Landscape Rake Build

[Jersey]

Great projects! I just built a rake for my tractor which, by the way was my first project for the tractor. It's not as detailed as yours but its working good. Ill post some pics soon. I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

[3RRL]

Gee Larry, I feel left out.
Seriously though, what a great story this is going to be. Your rake looks like it's all ready to accept the hydraulics and even you gear box to me. I love how you spaced out the tines...they are perfect. Can't wait to see the rest of the build, paint, hook up and videos.
Thanks for another exciting project.

 

[EddieWalker]

Larry,

Nice to see a new twist on building a rake.

With all the abilities of your rear blade, did you consider a way to remove the blade and replace it with a rake? Maybe add the rake to the blade and just lift the blade a little higher?

Eddie

 

[jimgerken]

Larry, yup, combination of hole saw and boring bar. I tried hole saw alone (approx correct size), but the hole location and sloppy fit didnt suit me. So I drilled a locator hole, followed with a hole saw to slightly small size, then bored clear thru both surfaces to get final fit. Most of the joints then required the press to assemble, but a couple just slipped together, with very acceptable location and squareness. I guess it was worth all the boring time. I used the rake two weekends ago, man that thing works SWEET. Supposed to be in the next issue of Farm Show mag. Look for it.

 

[GuglioLS]

Gee Larry, I feel left out.

Rob,
I thought you would be thankful I'm doing all the AutoCAD design and machining instead of you (for a change).

Eddie,
I wanted a stand alone TPH rake as opposed to modifying the 360* rotating back blade. Interesting idea though.

Jimgerken,

Thanks for the come back on using a hole saw followed with a boring bar. Turns out that's exactly what I did. I took another look at your rake build, it made me want to duplicate the articulating motion you incorporated. I sure do like the way the angle of the tines stays square to the line of pull when offsetting the blade. I have decided to duplicate that feature. Of course that will set me back a few steps but no too bad (thanks allot man).

Here is an update -

I got back late Friday from a week long San Diego business trip. Saturday morning I was eager to get back working on this rake project. I only had Saturday to get anything done, so it was pedal to the metal. This is what got accomplished -
The basic rake tine holder was completed a few posts back. Next was to fabricate a stiff mount to attach the rake tine holder with a means of rotating the tine bar around a king pin. The holder is elevated 2" above the tine bar so as to be able to insert all the bolts through the tines. A scrap piece of 2" X 4" X 1/4" wall tube should do the trick.






The last few of photos show the parts mocked up prior to some additional machining and welding that will be detailed in the next couple of posts.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Next was to bore a 2-7/16" hole for the king pin. The work piece was clamped onto the cross slide, index to center then drill a pilot hole. A press fit was desired for the king pin so the next smaller size (2-3/8") hole saw was used. After pushing the hole saw through both sides, a boring bar was used to get the ID under sized by .003" for a press fit.








Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

After completing the hole, one end of the king pin was sawed off to clean it up a bit. After pressing the pin, it was welded into place.





A short video pressing in the king pin:





Notice the "jack hammer" sound from the press? It was recently upgraded with an air over hydraulic actuated cylinder. What a pleasure to operate a press with a simple air valve connected to a compressor.


Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

With the King Pin welded into place, it's time to weld the assembly onto the tine holder bar.......








The index plate has not been welded at this time as there are additional fitting and machining operations yet to be completed. (hint - last minute design change order, thanks to Jim Gerken) In fact I may not even use that fancy schmancy index plate at all as the swivel and rotate will be controlled by hydraulic cylinders.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Time to move onto boom machining operations. I picked up a 48" long 4" X 4" X 3/8" thick tube, it's a monster so a bit of a challenge fitting onto the mini mill / drill / lathe combo unit. Fortunately the drill press is strategically located behind the mill so the drill press table was used to level and support the boom onto the cross slide of the mill. An extra long drill bit was used for a pilot hole clean through both sides of the tube. For the swivel pivot pin, a 1-5/8" hole saw was used that was followed by the boring bar to get the hole ID to 1.660 for another press fit. No pics of that because it was kind of boring.





Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Here are the operations taken to allow the king pin to fit through the boom. The pipe need to be cut, a grease fitting added then welded into place.





That bring the construction phase up to date. I have been experimenting with some cylinder geometry in AutoCAD. I am toying with the idea of having the blade stay at right angles as the boom is offset to one side or the other. Here is the concept of how that is going to work .....


[URL="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Rake%20Build/RakeConceptWGeometryreve.jpg"]
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I have questions for those who have extensive real life experience with a rake.
Do you use it at an angle? If so how effective is it? I would think with the tines at an angle it would act more like a blade than a rake. What about side forces on the tines when they are angled? My thinking is the tines are really designed to operate straight on rather than at an angle, is that true? Do you turn the rake tines backward, then back your tractor raking? How does that work? is it effective? is it worth it to push your rake backward with the tines digging in?

Larry