L2800 Adjust Tire Width

[nylla]

I need to adjust the width of my rear tires on a brand new L2800. Should I be able to do this myself? The how-to pictures in the owner's manual leave a lot to be desired. I am assuming, that if I pull the tires off, that it will then be more obvious what I need to do. Anyone want to please offer some guidance? Thanks.

I bought the stablizer upgrade with the tractor. Those big square stablizer bars hit the tires before they spread wide enough to attach my 5' rear mower. Seems like the dealer should have mentioned this with the stablizer upgrade. If he weren't 50 miles away, I'd insist he come do this for me.

Thanks for any advice you have to offer.

allyn

 

[chrisjbell]

Well, I don't know much about the stabilzier upgrade, but on most of the Kubotas there is a pin in the rear axle that you pull out and then you slide the axle in or out. Don't forget to put the pin back in . I've seen the pin break and the axle slide apart on someone else's tractor - you don't want to do that.

 

[wushaw]

R1 tires are adjustable on the rim. How I don't know, I have the non-adjustable R4 tires/rims.

The L2800/3400 do not have the pinch bolt like the B series tractors do.

 

[art]

There are several adjustments that can be made. Some you might just be able to move from side to side. The outer rim can be adjusted to inner and outer as well as the rim disc being in wide or narrow spacing.

 

[TalonDancer]

FWIW R4s can be adjusted a little by flipping the rims on the disks. But I think you have to reverse the tire on the rim and mount it on the other side as well. If your valve stems are on the inside of an R4, they are already adjusted to the widest position.

The rear tires are very heavy even when filled with air. If you had fluids added, they are extremely heavy for one person to manhandle. You will need a heavy duty floor jack and 2 HD jack stands, etc.....

BTW the wheels bolts/nuts on my new L3240 were over torqued (I hate impact wrenches). It took 4 ft of 1" pipe on a 3/4 in T Handle to break them loose

If the dealer sold you the "stabilizer upgrade" and the mower, then he should be willing to make it all work at the same time at his expense.

Talon Dancer

 

[wushaw]

FWIW R4s can be adjusted a little by flipping the rims on the disks. But I think you have to reverse the tire on the rim and mount it on the other side as well. If your valve stems are on the inside of an R4, they are already adjusted to the widest position.

The rear tires are very heavy even when filled with air. If you had fluids added, they are extremely heavy for one person to manhandle. You will need a heavy duty floor jack and 2 HD jack stands, etc.....

BTW the wheels bolts/nuts on my new L3240 were over torqued (I hate impact wrenches). It took 4 ft of 1" pipe on a 3/4 in T Handle to break them loose

If the dealer sold you the "stabilizer upgrade" and the mower, then he should be willing to make it all work at the same time at his expense.

Talon Dancer

The rims R4 on my L2800 are like a car/pu rim...one solid rim and it just bolts to the axle. There is no adjustment unless wheel spacers are added.

 

[TalonDancer]

The rims R4 on my L2800 are like a car/pu rim...one solid rim and it just bolts to the axle. There is no adjustment unless wheel spacers are added.

OOPS. I _assummed_ that all L series would use the same rim design.

FWIW the rear rims on my L3240 are two pieces. A dish which bolts to the axle and a rim which bolts to the dish. The tabs on the rim are slightly off the center line. So you can vary the width a little.

Talon Dancer

 

[nylla]

I don't know R1 from R4, I have the 11.2-24 Farm tires. The book shows 4 width positions from 40.2" to 50.8". After much studyingof pictures, it does appear that you have to remount tire on rim to get two widest options. Which I assume might also mean switch sides, which means both tires off at the same time. Starting to sound more and more like a dealer item.

I looked in the yellow pages for an on-farm tire repair company. Didn't find one. Think I'll take a tape measure down to the barn first and see what they're currently set at.

thanks

 

[woodchuckie]

I've got agriculture tires on mine. I jacked it up from the draw bar area and unbolted tire from dish, rolled it around to the other side and flipped it around so the direction of travel would be correct and bolted it back on. My valve stems are now on the outside. Whatever increased distance that gave me It has made a world of difference in the way it feels on slopes etc.

 

[nylla]

I've got agriculture tires on mine. I jacked it up from the draw bar area and unbolted tire from dish, rolled it around to the other side and flipped it around so the direction of travel would be correct and bolted it back on.

Sounds like exactly what I need to do. I just went and took a good look at the situation. It's fairly obvious what needs to be done, but

How big a jack did you use?

How hard was it to move those tires around? I'm puny.

How hard was it to break those bolts loose?

thanks

 

[RobJ]

It's really not that bad. There are 4 position/combos you have. 2 positions involve flipping the inner rim or disk. The other 2 are to bolt the tire rim to the disk on the inside or the outside. My L2500 manual doesn't clearly show the flipping of the disk in the pictures.

The tires are not that hard to move around, just keep them upright and balanced.

You will need some 1/2" drive tools to remove the nuts and bolts. The rears get tightened to 160ftlbs. Get a buddy to help you.

Good Luck,
Rob

PS, if you look at this picture, you can see my disk is flipped out, but the tire rim is bolted to the INSIDE of the disk. I could actually gain a little more width if I moved the tire rim to the outside of the disk. I would not have to swap the tires to do this. It's on my to do list.

 

[wushaw]

Sounds like exactly what I need to do. I just went and took a good look at the situation. It's fairly obvious what needs to be done, but

How big a jack did you use?

How hard was it to move those tires around? I'm puny.

How hard was it to break those bolts loose?

thanks

I use my 2.5 ton floor jack, even with filled tires it has no problem.
Get a couple of jack stands for safety's sake.

Like RobJ said.... 1/2" impact will make short work out of the lug nuts.

Don't let the tire fall over...it is very heavy.

 

[woodchuckie]

How big a jack did you use? I've got a 3 1/2 ton floor jack.

How hard was it to move those tires around? I'm puny. Being very careful not to let it fall over, it wasn't hard to move around on the carport. If I needed to I just raised or lowered the jack to line up with the hole.

How hard was it to break those bolts loose? Break them loose before you jack it up. I had a torque wrench that made it easy. The first time took it down the road , I heard a clicking sound and had to stop and retighten the nuts.

 

[tcarter1]

What is the "stabilizer upgrade"?

 

[nylla]

What is the "stabilizer upgrade"?

Instead of turnbuckles, you have a flat metal bar that slides inside a rectangular metal piece. Both have lots of holes in them, some holes are actually slots, you have a pin that secures the two pieces together. So you can pull the pin, slide the stablizer bar back and forth to get it on the implement, then pin it. I had an old L2350 and the turnbuckle was a real pain so thought I'd try this "new" approach with the new tractor.

thanks to everyone else for all the advice on the tire width.

allyn

 

[RobJ]

Since nylla brought up the tire width and I needed to carry mine out all the way, here are some pics. I think you can see what is going on withmoving the disk in more and moving to the new position.

Pretty easy, impact wrench makes it easier.

BTW, it seems a whole lot wider, but it's only 3", 1.5" per side. And a quick check with the tape and I'm right at spec....about 50" to the center.