Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run

   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #61  
If it were mine, I think I would take a piston-rod assembly without the rings and put it in the bore with the piston down, from the top of the engine. I'd heat the piston to about 250F with a propane torch and an infrared thermometer. See if it still moves easily. I don't know how hot they get while the engine is running, but 250 isn't much above boiling, so I wouldn't think it would hurt it.

The pistons are the only thing I can think of that could drag that much without ruining something. Good luck with it.

Edit: Didn't see your reply embedded in the quote of my post.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#62  
If it were mine, I think I would take a piston-rod assembly without the rings and put it in the bore with the piston down, from the top of the engine. I'd heat the piston to about 250F with a propane torch and an infrared thermometer. See if it still moves easily. I don't know how hot they get while the engine is running, but 250 isn't much above boiling, so I wouldn't think it would hurt it.

The pistons are the only thing I can think of that could drag that much without ruining something. Good luck with it.

Edit: Didn't see your reply embedded in the quote of my post.

GUESS I COULD PUT IN IN THE OVEN AT SET IT TO 250. DO NOT HAVE AN INFRARED TEMP. BUT THE OVEN SHOULD WORK FINE.

I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING ELSE THAT I SHOULD HAVE CHECKER EARLIER BUT DID NOT THINK ABOUT IT POSSIBLY CAUSING A PROBLEM. THE LEFT SIDE BRAKE IS STUCK. AS I BOUGHT IT WITH THE MOTOR NOT RUNNING, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THE BREAK AND FIGURED I WOULD CHECK IT OUT LATER. COULD A STUCK BREAK CAUSE THE HST TRANS TO BOG THE MOTOR DOWN???????????
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Does anyone know how hard it should be to push a b7100 with hst trans with the motor not running??? I would guess there could be some back pressure but mine is very difficult to push and you basically have to push an inch or two at a time while rocking it back and forth. Is that typical??
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #64  
B7100 Hst. your hydrostat petal has Hi-Neutral-Low. Put petal in Neutral position and you can roll it.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #65  
It won't push at all in "gear". Put it in neutral and try to push it. It will still be pretty hard, but as long as it is on concrete you should be able to push it by yourself. If I put my B7100 HST in gear or my L3240 HST in gear and pulled them they will skid the wheels.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #66  
With the engine out try flushing the coolant passages with a water hose. While doing this check temperatures on the block/head at various places. Just to prove water circulation.

Might want to sit looking at it & have a malts. Then throw up the hands and call a dealer?!?!
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#67  
I was pretty sure it was in neutral based on pedal position and during one short run event, I did push the pedal and move it forward a short distance and then back it up. I did have to touch the pedal in the "opposite" direction to get it to stop, as it did not seem to want to stop by just releasing pressure off the pedal. I am wondering if in fact the transmission is source of the apparent "back pressure." I turned the trans. input shaft and hydraulic fluid came out of the line coming from the left side (as you sit on the tractor) of the trans. I am not certain if this would occur if the trans was not trying to engage??

Hopefully will have enough time next weekend to put it back together and may try just putting engine in the frame that mounts to the front drive axle and make some kind of rear mount that will allow me to start the engine without mounting it to the transmission.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #68  
I was pretty sure it was in neutral based on pedal position and during one short run event, I did push the pedal and move it forward a short distance and then back it up. I did have to touch the pedal in the "opposite" direction to get it to stop, as it did not seem to want to stop by just releasing pressure off the pedal. I am wondering if in fact the transmission is source of the apparent "back pressure." I turned the trans. input shaft and hydraulic fluid came out of the line coming from the left side (as you sit on the tractor) of the trans. I am not certain if this would occur if the trans was not trying to engage??

Hopefully will have enough time next weekend to put it back together and may try just putting engine in the frame that mounts to the front drive axle and make some kind of rear mount that will allow me to start the engine without mounting it to the transmission.
what others have said in neutral should be able to roll. What you are looking at there for oil coming out maybe a lube pump oil. I have worked as a service rep, when we come up against something like this it almost always comes down to something simple. You have done or looked at the hard stuff. it is being able to step back and look at it, don't know if I would have a dealer look at it, but another set of eyes or opinion might be helpful. It becomes seeing the forest for the trees.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#69  
what others have said in neutral should be able to roll. What you are looking at there for oil coming out maybe a lube pump oil. I have worked as a service rep, when we come up against something like this it almost always comes down to something simple. You have done or looked at the hard stuff. it is being able to step back and look at it, don't know if I would have a dealer look at it, but another set of eyes or opinion might be helpful. It becomes seeing the forest for the trees.

