Rear Finish Mower Limits of a Rear Finish Mower

[Riddler]

I have several acres of pure grassland (i.e., former hay/oat field) that I need to maintain. I hired someone last year to brush hog it, but I was not that thrilled with the closeness or consistency of the cut. Now that I am poised to do my own mowing (I bought a new tractor recently), I was wondering whether a RFM of some type would be better for me than a standard rotary cutter (i.e., brush hog). As it turns out, I am never going to need to mow "brush" or saplings When I have brush or saplings to remove, I prefer to dig them out and either burn or haul the green waste away. Is there some reason why I should not consider a RFM to maintain the areas of "native" grass? No one will ever confuse naturally reseeding hay, oats, weeds, etc. for lawn, but if I don't let it grow too high, won't I get better results with a RFM? The costs of a RFM is much higher than a brush hog, but I happy to invest the extra dollars to obtain a better result.

 

[DocHeb]

I use a Landpride FDR2584 (rear discharge grooming mower) behind my New Holland TC40D similiar mowing use. If the weeds get really high (>3 ft) I have to go slower, but otherwise I don't have any problems. Keeping the blades sharp will help for a cleaner cut, and it is amazing that the shorter you keep it cut, the more it looks like a lawn.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

I have done this with a RFM for several years and like the finished look a lot more. Once you get the growth down to a cutable height and the ground is reasonably smooth it is no problem. Just keep your blades sharp(at least twice a season) and lubricate the mower regularly.

 

[Bird]

I don't know how big "several acres" is, or how smooth or rough the terrain is, nor do I know just how close you want it to look to a neatly groomed lawn, so . . .

I agree with the other guys that you can certainly use a RFM. However, as you said, it costs considerably more than a brush hog, so you'll be putting the wear on an expensive machine. Having seen what many farmers do to pastures with brush hogs in my area, I can understand your concern about the closeness and consistency of the cut. But for my pasture (fairly level, but also pretty rough riding because of the tracks of cattle and such), I used a brush hog, but I also had it set as low as it would go, the blades slightly sharper than original, and I overlapped the passes about 6". The first time I did it, the rancher neighbor who ran his cattle on it said he thought I cut it too short and might kill the grass or at least make it unfit for cattle grazing. However, he soon found that his cattle liked it even better. They like the short, fresh growth better than tall grass, and the pasture survived quite well.

So that would be my preference. Just something else for you to consider.

 

[Riddler]

Thanks for the helpful comments. One other thing, is $2,400 too much to pay for a new 72" RFM like a Land Pride FDR25 or a Rhino FM?

 

[Bird]

I know lots of other guys are more up to date on prices than I am. I bought a new Bush Hog 60" finish mower for $1,695 in 1999. So 6 years later, and mowers that are 12" wider . . . just a guess, but I'd say you're in the ballpark.

 

[garbageman]

I paided 1900 for a 60" Befco two years ago.
Ray

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I paid 1900 for a 60" Befco two years ago.
)</font>

I got my 60" Befco when I bought my tractor. The replacement price I got (in southern York County) was about $1800.

These are very robust mowers. I wholeheartedly recommend Befco. I would love to replace my 60" unit with a 72" unit (got a more powerful tractor now), but cannot justify it to the CFO.

 

[caylor]

How often would you mow it? How many is several acres? I know that setting my rotary cutter to its lowest level (I think 3") and keeping the blades sharp really makes a difference in the look of the cut. In my opinion, I would use a rotary cutter instead of a RFM, and just keep my rotary cutter's blade sharp. But it all depends on your situation, if you want to give some more info., we can help you out a little better. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Riddler]

Caylor, the former areas of hay/oats occupy around eight acres. They are relatively smooth (I can the run the Kawasaki Mule through them at a nice clip without getting tossed out). No other vegetation (e.g., brush or saplings) are an issue in these areas. There are few if any exposed rocks of any meaningful size.

I admit that I won't know until I start how a RFM will fare in these open areas. My plan is to start with one small area at a time, keep the height as high as possible at first, and rake and inspect the area thoroughly before I start decreasing the cutting height. I know that this won't guaranty that the RFM does not land in the shop, but I am hoping that I minimize the stress and strain enough so that it survives the initial cutting phase in good shape. Once the areas are in more reliable condition for closer cutting, I am rather confident that they will stay that way. This may seem like a lot of effort upfront, but these areas are very much a part of the inhabited part of the property. Their appearance adds a lot to the use and enjoyment of the place. I hope I have this figured correctly.

