Kubota BX25 FEL falls under own weight

[LD1]

I have no signs of drift now. :confused3:

The bucket will remain in place once the lever is returned to center. You can also shut the tractor down and the bucket will in place for hours. Are you suggesting there could still potentially be another issue with the valve?

A piston seal on its own wont cause a drift in the retract direction. Just not possible as there is no where for the fluid to go that is displaced by the rod.

Now on rare ocassions, which we seem to have here.....is the passages in the spool valve that seal off the base end of the cylinder are tight, but the passages that seal off the rod end allow seepage. THAT, in combination with the faulty seal allow fluid to exit the cylinder back through the valve

 

[dubojr10]

A piston seal on its own wont cause a drift in the retract direction. Just not possible as there is no where for the fluid to go that is displaced by the rod.

Now on rare ocassions, which we seem to have here.....is the passages in the spool valve that seal off the base end of the cylinder are tight, but the passages that seal off the rod end allow seepage. THAT, in combination with the faulty seal allow fluid to exit the cylinder back through the valve

:thumbsup:

 

[pugabral]

It's prolly an inch per second or more with tractor running. I get the typical leak down during shut down periods but I consider that normal.

I have folowed this post and I have completed all thee tests prescribed and still have a problem. I have the tractor disasssembled to the spool/valve body but am hesident to go further without some guidence on how to actually take this apart. Iss there a YouTube video or some other reference I can follow?

 

[LD1]

I have folowed this post and I have completed all thee tests prescribed and still have a problem. I have the tractor disasssembled to the spool/valve body but am hesident to go further without some guidence on how to actually take this apart. Iss there a YouTube video or some other reference I can follow?

There really is nothing repairable in the spool valve itself. Its metal on metal and no seals. So short of there being some debris in there causing one of the spools to not close all the way....there is nothing you can do other than valve replacement

 

[rScotty]

I have folowed this post and I have completed all thee tests prescribed and still have a problem. I have the tractor disasssembled to the spool/valve body but am hesident to go further without some guidence on how to actually take this apart. Iss there a YouTube video or some other reference I can follow?

If you are trying to gain some understanding of the way your BX25 hydraulic system works, then this thread is going to be a hard one to follow. There is plenty of good, but also some wrong information in here.
What LD1 says in message #64 is correct. Unless there is some sort of debris in the valve body itself - which would be very rare - then there is nothing repairable in there and every chance of screwing things up.

I recommend you collect some information on what it is doing, post what the problem actually is, and go from there.

 

[crashz]

First dubo - I have major shop envy! Wow!

Second - Those seals look to be quite damaged, could that be a chemical compatibility issue? Have you changed your hydro oil from the Kubota spec'ed Super UDT2? I'm shocked at the damage to those seals.

 

[pugabral]

Maybe this would be helpful for discussion too.

View attachment 565985

I have gone through all of the diagnostics as have been suggested, I have a print out of the diagram. Problem: instead of retaining ring with rings on the end to use a special plyers to squeeze them together and remove them, I have a wire spring retaining them. I have tried all of the normal culprits to try to remove them and have not been successful. Is there a trick?

 

[rScotty]

If they are the retaining rings I think they are - called " single turn internal retaining rings" and they fit into a groove. They are easily installed but I don't believe they are designed to be removed. Not sure that there is anything to be gained by removing them from the control valve as there aren't likely to be user-repairable parts inside.

However, if it is just curiosity then that makes sense. Those single turn internal rings can sometimes be removed. I have a very thin small but strong screwdriver of the sort normally used for electronic work, eyeglass frames, or maybe pocket watch repair. And also another tool that is simply a length of small diameter round spring-steel that ends in a small hook. I think both were originally for working on manual typewriters... Both are very high quality steel.

Working at the end of the retaining ring, I can sometimes slide the screwdriver blade or the hook between one end of the retaining spring-ring and it's slot enough to elevate the end out of the slot high enough to hook with the other tool. Delicate work. Once you can lift one end out of the slot all will follow. Do NOT try your pocket knife. It's tempting, but all that will do is break the point off the blade.

Luck, rScotty

 

[pugabral]

OK, that made sense, and I tried it, and used a small hammer to force the small screwdriver under the spring, and then another screwdriver to get under the ring and twist the blade to get the ring above the groove, then a pair of needle nose in to grab it and get is out.
Thanks
Now I have pulled everything out, keeping everything in order and cleaned everything. I have blown the bore out and carefully inspected the spool rod. Everything seems to be in good working order, no scratches or nicks.
Is there anything else I need to do before I put everything back together?

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Front end loader sounds pretty good to me.