Kubota Paint and Primer

[Atchuuu]

Messicks is $14.05 a can for the Orange. I wouldn't be complaining at 9 bucks a can but 14 plus shipping is outrageous. Have to order more to finish this job but never again. Really pisses me off that I didn't go with Rustoleum in the first place. $14.00 a can plus shipping is a rip off.

 

[Atchuuu]

I prefer not to buy anything from Amazon, not because of cost, delivery or anything like that but because of ownership. Besides, Rustoleum and Majic is readily available locally.

I'd rather use rattle cans, cleanup is much simpler and I have one of those spray can trigger things that fit on the can and depress the spray nozzle so the rattle can becomes just like a handheld sprayer and you don't get a painted finger.....

Try to avoid Amazon when I can too but in this case the shipping for 3 cans of overpriced spray paint was $14.07 from Messicks.

I went to Amazon and with free shipping ended up paying the same amount for 4 cans of paint vs. 3.

 

[fried1765]

I prefer not to buy anything from Amazon, not because of cost, delivery or anything like that but because of ownership. Besides, Rustoleum and Majic is readily available locally.

I'd rather use rattle cans, cleanup is much simpler and I have one of those spray can trigger things that fit on the can and depress the spray nozzle so the rattle can becomes just like a handheld sprayer and you don't get a painted finger.....

I will submit that is virtually impossible to do a quality paint job with rattle cans.
How do you add hardener to a rattle can?

 

[5030]

I will submit that is virtually impossible to do a quality paint job with rattle cans.
How do you add hardener to a rattle can?

I don't. Hardener in an alkyd enamel causes the coating to become brittle and prone to chipping plus it increases the surface gloss. Hardener in a 2 part catalyized urethane is fine but not so good in ordinary enamel.

It's a tractor, not a Ferrari......

 

[Atchuuu]

I am impressed with the way the paint job turned out so far. Going for protection instead of perfection and if the paint stays put but fades I am okay with that. It will look like the rest of the tractor.

The side step and rear of the tractor have been repainted in Rops Gray and I have to say that it made this part of the tractor look like new.

 

[5030]

I reddid the open station M9 this spring. Stripped all the tin off, I mean fenders, floor boards, seat base, hood, cowl, everything and powerwashed the entire chassis multiple times and the did it all in ROPS grey. Too 4 cans but came out very nice. I repainted everything but the hood and replaced the pertinent decals. The hood needs to go to the body shop I have a rather large dent in the middle and a crease (from the previous owner) and just the hood from my dealer or Messicks is 900 bucks. I'll get it bumped out and let them repaint it. Really don't like grungy scratched up tractors. I farm with them so some 'wear and tear' is to be expected.

I've seen some pretty bad '5 gallon finishes' on tractors before. I remember one 4020 Deere I saw for sale, the butthole painted right over the grease. It looked good from a distance but the closer you got the worse it looked. Of course he wanted a small fortune for it. 4020's command a high buck around here but considering the schlock paint job if it was any indication of how it was taken care of... I passed. I'm sure some 'sucker' bought it just because it was a 4020.

Hard to make a sow's ear into a silk purse when you are too lazy to clean the grease off before painting something.

 

[sixdogs]

Rustoleum under Orange II from an HVLP spray gun sprayer works great and is very satisfying. On a bucket, and I am now painting mine, Orange II with a spray gun and no primer really works just as well. It's a bucket and is going to get beat up is what I figure and I'm fussy. Kubota rattle cans are great paint but hard to get a good looking job on a large flat surface. It's just the way it is. You can buy a low-buck Harbor Freight spray gun and even a small(ish) compressor used judiciously with bulk paint will do a fine job. There are lots of threads on this.

Kubota Orange II is a beautiful acrylic enamel and well worth the effort to spray correctly. Practice first ad study up.

If you are a newbie at spraying it's OK and there's a fast learning curve. In a few minutes you can do an excellent job if you research it first and ask some questions. I learned and my wife calls me unteachable...

 

[fried1765]

Rustoleum under Orange II from an HVLP spray gun sprayer works great and is very satisfying. On a bucket, and I am now painting mine, Orange II with a spray gun and no primer really works just as well. It's a bucket and is going to get beat up is what I figure and I'm fussy. Kubota rattle cans are great paint but hard to get a good looking job on a large flat surface. It's just the way it is. You can buy a low-buck Harbor Freight spray gun and even a small(ish) compressor used judiciously with bulk paint will do a fine job. There are lots of threads on this.

Kubota Orange II is a beautiful acrylic enamel and well worth the effort to spray correctly. Practice first ad study up.

If you are a newbie at spraying it's OK and there's a fast learning curve. In a few minutes you can do an excellent job if you research it first and ask some questions. I learned and my wife calls me unteachable...

EXACTLY CORRECT!
Except for touch-up, rattle cans are a Micky Mouse solution for a paint job.

 

[ray66v]

There are a lot of misconceptions about "hardener".

The kind of paint discussed here, is industrial enamel.

Unlike some modern urethane finishes, industrial enamel does not require a hardener.

Hardener doesn't make industrial enamel significantly harder. It helps the paint reach it's full hardness, (cure), faster.

If you compare industrial enamel that has been fully cured, to industrial enamel that has been sprayed with hardener, you will not see a difference.

The primary problem with industrial enamel is, the solvents used are very low quality. (That's why industrial enamel is the least expensive paint you can buy). Low quality solvents don't evaporate fast, and often because the paint is applied incorrectly, become trapped in the finish. That keeps the coating from curing, (reaching full hardness).

Several weeks in the hot sun will drive the solvents out of the finish, and allow the paint to cure. Once that happens, it's pretty durable. Especially, if you use good quality primers.

If the gloss dulls down as your paint job dries, that is an indication you have a lot of trapped solvents in it. Waiting between coats, and not applying heavy coats will help to keep you from trapping solvents.

 

[sixdogs]

Another thing about hardeners--isocyanates--is the damage they can do to your lungs. Read the darned can. ONE use can permanently damage your lungs and you must wear a supplied air (spacesuit) system with air drawn from outside the building. The damage doesn't have to show up right away and may never show up but the risk is considerable.

Let's see...buy a lottery ticket with a one in 12 million chance of winning and hope for success or use hardener with a one in maybe two chance of losing and expect to win. OK, sure.

**Note here is that 3M has developed a disposable respirator that can be used in a limited way with hardeners. The part numbers are in threads on the TBN but there are rules to follow when using. It's generally a one-use disposable respirator unless you paint every day. Then it can last a few days.

Free advice here; take it or leave it.