Yes, I hope you are right on the simple answer. May get a buddy to stop by who is a better mechanic than I.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #70  
Yes, I hope you are right on the simple answer. May get a buddy to stop by who is a better mechanic than I.
Have a party I have found beer solves lots of problems
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #71  
The transmission on this tractor isn't very smooth. If you are moving forward and let off the pedal mine will slow down, but you have to press reverse to completely stop.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #72  
The transmission on this tractor isn't very smooth. If you are moving forward and let off the pedal mine will slow down, but you have to press reverse to completely stop.

The roller on the centering V plate may need some attention.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #74  
G'day you say they have checked piston to bore clearance but have you checked ring end gap?

Jon
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#75  
JUne 26 UPDATE

I fully disassembled the entire motor and too back to machine shop. All parts within tolerances. All piston end gaps good. The cam plugs are tightly in place. Before putting it back together I staring blowing out all passages in the block and noticed no air at port for oil pressure sensor. As some may recall from earlier, I had an oil leak at the back of the engine the first time I tried to start. There was a missing plug in an oil galley port at the back of the block after receiving from machine shop. So I found this "missing" oil plug screwed into the hole for the oil sensor. It was in far enough I could thread in the oil sensor so far I did not realize what was happening. THUS, I HAVE OIL PRESSURE - THAT IS NOT A PROBLEM.

When reassembling this time, I believe that I had the crankshaft timing one cog off before. I found the dot to align with the idler gear under a thin flat washer. Last time, I could not see it and just tried to bring the front (#1) piston to TDC, but now believe I was off one cog. Anyway, I got it all back together this weekend, built a makeshift engine stand so I could isolate it from the transmission and hydraulic lines. It started right up and idled just perfect for about 4 to 5 minutes and then died as before. Actually, before it would only run about one minute before getting hot an apparently ceasing. I did not attempt to restart, but checked the temp of the head/radiator. The head was hot, could not touch without discomfort. The top radiator hose got hotter after sitting for a few minutes but I could not feel any heat much below just the very top. I seems as though the heat was conducting through still water and not as though there is any flow of water through the system.

I did get a new head from Kumar Bros., as the old head was cracked. I thought I checked it closely to make sure it matched the original head, as I seem to recall when ordering that they did not have one that matched the parts number in my booked but they assured me it was correct. I think that the issue is in the head and a lack of any water movement allowing it to cool. I am considering pulling off the radiator and trying to flush water through the head/block with a garden hose. Anybody have any other suggestions? I may have to take the head off again just to satisfy myself that there are not mismatched / blocked ports at the block-to-head contact.

I am also curious about installion of the flywheel. The repair manual says to just install and if runout is off, then reposition flywheel. When I put it back together this time, I rotated crank until I had number one cylinder on the compression stroke based on valve position and when went a little further to approximate TDC, as I already had the head installed. I then aligned the timing marks on the flywheel to where TDC was closest to the side where it would be seen in the alignment hole of the transmission housing. Will the flywheel bolt on only when properly aligned with the crank or can it go on being misaligned? There is nothing on the end of the crankshaft, like a key, to ensure proper alignment that I can see.

I guess I am starting to recall why I have not done this in 20+ years!!
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #76  
The flywheel will only bolt to the crankshaft in one position. The holes will only line up in one position. The holes may look close but the bolts will not be close enough to hand thread in.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#77  
The flywheel will only bolt to the crankshaft in one position. The holes will only line up in one position. The holes may look close but the bolts will not be close enough to hand thread in.

Thanks D2Cat. I was curious about that as it seemed to only want to go on in that one position, but I tried to make sure the position made sense based on the crank position just in case. I am relieved to know at least that part has to be correctly installed.
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run
  • Thread Starter
#79  
Post twenty.

Yes, back to Post #20. All holes in head, block and gasket seem to be correct, so I do not think there is obstruction at that point. I will try the garden hose this weekend and see what that shows. I cannot remember for sure now, but it seems as though the opening at the front of the head where the flange that holds "altenator" bolts on was smaller on the new head. I hope not to take the flange off again as that was a pain to get it to seal up without water trying to leak through the bolt hole that holds the "altenator."
 
   / Kubota B7100 Overhauled now will not run #80  
With no water pump or thermostat you should be able to flush water both ways thru the engine and radiator.
Hopefully a Flush either way may indicate a problem area. Just curious, have any frost plugs been changed?
 

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