LA145 can't start engine

[stevelee8949]

You still need to pressurize the hose to the carb with around 30 psi. You can't do that by blowing into the hose, you'll have to use a compressor. Also, when you turn the key on, does the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb energize with a click? Check to make sure that is also working.

EDIT: For details of carb disassy, follow this link. I thought the problem was trash and disassembled the carb, but the problem came back and I finally found it was the needle valve exactly as justwork suggested.

What is the reason to pressurize the host to carb? to clear the small hole into carb?
I don't have 30psi air compressor, where can I get it?
Thanks,

 

[Garybake]

Because of the alcohol added to fuel these days the rubber(viton) tip on the needle valve (that stops the flow of fuel in the carb when bowl is full) swells and gets stuck in the seat after sitting hot and fuel expands in bowl. You need a little bit more than fuel pressure to unstick it so fuel can fill the carb bowl again. Maybe steal the wifes turkey baster and fill with fuel and stick it in hose to carb and squeeze-(maybe first clamp baster bulb to plastic housing.) or some other hydraulic method.
A wood dowel that slides in fuel hose. Fill hose and shove dowel down hose.
Worst case remove bowl on carb. If you need to do that post update.

PS-
Do not continue to hold the key on if nothing is happening it just heats up the wires and can cause damage. If it is cranking do not hold it more than 10 seconds at a time. Charge the battery overnight and it will recover.
Hope that helps.
Gary

 

[Garybake]

Almost forgot!!!:shocked:
Turn your key to run position not start when trying to unstick needle valve or else you are forcing against a fuel shutoff solenoid :confused2: and a mess.
Gary

 

[jinman]

Almost forgot!!!:shocked:
Turn your key to run position not start when trying to unstick needle valve or else you are forcing against a fuel shutoff solenoid :confused2: and a mess.
Gary

Gary, actually the fuel fills the bowl without going through the fuel solenoid. The solenoid sits at the bottom of the carb and opens the passage from the bowl to the uptake pipe in the carb. By shutting off fuel there, the engine will instantly die. If the fuel is cut off to the float chamber, the engine would continue to run until the float chamber is empty.

Another suggestion for air is one of those little emergency air compressors that runs off the 12 volt cigarette lighter style outlets or some jumper batteries have a built-in compressor. These can produce a lot of pressure, so don't leave it running for very long. A couple of seconds into the carb should do the job. Also, bicycle pumps are a good source of compressed air for this.

 

[stevelee8949]

Can I use the dust remover can spray type? like the one used for clean computer or office equipment? too weak?

 

[stevelee8949]

Jim,

I know you replaced the plastic needle value with the brass one from B&S parts online, but I am not sure which one do I need to order because there are many brass needle value on the website, can you please let me know which one is for LA145? thanks,

 

[stevelee8949]

for example: this web-site has around 5 different needle valve, but I don't know which one matches to LA145??

Briggs and Stratton Carburetor Parts


Thanks,

 

[jinman]

Remember, I said I ordered directly from Briggs & Stratton. Here's their website with your parts. The needle valve is item #105.

You can also order the needle valve from this source. They even show a photo of the brass needle valve and say it replaces an obsolete part (the plastic one).

Knowing your engine's model number can make searching the web for parts a breeze. It's on the engine, but here is the number: 407777-0188-B1. If you type that into Google, you'll get all kinds of folks selling parts. If you go directly to the B&S website here, you can enter the model number and find any part for that engine. B&S prices are competitive to everyone else on the web, so it's really your choice.

Now, I've given you enough info to get into all kinds of trouble. . . just like me.

BTW: I think your pressurized air from the can should work just fine. Give it a try.

 

[Garybake]

Gary, actually the fuel fills the bowl without going through the fuel solenoid. The solenoid sits at the bottom of the carb and opens the passage from the bowl to the uptake pipe in the carb. By shutting off fuel there, the engine will instantly die. If the fuel is cut off to the float chamber, the engine would continue to run until the float chamber is empty.

