Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

An addition I made when installing my radio, is a little toggle switch that connects the memory wire to the key switched radio power. That way I can listen to the radio while working outside the tractor, door open, when parked. You do need to add a couple of isolation diodes to keep the constant 12Volts from feeding back into the switched. I did a previous post on it.

Also replaced the stock cab speakers with aftermarket - much improved sound. Downside, if there is one, is you have to remove roof as they used regular loose nuts to secure speaker screws. That too is easy. I'd previous posts this thread on both projects but unfortunately, photo links got trashed. The photobucket album (with other Kubota projects too) is here:

Kubota Tractor Photos by bumperm | Photobucket

 

[bumperm]

Here is the hydraulic chute deflector that I built for the front mount snow blower. I could not justify the crazy cost of a kit from Kubota, so with the help of the fabricator at my shop we built this. It runs off the dump/curl function of the loader joystick, but could just as easily run of a third function or rear remote. It bolts to the existing holes in the chute. Not that we built one, we are thinking we may build more if there was interest from other folks in buying something like this. Wondering is there is any interest in buying this as an add on kit or buying the brackets and adding your own cylinder and hoses.

View attachment 413523View attachment 413522View attachment 413521

I did similar, but using a 2" diameter cylinder - one certainly doesn't need the power for the deflector, I was just concerned that a smaller cylinder would travel too fast. Even with that larger volume of the 2", I still added a 0.032" restricter orifice to slow down the ram speed to something more easily manageable.





Lining the chute with UHMW PE for no clogging and even more throw distance - - now if we just had some snow, a bleak year here.



bumper

 

[Farmall45b]

I did similar, but using a 2" diameter cylinder - one certainly doesn't need the power for the deflector, I was just concerned that a smaller cylinder would travel too fast. Even with that larger volume of the 2", I still added a 0.032" restricter orifice to slow down the ram speed to something more easily manageable.





Lining the chute with UHMW PE for no clogging and even more throw distance - - now if we just had some snow, a bleak year here.



bumper

I notice that your chute does not have holes drilled in it. My blower came with holes drilled in it for mounting a chute actuator. At first I thought that they all came this way and the factory just did a poor job of drilling the holes. Now I am beginning to think that my blower was previously in the hands of someone else who started to modify it to install a chute actuator.

 

[Farmall45b]

bumperm,

I am sure that it is somewhere in this thread, but what did you use for flow restrictors? I have 1/4 NPT at fittings on my hoses, cylinder and coupler. All the inline orfices that I am seeing online are either JIC or ORFS. I have thought about trying to build something with a washer or something to restrict flow and sandwiching it between my hose and coupler, but I am a bit affraid of the washer disintigrating under the pressure and going somewhere that would cause a lot of damage.

 

[bumperm]

I notice that your chute does not have holes drilled in it. My blower came with holes drilled in it for mounting a chute actuator. At first I thought that they all came this way and the factory just did a poor job of drilling the holes. Now I am beginning to think that my blower was previously in the hands of someone else who started to modify it to install a chute actuator.

Could be . . . were there any other indications that the holes had anything installed before, or were there other signs of use?

Or perhaps the mfg change their MO and decided to pre-drill the chute to accept the Kubota's supplied brackets for their deflector option? I briefly looked into buying parts from them - thought they were a little pricey. Easier to do it myself. I decided not to use reinforcement plates as the chute looked stout enough for directly welding bracket and lever arm for the cylinder (knowing that if I goofed, I could always go back, fix cracks, and do it right the second time :c). I planned the geometry so that the chute just fully opens and closes at the ends of the cylinder stroke with no over or under travel stress.

 

[Farmall45b]

Could be . . . were there any other indications that the holes had anything installed before, or were there other signs of use?

Or perhaps the mfg change their MO and decided to pre-drill the chute to accept the Kubota's supplied brackets for their deflector option? I briefly looked into buying parts from them - thought they were a little pricey. Easier to do it myself. I decided not to use reinforcement plates as the chute looked stout enough for directly welding bracket and lever arm for the cylinder (knowing that if I goofed, I could always go back, fix cracks, and do it right the second time :c). I planned the geometry so that the chute just fully opens and closes at the ends of the cylinder stroke with no over or under travel stress.

Holes are not drilled very cleanly or aligned very well. Some spray paint was very clearly used to touch up paint damage from drilling the holes.

 

[bumperm]

bumperm,

I am sure that it is somewhere in this thread, but what did you use for flow restrictors? I have 1/4 NPT at fittings on my hoses, cylinder and coupler. All the inline orfices that I am seeing online are either JIC or ORFS. I have thought about trying to build something with a washer or something to restrict flow and sandwiching it between my hose and coupler, but I am a bit affraid of the washer disintigrating under the pressure and going somewhere that would cause a lot of damage.

I made them on my lathe. On 1/4" fittings, I drilled the existing hole in the fitting and tapped it 1/4 -20, then annealed a 1/4 - 20 set screw and drilled the set screw part way with a 1/8" bit, then the balance with the .032" wire drill.

On larger fittings going to cylinder ports, I made a disk type plug that would be a press fit in the connector, center drilled plug .032, then TIG welded the plug in place.

Only one restrictor needed per cylinder.

I did the same for the 3-point top and tilt.

I searched on line for suitable restricters, and found some adjustable ones, but nothing I wanted to use. I'm sure they must make them though.

 

[bumperm]

Holes are not drilled very cleanly or aligned very well. Some spray paint was very clearly used to touch up paint damage from drilling the holes.

Strange. Wonder if a dealer had installed that option for someone who then waffled on it?

 

[bumperm]

I have 200 hours on my B3350 and was doing the service. For some inexplicable reason, I had it in my head that the hydraulic fluid needed to be changed at 200 hours. I didn't check the books until *after* I changed it - Dang, a bit early, oh well. The question:

The Maintenance manual, published date of 12-2012 gives the interval as every 400 hours. The Owner's manual that came with my tractor (can't find a date on it) gives the interval for replacing the fluid at every 300 hours. Which is right??

The spec for the fluid is the same in either book Kubota Super UDT2 fluid (the synthetic stuff), so that wouldn't be the reason for this interval discrepancy.

 

[sandyc]

According to owners manual 6c430-63131 dated 8/14, the hydraulic fluid and filter interval for changing is at 400 hours and then again at 800 and continue for each 400 hour interval.