L2800 Position Control (Jerky?)

[clenhart]

I had a 2005 L2800 and had the valve replaced. It was very smooth. I believe the mechanic said the valve they put in was from a Grand L3010. I subsequently replaced that tractor with a 2008 L3400. This tractor has the new factory valve and is much better than the original in the 2005 year model tractor, but is not as smooth as the Grand L replacement valve That was put in my L2800 by the dealer. The only time I really notice the difference is when doing final grading with the box blade. Hope this helps...

 

[paulgwin]

Than you Gents - again this really helps - now I undestand a bit more about the issue than the avg dealer does. (at least the people I get t talk to).

I did drop by the dealer today and looked at the L2800 with intent to buy it. Long story short is the mfg date was mid 2006 to my surprise vs. 2008. I watch the 3pt and the smallest increment I could move the end of the link was no less than .75". If you just moved the 3pt up fast - it would move smooth. But if just trying to raise about 1-4 to 1/2" seemed difficult.

The technician cape out with the "bad" valve affected SN list and this was mfg'd sometime after.

This was w/ 3pt unloaded (no heavy scraper. I didn't want to ask them to put a heavy scraper on because of surprise on the year.

But I will ask for that BB when I settle on the exact one.

 

[jeconn]

I have a 2008 L3400 serial # 883xx with 5.8 hrs on it. It is in the shop right now for a jerky 3ph. It is as bad as the one in the you tube video. I will keep you posted on the outcome. Should be a day or two.

 

[jeconn]

Just got a call from the dealer and it looks like I am getting the run around. They gave me the "economy tractor" excuse and told me that I have the updated valve already. Well, if it is updated then why is it so bad? I am now waiting on a call from the regional rep. I will keep you updated on that also. Anybody have any other suggestions. Is anyone else having this problem with a newer tractor?

 

[ccsial]

Some others had the dealers give the "economy tractor" excuse. You could search for the posts regarding this to see the results since I don't remember.

My point at that time was that you can't grade a drive our use a box blade with that 3PH the way it is. Economy should mean no frills but it still has to be a functional tractor.

If the dealer is a real stinker on this and won't go to bat for you with kubota I'd be concerned about future support.

There have been enough of these valves replaced for no charge that your dealer should be able to figure this out.

Two years ago when I complained my dealer got on the Kubota web site and told me there was a fix and they would order the valve at no charge.

Dealers are not all created equal.

 

[jeconn]

The regional rep gave me the "economy tractor" excuse also. He said, "it's the nature of the beast." Well he has a boss too so I guess I'll keep going up the chain of command until I can get some help. His solution is to upgrade tractors. If I upgrade it will be a different color. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[teg]

If kubota has gone back to the old cheap valves... I will never recommend anyone to buy one. It's not a "standard" tractor with those old valves. Does anyone have video footage from a 2008 L2800/L3400, 3ph in action??? I would really like to see it...

 

[jeconn]

I guess they went back to the old valves. I just got back from the dealer and we looked at a L3400, L2800 and a Grand 3240. The Grand was buttery smooth. The 3400 and 2800 both jumped up in about 1" increments.(All new tractors) I do mean jumped up, not smooth at all. This makes it almost impossible to finish grade something with this tractor. If you use the 3ph much I would not recommend this tractor. I was curious if other "economy" tractors were like this so I stopped by the New Holland dealer on the way home and checked out the T1510 and T1520. Their 3pt was SMOOTH. I guess I bought the wrong color.

 

[teg]

Sorry to disagree with you but "..almost impossible...", No, it's just plain IMPOSSIBLE. I would never buy or recommend ANYONE to buy a new L2800 or L3400 with those jerky valves.

 

[Rockyridge]

I have a jerky L3400 as well.

Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace this valve? Could it be a DIY (with a reasonable amount of mechanical experience) project or is the valve really deep inside of the unit? Does anyone know how long the dealer expects the change to take? That may be an indication of how involved it is.

From reading the posts it sounds like more than one valve can be used for the replacement and some produce better results than others.

Has anyone done their own valve replacement?