Thanks Jinman,
I was tired and second thinking advice after reading what a tuff time Steve was having trying to get his grass cut.:thumbsup:
Gary

 

[stevelee8949]

Remember, I said I ordered directly from Briggs & Stratton. Here's their website with your parts. The needle valve is item #105.

You can also order the needle valve from this source. They even show a photo of the brass needle valve and say it replaces an obsolete part (the plastic one).

Knowing your engine's model number can make searching the web for parts a breeze. It's on the engine, but here is the number: 407777-0188-B1. If you type that into Google, you'll get all kinds of folks selling parts. If you go directly to the B&S website here, you can enter the model number and find any part for that engine. B&S prices are competitive to everyone else on the web, so it's really your choice.

Now, I've given you enough info to get into all kinds of trouble. . . just like me.

BTW: I think your pressurized air from the can should work just fine. Give it a try.

what a day!!

first of all, thank you much Jim and Gary....

Today, I cleaned again the carb and spray wd40 on the needle valve and made gas tank empty( because some of gas was last year), and put brand new Octan93 gas, and then looked at carefully all the connection, and found out there was one mis-connection at left-hand side wire bar, so I corrected it by clicking it in the small white color plastic tabbing holder( I guess this wire opens and closed one of the plates in the chamber),
and then turn the starter, but now the battery was almost going to die ( this battery is the brand new one I bought a couple of days ago)...
and engine not started, so I move my car next to LA145 and did battery jumper and eventually engine started!!! WOW!!
so, I asked my wife to remove the jumper cable and I cut lawn this evening....

So, now my question is:

1) battery is dead?
2) why it was not working without jumper, why it worked with boost battery?
3) One and half hours running could energize the almost dead battery?

Thanks,

 

[Garybake]

Congrads stevelee!
1.) Battery is cycled down to a low charge. Not Dead like need replacement.
2.) Because it was weak so was spark at plug (like 9 volts)- Not strong enough electrical arc to ignite fuel/air. (I bet it spun over slow too). Boost battery brought voltage to starter back up to 12 volts and stronger spark electrical jump. (Engine spun faster.)
3.) One and a half hours running is not enough to keep a charge might restart tomorrow but not next week. So you need to charge up the battery on a trickle charger overnight (12 hrs.) to get it back strong. (12 volts)

Jinman may be able to tell you what the misconnection at left hand side wire bar & small white color plastic tabbing holder is all about.
I am happy for you!
Charge up the battery as the longer it is left at low charge the more long term damage it can sustain.
Gary:thumbsup:

 

[jinman]

Today, I cleaned again the carb and spray wd40 on the needle valve and made gas tank empty( because some of gas was last year), and put brand new Octan93 gas, and then looked at carefully all the connection, and found out there was one mis-connection at left-hand side wire bar, so I corrected it by clicking it in the small white color plastic tabbing holder( I guess this wire opens and closed one of the plates in the chamber),
and then turn the starter, but now the battery was almost going to die ( this battery is the brand new one I bought a couple of days ago)...
and engine not started, so I move my car next to LA145 and did battery jumper and eventually engine started!!! WOW!!
so, I asked my wife to remove the jumper cable and I cut lawn this evening....

Steve, I am totally baffled now. I'm not sure of any connections on the "left-hand wire bar." Can you post a photo? Was it on the left when you are standing in front of the mower or when you sitting in the seat? Most electrical connections I've seen are on the right side of the machine down under the area where the PTO switch is located.

As far as the battery. . . I put a new battery from Tractor Supply into my LA145 last year. It worked fine all year and this spring until I let my grandson put the mower away. He somehow shut off the key and then turned it back to the headlight position. We didn't notice because I disconnected the headlight since I never use it. So, the ignition was on and sat for over a week. When I went to start the mower, it did nothing more than click-click-click. I got my battery charger and set it on High Charge Rate. It was charging at 20 amps for about a minute and I hit the start switch. The mower fired right off and I removed the charger. After mowing for about 1 hour I stopped the engine to let my grandson finish. The battery ran the starter just fine and he finished mowing. The total time running was about 2 hours. Just this week, I went to the mower to start it up and the battery was still charged and worked fine. It looks like the TSC battery is gonna be okay and was charged plenty after 2 hours of mowing. BTW: I was upset at my grandson for a second when I found the key in the wrong position, but I thought twice about all the dumb things I'd done as a kid and the anger went away. I just showed him what he had done and told him not to worry because he didn't know and didn't mean to hurt anything.

