torque tube" and welding it back together.
I had the same problem. I cut it in the middle, found a pipe that fit nicely over this tube slid it over the factory tube and welded back together while attached to the bucket (for setting the "timing")
I have pictures on my computer that I'll try to find.

I agree tube is twisted that times both side of SSQA.

 

[Rustyiron]

I thought that I had documented this better (more pictures)

IIRC I measured the longest pipe that I could slide over it without dissembling it with a cut in the middle. I did have to remove one cylinder from this ssqa assembly, rotate it out of alignment, slide the new pipe over, then "clock" it back into alignment and slide it back over both halves.
Notice the slug welds that I pre drilled into the new tube for additional strength. I did not re weld the center cut. I hope this helps, it's really very simple if you have some welding tools.

 

[JimB77]

The only way I can envision how one twists tube is to utilize SSQA attachment bracket without bucket or forklift forks or some other quick attach device properly/securely attached to SSQA attaching device.

 

[Rustyiron]

Jim I've heard of one side becoming un latched and going unnoticed putting tremendous force on this tube. It really should be "beefier" with a larger diameter.

 

[LD1]

Yup, torque tube is bent.

Other than you noticing it, is it causing any operational issues? IS it still easy to hook and unhook the bucket and its the bucket still level with the tractor? If so, Id just leave it alone no more twisted than it is.

If it is causing issues...you can either try some of the methods here for twisting it back to straight, or cut and reweld, or as a last resort buy a new SSQA adapter for your machine.

 

[JimB77]

Jim I've heard of one side becoming un latched and going unnoticed putting tremendous force on this tube. It really should be "beefier" with a larger diameter.

Good point about one side of SSQA becoming unlatched or possibly not latched correctly when mounting attachments

 

[RancherGuy]

Why does every "fix the tube" solution use a cut? If going that route, I'd recommend just putting torque stress on the tube then heating until it gives enough to correct.

Otherwise I would suggest trying to cold-torque first by putting the cylinders into a 50% extension position and chaining the right side so it does not move (forward), then use the hydraulics to push the left side until the sides are parallel. It would require a measuring tape to measure the current position of left vs right, apply and remove hydraulic pressure, then measure again. Repeat until the desired change occurs.

 

[Leejohn]

Why not try pushing against a tree ?