Landscape Rake Build

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#121  
SkunkWerX said:
I use one of these for blasting:
34202.gif


Harbor Freight 40 lb. blaster

It does a good job. I try to use slag as blasting media, whenever I can get ahold of some, great stuff.

Skunk,

Now I will too! I just picked up and assembled my 40 # blaster. Got it for 79.99 in-store special, 20% off.

Tell me more about that Slag you use for blast media, like, what is it? where do you get it, how much? how is it packaged? weight / volume? Can you somehow catch and recycle / re-use it?

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#122  
3RRL said:
Good thing I had my welding helmet on when I looked at your photos.
Great progress Larry. No doubt there is a lot of prep work and set up behind the scenes. That is a big project when you consider all that you're doing. Thanks for keeping us in the loop with the stories and great pictures.
I know how time consuming just that part is, and I appreciate it and I'm sure the others do too.

Thank you Rob,

Yes, very time consuming and as you surmised, allot of prep and setup behind the scenes, but also very rewarding. Like you and many others, I very much enjoy being creative, making something become reality from idea to design, fabrication and overcoming challenges. This is more complicated and time consuming than my dump trailer. Although this rake is smaller in size, the amount of interrelated parts are more challenging for sure. Still, no where near the level of complexity and precision machining required for you to build that gear box for our joint 360* rotating blade project or one of those injection molds you are so famous for. Building this "little" rake humbles me and allows me to appreciate all that much more what goes into making just about anything. You must be going through withdrawals by now with all your machine tools transitioning between Rancho and your beautiful new Log home up there in Three Rivers, you know, the one with the new awesome "Barn" shop.

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#123  
J_J said:
Those welds look right decent. Hope you don't mind if we try and copy come of your projects.

That is very kind of you J.J.

I see you must have had an "adult beverage" so the welds look better to you too ;) Well you can copy anything, just so long as you let me use your plasma cutter when you get it online :D. Are you kidding me, you have a CNC table plasma cutter, just sitting in a box :confused: What in the world is wrong with you man :rolleyes: J/K. OK, so when will you at least see if it works? after the warranty expires? Just a challenge for you to try that thing out.

Thanks for the compliment J.J. and I hope you don't mind the ribbing. I see lucky you has a new Northern Tool store opening, I suppose that could be a blessing or a curse LOL. I like much of what they carry online, But stopped ordering from them due to very poor packaging. Half my stuff was missing because their cheesy boxes and lousy packing tape are almost always destroyed by the time it gets to me.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #124  
Larry,

The "Slag" is a byproduct, it's Coal Slag.

I got mine from a friend who runs a golf course. They use it , not as an abrasive, but for helping to warm the greens in the winter to melt snow when it is sunny out, since the slag is black.

Here is a link for informational purposes only, i haven't dealt with thesre folks:
Slag

Ask any shop that does professional blasting in your area, and they should be able to direct you to a supply of the stuff.

Also, Aluminum Oxide is a very good abrasive "cutter".


Here are some seat of the pants methods I use for recycling blast media:

Spread out a tarp or some clear plastic. Use a piece of plywood as a back stop, but not too close or it will deflect media back at you, think "Sand storm".
Once finished blasting, you will have a good deal of media on the tarp.
The problem is you will also have paint peices, scale, etc.
Pour it through a piece of window screen to get out any larger chunks.
(Don't let your wife know you use her kitchen window screen for other purposes). :D

You will have fine dust in with your media, which makes for cloudier blasting next time around. I have heard of people "washing" their blast media, to rinse out the dust and dirt, then you are looking at a day or so for a drying cycle.

You can also construct a portable/temporary blast "tent" out of 2x2s and clear plastic, just cut some slits/air vents in the back, so the blast media doesn't come back at you. Use a tarp floor to catch the media.

Harbor Freight does have 25 lb. boxes of various blast media, so you could try some Alum Oxide, for example, if they are within a decent proximity.

if you want to blast aluminum, brass and lighter products, you can use walnut shells, corn cob media and such, HF has them also.

The Playsand flows nicely, but keep as much moisture out of the sand and system as possible. We have humid summers here on the east coast, so, I do battle the moisture, which can cause clogs and/or poor flow.

I have seen people use regular construction grade sand for ugly super-rusted pieces. I shy away from it due to it's usual high moisture content. If you have a way to dry the sand, do so before usage. Simply spreadeing it out loosely , over night, in low humidity will do the trick. Then I put it in a used 5 gallon bucket with a sealable lid.

My blast hood is long gone. A used pair of Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile goggles works well, then wrap a T-shirt around your head and face , desert-nomad style. If I need to be up close, I'll grab a small piece of plexi-glass and hold it up to keep some of the blast directed away. Those disposable white "space" jumpsuits also keep media out of your clothes.


Have fun Larry, Blast away!! ;)
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #125  
Also, Safety tip for blasting:

"As a safety precaution please remember that Silica Sand Abrasive Media can be fatal if inhaled. Please consider this factor prior to using that type of media. Always wear protective breathing equipment when sandblasting."


Silicosis of the lungs, not good, avoid it at all costs.
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #127  
J_J said:
This is a new blasting technique that I did not know about. Approved for food service plus a lot of other things.

Dry Ice Blasting - Dry Ice Cleaning Technology - CO2 Blasting

I first learned of this technology back in the early '90's when the engineering company I worked for was doing a conceptual design for a walk-in dry ice blasting booth for DOE's INEL (Idaho National Engineering Lab), a top secret nuclear research facility with lots of nasty stuff up there.
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#128  
The CO2 blaster is very COOL :cool: Somehow I don't think the average home shop dude like me will be using that anytime soon.


Here is the latest progress report for the perpetual rake build...
The Index plate needed some machining, two holes for cylinders needed drilled to 1.00" and the center hole bored out to 2.4375". The bar that holds the rake tines needed two 1.50" id holes to insert some 1.0" ID X 1.5" OD DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) A.K.A. seamless tubing, this will be for cylinder pins. Unfortunately I failed to cut those holes BEFORE welding the darn thing up. So I had to carry it onto the basement and clamp the monstrosity to my machine. It really wasn't that hard to do that ;)





The DOM tubing will be welded in place at a later time.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#129  
Next it was back to the TPH saddle mount. I finally welded on the arms and test fit the 3/4" top link pin and the 1-3/8" hardened chromed pin used for the swivel offset feature.





Short video showing the fit I was able to achieve on those two pins.





I am so relieved those pins fit and slide in out as well as they do. Taking the time to make sure everything was accurate really paid off.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
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#130  
Next is to build a mount for the swivel / offset cylinder. That was an entire project unto it's own, 15 shots of that bad boy. First was to fit a 3/4" thick x 4" wide flat bar into position, transfer holes for the cylinder mount, drill and tap four 1/2-13 holes......





Then cut at a 43* angle to match the angle of the arms. The parts were small enough to into my blast cabinet filled with glass beads. A before and after shot of that......





Re clamp the finished parts into position and weld.....




Larry
 

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