Loader mounted post hole digger??

[J_J]

hunt4570

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 11.1 gal [42.0 L]
Valves: 2 to 3
Pump flow: 8.3 gpm [31.4 lpm]
Total flow: 13.2 gpm [50.0 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.9 gpm [18.5 lpm]

Your Kubota has enough hyd to do what you want.

The flow rate will determine the speed of the auger.

The power developed will be determined by the load on the auger.

If you use down pressure, the the auger speed decreases.

If you use the 4n1 control for the auger, you will have to either hold the lever or bungee the lever.

You could install a 3rd function valve and switch the auger on or off, and use the engine speed to regulate the pump GPM's for the auger.

 

[hunt4570]

Well as much as I'd like to get a loader mounted PHD they are just too much more than a 3ph unit to justify the expense. My ground is mostly sandy soil anyway so it isnt hard to dig, I was looking at these more for location accessibility anyway.

Will probably get a 3 point unit from Tractor supply up the road and save my money for a grapple.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Fortunately, I had already run hoses with flat face couplers from the rear remotes up to the FEL arms to run my grapple, so that part of the cost of adding the hydraulic auger was already taken care of. There are a number of different manufacturers of relatively low-flow augers; I got the Belltec NC150 with 9" and 15" augers NC150 | Belltec Industries Inc. As others have noted, down force and reverse are both BIG pluses.
I am thinking of adding an FEL video camera to let me see the exact point where the auger tip meets the ground; on my DK45, the hood and cross-arm of the FEL obscur my view of that spot.

 

[ultrarunner]

If I had the AUX rear on my Deere 110 I would have invested in a hoe mounted auger... my terrain is hilly and being able to reach the exact spot in many cases would only be possible with the reach of my backhoe...

No thumb so no aux hydraulics.

 

[bindian]

I made my Danuser Hyd. auger to use on my backhoe. Then when I installed a diverter valve for my grapple, I made a loader bucket side mount. After using both locations..................loader bucket locations don't work for me. Your farther from the auger and................most importantly...............you can not use your bucket to haul posts and equipment..............because the bucket is about 6 foot off the ground when the auger is attached!
I love it on back because I can see from a higher angle and poke two holes with out moving. It is easier to adjust the backhoe boom and dipper stick then a front mounted auger, where you have to creep the tractor a little aft when the auger is going it.........to keep plumb. I have used a PTO 3PH auger and hated it.

hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

A backhoe auger also allows you to dig and install poles without removing the auger.

hugs, Brandi

 

[countrybumpkin]

I like the back hoe mount, very nice. Plus you could add a extension to dig deeper holes if need be.

 

[KYDan]

Finally, after years of using a 3 point hitch PHD and constantly using a spud bar and lots of back breaking hours pounding rocks, welding on augers, and replacing bits due to the Eden shale and clay soil here. I ordered a hydraulic drive and rock auger from Belltec. I checked all this out at the NFM earlier this month. Yes, it is expensive, but what is your back worth! I also ordered the puff bit for aiding with the driving of studded T posts. It is a loader mount system and I am adding the Land Pride 3rd function valve so I don't have run lines to the rear of the tractor. I have about a mile of fence and this should really speed things up. The last 2 holes I dug took 2 days! If I continued to use the 3pt. mount auger, which has been a really good one I would be dead before I finished the fence. I should get it done just about when the cattle market will tank!

 

[woodchipper]

Bindian: great set up, and thanks for sharing your very explicit pictures. If you would have a fence line to put up, then I am sure you would switch it to the front bucket side. The Danuser brand is affordable. Using hydraulics comes in handy when stuck in the hole, using reverse.
I have a 3pt hitch mounted auger. It works great if you have only a few holes to dig. It is slow gowing, and getting precisely on the right spot is certainly more difficult. Also, it is very difficult for one person to mount the unit on the tractor, and consequently removing it. Alslo the 3pth up stroke could be barely enough for clearing the ground...