 

[_RaT_]

I also have a 84" Landpride mower. I never sharpen the blades and quite frankly notice little difference with new ones over the ones that wore out and get replaced. It's amazing what a dull blunt edge can still do to a blade of grass. I much prefer my 84" finnish mower over my 80" Woods brush mower.

 

[BB_TX]

Don't know how yours looked after the guy cut it, but here is an attachment to show how mine looks after cutting with an inexpensive (~$550) rotary cutter. Not quite like a front lawn but not bad. Like Bird, I just lower it about as low as it will go.

 

[Bird]

Here's an old picture of my pasture. I had the front of the mower barely off the ground and the rear one notch higher.

 

[have_blue]

You can do a pretty good job with a rotary cutter if it's set up correctly and the blades are kept sharp. Whether using a RC or a RFM, the key is to not let the grass grow too long between cuttings. Don't misread me, a RC will never do as pretty of a job as a RFM... at least not up close. However, if you stand back a bit, it's nearly impossible to tell the difference. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

As others have said, RC's are a lot cheaper, require less maintenance, and are a lot more durable. Unless you figure you would never be happy with the job a good sharp RC will do, I would go that route.

 

[caylor]

After reading your profile, it looks like you already have a 6' Rhino RC. Why not try it out on the pasture and see what the results are then decide if quality of cut is insufficent enough to justify the cost of the RFM.

Your logic on using the RFM sounds good. I think all the posts so far have given you a lot of info to think about. Thanks to Bird and BB_TX for the pictures to give Riddler another perspective on RC cutting quality!

 

[Riddler]

If I had hired Bill or Bird last time, I might not be looking at doing the job myself now!!

At one point a few months back, I was poised to take delivery of a 6' Rhino RC, but I paused to think about this RC v. RFM issue. I am reminded that I need to edit my profile.

I don't plan to let the grass grow too long (famous last words). In addition to that, the other factor weighing in favor of the pricer RFM (or even a flail) is that the Mrs. is convinced that they will produce better results than a less expensive RC. Like the good politician who makes sure that he always spends his budget (and then some), I am reluctant to persuade her that we should limit ourselves to a RC (even if there is a decent chance I could sell her on the results). If the boss really wants a RFM or flail, whom am I to stand in the way??!!

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> the Mrs. is convinced that they will produce better results than a less expensive RC.</font>

And few here would dispute that I would bet.

My RFM when I had one on the back of my B2910 Kubota cut my yard (no lawn here) nearly as well as my BX2200 with MMM does.

The biggest issue is whether you are going to beat the RFM to death trying to make it do what a rotary cutter is designed to do: Cut brush and tough stuff.

If your desire is to cut GRASS as nice as possible, and especially if you are going to cut regularly, well...if it were me...I would go with a RFM. It really is the best tool for the job if the job is crass cutting of the "lawn type" so to speak.

Mine was a rear discharge and I liked it a lot, except for some minor issues related to cutting around and close to things on the small area of grass that I was cutting.

One issue that does come to mind though is surface roughness. If the surface is so rough that the mower is going to be scalping all the time, then a RFM is probably not the way to go. Too hard on it and the blades. If that is the case it would seem to me that the rotary cutter would be the right option. Perhaps at least until after all the high spots were trimmed off... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[caylor]

If you don't have a mower at all and the CFO is willing to let you spend your budget on the RFM, I say GO FOR IT. Good luck and happy cutting. Keep us posted on your progress mowing the pasture and your input on the RFM vs RC debate.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( don't plan to let the grass grow too long (famous last words )</font>

The nice thing about the rotary cutter is that I cut Johnson Grass, that was talller than my head when I was sitting on the tractor, for a neighbor and used the same setting on the rotary cutter to cut it just as short as my pasture. You won't do much of that with a finish mower. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif And when I ran over some 2 x 4s in tall grass, it just made kindling out of them without hurting the rotary cutter. You probably won't do much of that with a finish mower either. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[BB_TX]

<font color="blue"> ran over some 2 x 4s in tall grass, it just made kindling out of them </font>
Don't I know what you mean. Just last weekend I was cleaning out an overgrown fence row. I cut all the low hanging limbs so I could drive under the tree canopy. Any limbs larger than 4" or so, I cut into firewood size length. Then I dragged all the rest plus all the deadfall from the last ice storm to a burn pile. Hooked up the rotary cutter to mow down all the brush and vines that had also grown there. Guess what I forgot to pickup first. Those 4" plus size logs certainly made a racket when the cutter went over them. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif No damage to the cutter and the logs were splintered into several pieces.