Oh yes. . . If the battery terminals are dirty a jumper battery may make good contact and start the mower. Then, when you go to start with the battery, it will just click. If that's what happens after mowing, check the terminals for tightness and cleanliness.

 

[stevelee8949]

Steve, I am totally baffled now. I'm not sure of any connections on the "left-hand wire bar." Can you post a photo? Was it on the left when you are standing in front of the mower or when you sitting in the seat? Most electrical connections I've seen are on the right side of the machine down under the area where the PTO switch is located.

As far as the battery. . . I put a new battery from Tractor Supply into my LA145 last year. It worked fine all year and this spring until I let my grandson put the mower away. He somehow shut off the key and then turned it back to the headlight position. We didn't notice because I disconnected the headlight since I never use it. So, the ignition was on and sat for over a week. When I went to start the mower, it did nothing more than click-click-click. I got my battery charger and set it on High Charge Rate. It was charging at 20 amps for about a minute and I hit the start switch. The mower fired right off and I removed the charger. After mowing for about 1 hour I stopped the engine to let my grandson finish. The battery ran the starter just fine and he finished mowing. The total time running was about 2 hours. Just this week, I went to the mower to start it up and the battery was still charged and worked fine. It looks like the TSC battery is gonna be okay and was charged plenty after 2 hours of mowing. BTW: I was upset at my grandson for a second when I found the key in the wrong position, but I thought twice about all the dumb things I'd done as a kid and the anger went away. I just showed him what he had done and told him not to worry because he didn't know and didn't mean to hurt anything.

Oh yes. . . If the battery terminals are dirty a jumper battery may make good contact and start the mower. Then, when you go to start with the battery, it will just click. If that's what happens after mowing, check the terminals for tightness and cleanliness.

I wish I take a picture of it and post here, but I don't have camera now, so I try to explain again, ( sorry for my poor English, I am an immigrant)

Anyway,

it is on the left when I am standing in front of the mower.
left-lower corner, under carb.
it connects to another steel bar(plate, 3~4inch length), hinged at the middle and can move up and down by the another lever which connects to wire...
Then, this wire(more like stick bar made of metal) opens and closes the thing(plate, shaped like two mountains) inside of carb.

BTW,
I went to autozone this morning and bought battery discharger:
Schumacher/1 Amp trickle battery charger (MC-1) | Battery Charger | AutoZone.com

it's a Schumacher/1 amp trickle battery charger, hope this works...

Thanks,

ps, OH! one thing I found out during cutting lawn yesterday evening, engine oils popped out from oil insert tude(black plastic thing where we add oil) due to the yellow cap loose, spinning and opened by itself, I tried to close it but failed, so some of oil fell(drizzle) down to my right foot shoes(toe area) and made it slippery when I press the accelerator pedal...I will cover it(cap) up with some vinyl and cramp it...

 

[Garybake]

( sorry for my poor English, I am an immigrant)

Other than Native Americans we all were.

Sounds like the choke plate and without that it would be hard to start in cooler weather. With a car jump it would spin fast enough (long enough) to run.
(White plastic connector on choke rod???)
Look like this?
Gary

 

[stevelee8949]

Other than Native Americans we all were.

Sounds like the choke plate and without that it would be hard to start in cooler weather. With a car jump it would spin fast enough (long enough) to run.
(White plastic connector on choke rod???)
Look like this?
Gary

Gary,
Right ON!
two mountains and rod ( I should have said ROD)
yes, white plasric thing is #6 in your attachment.

BTW, do you think the battery charger which I bought will work? Would it be ok to leave the connection 24 hours? or should be less than 12hrs?
Thanks,

ps.) I returned the air floor pump( normally for bike) which I bought yesterday to wallmart today since I don't need it, actually I didn't use air pump. I just check the hose and carb entrance tube and they were open so didn't use the pump.

