Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[RFB]

Curious, I opened the air filter canister, the filter inside was entirely encased in ice crystals; in fact the canister was fully packed with ice. I pulled out both the outer and inner filters; the inner was a bit wet, but not frozen. I dried it out with compressed air, and re-installed with a new outer air filter.

That is very different, at least for me. Never heard of that one. My B3000 (same essential layout) has never encountered that issue and the air routing is the same.

I do not understand the dynamic that would cause ice in the air. Is there a possibility that your air filter got wet through washing, and then froze with the introduction of cold (-32f) air?

Where is the water coming from is the question?

 

[Dan W]

That is very different, at least for me. Never heard of that one. My B3000 (same essential layout) has never encountered that issue and the air routing is the same.

I do not understand the dynamic that would cause ice in the air. Is there a possibility that your air filter got wet through washing, and then froze with the introduction of cold (-32f) air?

Where is the water coming from is the question?

Engine air intake starvation is is very typical with onhighway trucks during winter snowstorm conditions. For we northern runners, it's normal to see inside/outside engine air intake diverters installed on truck air intake systems. Have any of you ever heard of an air filter being described as a snow cone maker? I've taken air filters out, smacked them on the shop floor and a nice ice/snow cone would slide off the filter. It's a common thing, so you did exactly the right thing by rerouting the air intake pipe to suck air from under the hood. My F3680 sucks its intake air from a fine screen area of the top and sides of the engine cover, this area gets completely iced up when blowing snow so the air is then naturally diverted from the top and sides, to being aspirated from the bottom, where there is less airborne snow.
Hope this helps some...


Dan

 

[RFB]

Interesting phenomenon; I have never heard of that.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

I can see you there blowing snow in that nice warm cab. Was the snow being blown back at you to get sucked into the air intake? The only other way I know of for ice to form on an intake filter would be due to the design of the system causing a low pressure area and subsequent condensation, cooling, and freezing of water vapor in the intake. The dual filter design might exascerbate that due to the low pressure area between the partially blocked outer filter and the inner filter.

Good fix moving the intake, however the warmer intake air being less dense will lower power slightly.

bumper

 

[BadDog]

Ice was definitely coming from snowblowing - particularly with a very fine, light snow that doesn't clump at all. To minimize drifting and maximize visibility, I set the blower to throw the shortest distance possible, and behind me as much as the blower will allow. This makes the snow 'explode' right around the front of the tractor as it hits the chute deflector on the way out. Leaving the air intake where it was would suck in air with snow in it, from the cloud of snow created by the snowblower. Simply moving the intake behind the radiator completely resolved the problem. I don't have this type of problem with heavy, wet, clumpy snow, as it doesn't 'explode' at all.

Any power loss from the warmer air is not really noticeable with this cold weather, there is more than enough power to get the job done. I was able to dry out the old filter - it only has about 10 hours on it, so I should be able to re-use it at the next service interval.

It's nice to have this problem resolved, I can leave the tractor outside 24/7 now and know that it will run when I need it, as long as I need it. Other than this issue I have had no problems with either the tractor or the snowblower and am very pleased with both.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

Are you using a block heater on your frozen tractor? I bought one from the dealer when I got the tractor, but haven't installed it yet, as I keep mine in a heated garage mostly (though right now it's at the airport in my hangar.

I think it's much kinder to the engine to use a heater of some sort in the cold. I preheat my aircraft engines when it's below 50 F, though they are a much different issue at they are air cooled and the cylinder walls are tapered (choked) so when up to temperature the walls are near parallel. Cold starts cause a *lot* more wear on them. And perhaps worse, one little ol' 4 cylinder 360 cubic inch engine costs more than a B50 series cab Kubota!

bumper

 

[rayclar]

baddog do you have any pics of how you routed you air intake. I have problems with my l4310 also.

 

[BadDog]

Bumperm, I've had tractors for 10+ years now and have never used a block heater. The engines are normally over-engineered for the abuse they take. Also, the climate here isn't that bad - I've lived in much worse. The local dealers leave their tractors outdoors year-round, and never use block heaters. Pick any dealer and visit them without an appointment, on the coldest day you can find, and ask to test drive the unit of your choice. I'll bet you a pair of wet socks they don't bother with a block heater. Years ago I worked on oil rigs in northern Alberta, where winter temps regularly saw -30C or much worse for several weeks straight. I would definitely use a block heater in those conditions. That said, I'd still rather park my tractor in the heated shop when not in use if I had the choice, but we seem to have one too many vehicles to allow that. It takes a special situation for my wife to allow me to park the truck in the riding arena, letting me park the tractor indoors. At least the tractor is out of the wind where it is parked due to the way our buildings are situated.

rayclar, I will put a pic up later. I just twisted the intake where it is clamped to the air cleaner housing. Normally the intake rests on the top of the rad, I twisted it so it would end on the other side of the rad, just enough so that it can fall behind the rad and let the hood shut normally. I know a pic is always better and I will get to it.

 

[BadDog]

rayclar, I just went outside to take a picture of the intake relocation for you. but it is -10F and the hood of the tractor is frozen shut! Will try again later.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

BTW, I like that name, my golden retriever (who my wife thinks is sometimes possessed) is named, Thumper Beelzepup H*ll-Fire Morgan. Should've named her "No-No Bad Dog.

In any case, I may tend toward the conservative side when it comes to caring for tools and equipment. I have small aircraft, on which an engine alone costs more than my Kubota. The aircraft get pre-heated below 50 F, while many recommend pre-heating below 40 F. They are air cooled and the cylinders are designed with "choke" being smaller at the head end, so that when up to temperature the bore is basically parallel. If started too cold, the rings can scuff and do other bad stuff. Still, the experts say that most wear occurs on start up and especially cold starts.

Pre-heaters are relatively cheap. I know the dealers won't bother with it, but I have way less tractors to deal with than them and I'll most likely be keeping this'un a lot longer than they'll be keeping theirs. If wear issues occur due to cold weather starts when the oil is thicker and doesn't circulate as well, it would be typically later on in the tractor's life when that becomes apparent.

all the best,

bumper