Linear actuator for power SSQA?

[Fallon]

Ah, I see. Makes sense to me. Might even think about that for my next machine as I'm thinking about getting a diverter or 3rd function. Manual 4th function in there wouldn't be much more.

 

[joefromga]

Doesn't having to open and then later,close the valve add an extra step?

 

[Fallon]

Only need to open or close those levers IF you are hooking or unhooking something requiring a 3rd function, in which case you are getting off anyway. Otherwise you just leave the valve open to the SSQA actuator is now how I understand it.

 

[4570Man]

My SSQA doesn't always drop into place correctly. I usually have to get off and jump on the bucket edge or pallet fork tips to get it on. I don't think I would like this setup. I don't see it as being much of a timesaver anyway. It adds about 45 seconds for me to get off the tractor twice. It would take me a couple hours to get something fabricated to do it.

 

[joefromga]

Having a cab would make it a pita for sure. Of you had a switch down there to close after you switch the valve that would be sweet.

Or auto connect hydraulics if there is such a thing. That would be fantastic

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

My SSQA doesn't always drop into place correctly. I usually have to get off and jump on the bucket edge or pallet fork tips to get it on. I don't think I would like this setup. I don't see it as being much of a timesaver anyway. It adds about 45 seconds for me to get off the tractor twice. It would take me a couple hours to get something fabricated to do it.

I'd first spend the couple hours adjusting the SSQA to drop in properly. I know alot of you guys have a ton more experience with them than I do but I've never had one that I couldn't get to drop into place with a jiggle of the curl circuit. Once that is fixed, spend the couple hours fabbing something up. I converted my pin-on style to hydraulic and will NEVER be without it again. I'd give up BOTH my hydraulic top link and the thumb on the backhoe before going back to a manual QA

I used method very similar to what roadhunter is describing except that I bought a valve like this: 16 GPM 6-Way, 2-Position Selector Valve | Princess Auto that diverts both lines at the same time

 

[Fallon]

I always tilt things back, lift the loader a bit & jiggle both the lift & curl, makes sure things are seated pretty good most every time.

 

[Jim Timber]

Nope. I do not get off the tractor unless the implement requires hydraulic hoses be hooked up with is no different than the electric actuator. I get on and off the tractor the same number of times as Fallon does when changing implements.

If switching between forks and bucket neither I or Fallon get off the tractor. I push/pull a lever in the cab and he pushes a switch. Mine takes a second to engage and the electric likely takes much longer.

If switching between an implement that requires hydraulics both fallon and I have to get off to hook/unhook hoses, I simply close/open 2 valves when I am standing there hooking up or disconnecting hoses. Takes no time or effort at all.

The benefit is using your existing hydraulic system as opposed to zip tying wires all over the place between the battery, switch, and down the loader arms to the actuator. This way makes for a very clean and simple installation. But if you prefer the electric method, by all means knock yourself out. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat as they say.

I have the same configuration as you're describing, only I have another electronically actuated diverter where you have ball valves. No getting off for anything but to connect/disconnect hoses on my grapple. It's nice!

 

[aeblank]

I'm with Fallon and am a fan of the actuator. Seems cleaner and more compact (to me, anyway). Either way though, I love these things and can't wait to get mine going! Too many projects, so little time.

 

[4570Man]

I'd first spend the couple hours adjusting the SSQA to drop in properly. I know alot of you guys have a ton more experience with them than I do but I've never had one that I couldn't get to drop into place with a jiggle of the curl circuit. Once that is fixed, spend the couple hours fabbing something up. I converted my pin-on style to hydraulic and will NEVER be without it again. I'd give up BOTH my hydraulic top link and the thumb on the backhoe before going back to a manual QA I used method very similar to what roadhunter is describing except that I bought a valve like this: 16 GPM 6-Way, 2-Position Selector Valve | Princess Auto that diverts both lines at the same time

Why? Those are both much more useful.