 

[Garybake]

The charger ia a 1 amp charger and 24 hrs is great. It will not overcharge your battery by boiling off the liquid.
So is the part broken or is it hooked up now? I will be online the rest of the evenning.
If broken we can make sure you get the right part and number because you need the choke to get it to start and after it starts it can be slowly opened.
Gary

 

[jinman]

Sorry Steve, I've been away all day and just now see your description. I think Gary has you on the right track. I think you said wire and mean cable. There is the choke cable and the fuel cable both controlled by the levers to the left of the steering wheel. I was thinking electrical and that's why I was so confused. As far as I know, the only electrical connection on the carburetor is the one going to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl. Your comments make perfect sense in relation to the choke. As a matter of fact, I've found that if I shut the mower down and let it sit for 10 minutes or so, I may have to use the choke some to get it started again. It seems that the fuel system is set very lean and needs the choke to start.

I agree with all comments on the charger. It should be the perfect charger for a 24 hour recharge.

 

[stevelee8949]

:licking:

The charger ia a 1 amp charger and 24 hrs is great. It will not overcharge your battery by boiling off the liquid.
So is the part broken or is it hooked up now? I will be online the rest of the evenning.
If broken we can make sure you get the right part and number because you need the choke to get it to start and after it starts it can be slowly opened.
Gary

Gary,
No broken, just I did mistakenly connect wrong and then I found out what was wrong, and corrected it, my mistake was put the rod simply in the middle of white plastic holder, but it(the end of rod) should be put into the center hole of plastic thing....

I will test LA145 maybe sunday after charge done tomorrow night...
I will let you know what happens...
Thanks and have a nice day...

 

[stevelee8949]

Sorry Steve, I've been away all day and just now see your description. I think Gary has you on the right track. I think you said wire and mean cable. There is the choke cable and the fuel cable both controlled by the levers to the left of the steering wheel. I was thinking electrical and that's why I was so confused. As far as I know, the only electrical connection on the carburetor is the one going to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl. Your comments make perfect sense in relation to the choke. As a matter of fact, I've found that if I shut the mower down and let it sit for 10 minutes or so, I may have to use the choke some to get it started again. It seems that the fuel system is set very lean and needs the choke to start.

I agree with all comments on the charger. It should be the perfect charger for a 24 hour recharge.

Jim,
I bought the new battery which I have now, from ACE hardware(local h/w store) and I called him today and asked about my situation regarding battery, then he kindly said he can charge my battery overnight if I bring it to his store...I didn't go yet, but it's so kind...
I think in this world, more GOOD people than bad person...
enjoy your weekend~~

 

[TxJack]

I think I'm having the same problem. Mine would crank, but it just seemed like it wasn't getting fuel. My fuel filter was the original so I thought I'd start there as maybe it was clogged. Went to Lowe's where I bought the lawn tractor and picked up the John Deere brand fuel filter, which was about $6 more than the Briggs....paying for that green paint! The original that came with the mower was a Briggs, I think, but there wasn't really one that looked like a perfect match to the one I took off. The LA145 was listed on the back of the John Deere filter package so I knew it would definitely work.

I replaced it and it just still seemed to not be getting any fuel to the motor. I looked down at the new filter and noticed that NO fuel was being sucked into it. I then sat there and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb "mouth" until it finally turned over. That is when some fuel finally went into the new filter. I am by no means a mechanic so maybe one of you can explain why it wouldn't suck the fuel once I turned the key. Isn't that what the fuel pump is supposed to do when you turn on the key? Do you think my fuel pump might be going out?

I bet stevelee and I are having the same problem. The nice new fuel filter is clear so I can see what is going on. It doesn't fill up much with fuel either. Is that what it is supposed to do? I was able to mow and it seemed to run fine. Only got half the yard done so the true test will be tomorrow to see if it will work again.

The troubles did begin some time back with it getting harder and harder to start and bouts of sputtering. Also lots of blue/white smoke when it finally would start.

Wondering if it might also be that plastic pin that yall have said needs to be replaced with a brass one?