Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,773  
My little Sophie dog would have turned as green as a grape leaf
rolling around in that fresh grass with her brother big Max.
I miss them both so much!!
I lost my dog Maggie this past saturday. We think she had a stroke. Looked like she laid down and went to sleep. She was only 3 :(
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,774  
Wow, sorry to hear that nova. our condolences
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,775  
Good day Everyone, How is everyone doing today..

I am new to the "Flail Nation".. With having just picked up a old (circa 1963) Mott F4 flail mower.. It does need a lot of work, but i'm not afraid of that. It looks like something most people would just drop off at the scrap yard, but for what i picked it up for ($100 canadian), I could do that and still come out ahead. One thing that needs to be done is to rebuild the 3PH hook up/arms. The unit seems to have been used rather hard and the arms are bent and some welds cracked, and it needs a couple bearings replaced.

So on to my question. I have two tractors i could mount this on. A Kubota B20 and a Zetor 5245.. The Kubota has a claimed PTO output of +-13hp and a class 1 3PH. The Zitor has +-42hp at the PTO and a class 2 3PH. As i need to build new mount arms, i can set it up either way, class 1 or 2..

I know HP is important for running things properly, but I would prefer to set it up to run on the Kubota, as this is a much smaller and lighter tractor, AND my wife would be willing to drive this unit.. Where she steadfast refuses to learn to drive the Zetor.. Or is the low HP of the B20 going to cause me no end of running issues and just bite the bullet and set it up for the class 2 and the Zetor?

I plan on using this unit to maintain a couple fields we have, so +- 15-20 acres of meadow with some very small saplings thrown in for fun, cleaned up a couple times a year..
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,777  
Wow, sorry to hear that nova. our condolences

Thank you. I was a wreck saturday because I thought I'd killed her.

She had ridden with me and our boys to test drive our 5th wheel after I made some suspension upgrades. I thought she got out of the truck with the boys while I parked the camper but she never did. I was replacing ball joints on the truck all day and when I was in and out of the house, I thought she was napping in the back when she was in the truck. I first thought being in the truck all day had killed her.

Then we start talking it through, and I was working 2 feet from where we found her. There was no barking, no scratching, no nothing all day. She would worry you to death if she wanted something. Then my son says, "she wouldn't move for us to get out of the truck when we got home." She was always up on the the console ready to get out when we got home.

I think she was died while we were riding around that morning. Nothing else makes any sense.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,778  
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,779  
I'm thinking of getting a Land Pride FM2560, but it weighs 900+ lbs. That's more tham my JD RC5M hog! and goes for about $6400. It's made in US and there's a dealer about 10 mi away. I'm running a JD 2032r which has a 32 hp engine and about 22 PTO.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #7,780  
Hello BalaamsJackass,

I am not sure but kubota may be importing the MASCHIO brand flail mowers again and if so BRAVO.

The MASCHIO built European made flail mowers have the rear trash door that can be
opened to access the flail mower rotor from the rear of the mower and also allow the
end user to mow in thick very tall brush and quickly eject the clippings without clogging
the flail mower.

You can buy a front weight mounting kit for the 2032 and all the 42 pound suitcase weights
and rear wheel weights to mount on the front to counter the weight of the flail mower
IF YOU DO NOT have a Loader on the 2032.

Having the rear tires loaded with liquid ballast will also help you tremendously.

If you decide to purchase the recutting rakes I will advise you to drill the spring pin holes out to a
larger diameter and use nylock nuts and fine threaded bolts to hold them in place as they will fall
out from the mowers vibration from the brush being recut on the recutting rakes.

You could use a piece of bar stock with bent cotter pins to hold them all in place if you have a drill press
and a drill bit centering vise to drill the 2 holes needed to do this.

It would be simpler to just drill each rake out to a larger diameter and use fine threaded nylock nuts and
fine threaded bolts.
 
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