 

[mwilber]

I bought a Lowes front mount auger at the start of a project that involved about a mile and a half of new fence using bodarc (hedge/osage orange) corners, braces and a line post every 100ft. The ground was mixed. about half of the holes could be dug 3 1/2' deep and never hit a rock. Other parts were an adventure. Small rocks, big rocks, roots from previous trees.
My summary is that in big rocks and roots you will stall out the tractor hydraulics. The reverse feature is nice here. The down pressure is good but it still won't go down if the auger isn't turning (stalled out). My tractor is a Kubota 5740 and I assume that my hydraulic pressures are working at capacities they should, but when it got tough the auger would stall.
All in all, I'm not dissatisfied, maybe just a little disappointed. A real labor saver and much better placement of the auger without having to turn around so much (really nice feature for the fat guys with arthritic necks out there!) I would do it again. Also, buy the carbide replacement teeth, Its worth the extra cost.

 

[bindian]

Bindian: great set up, and thanks for sharing your very explicit pictures. If you would have a fence line to put up, then I am sure you would switch it to the front bucket side. The Danuser brand is affordable. Using hydraulics comes in handy when stuck in the hole, using reverse.
I have a 3pt hitch mounted auger. It works great if you have only a few holes to dig. It is slow gowing, and getting precisely on the right spot is certainly more difficult. Also, it is very difficult for one person to mount the unit on the tractor, and consequently removing it. Alslo the 3pth up stroke could be barely enough for clearing the ground...

If I had a line of posts to put in............I'll just have my helper pull up enough for me (on the backhoe) to plant a new hole with the backhoe. Swinging the backhole is easier that turning the front tires to get lined up on the hole to be, in my opinion. Guess it also depends on the loader bucket's width. I got a 7 foot bucket and it just doesn't work for me.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I like the back hoe mount, very nice. Plus you could add a extension to dig deeper holes if need be.

Thanks. I like it very much. I have a 1 foot extension on it............but I should have bought a 2 foot extension.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ultrarunner]

Brandi... where did you tap into the hydraulics for the backhoe mount?

Also, do you know how many gpm and the model of the auger?

 

[bindian]

Brandi... where did you tap into the hydraulics for the backhoe mount?

Also, do you know how many gpm and the model of the auger?

My backhoe is powered off of the rear remote with a bolt on lever to hold the remote handle.

It's a Danuser 8300-2. It requires 8 gpm.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ultrarunner]

My backhoe is powered off of the rear remote with a bolt on lever to hold the remote handle.

It's a Danuser 8300-2. It requires 8 gpm.
hugs, Brandi

Wow... never expected such a quick reply.

I think you have the ideal set up and did a great job making it all work.

My Deere doesn't have AUX rear hydraulics... I do have AUX on the front which are rated a little less... mostly for skid-steer type implements...

With long enough lines I could tap into the front... then I would need to figure out something to control since the AUX for the front is meant to be used facing front.

 

[TomSeller]

I have the Danuser Pro series 1025H rated at 2354 ft lbs torque. Right now there aren't enough manufacturers making hydraulic augers in my opinion. There really isn't enough difference between a hydraulic motor and a PTO gearbox to justify the cost difference. The alternate of adding a hydraulic motor to a typical gearbox style makes a lot of sense.

Brandi has the ultimate in flexibility with being able to have the auger on the FEL or on the backhoe. I use the FEL for the auger and the backhoe to lower my fenceposts into the ground. But I make concrete posts that weigh 500 lbs a piece, not something that can be dropped in the hole by hand.

 

[bindian]

Wow... never expected such a quick reply.

I think you have the ideal set up and did a great job making it all work.

My Deere doesn't have AUX rear hydraulics... I do have AUX on the front which are rated a little less... mostly for skid-steer type implements...

With long enough lines I could tap into the front... then I would need to figure out something to control since the AUX for the front is meant to be used facing front.

Thanks!
Just get two rear remotes put on it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I have the Danuser Pro series 1025H rated at 2354 ft lbs torque. Right now there aren't enough manufacturers making hydraulic augers in my opinion. There really isn't enough difference between a hydraulic motor and a PTO gearbox to justify the cost difference. The alternate of adding a hydraulic motor to a typical gearbox style makes a lot of sense.

Brandi has the ultimate in flexibility with being able to have the auger on the FEL or on the backhoe. I use the FEL for the auger and the backhoe to lower my fenceposts into the ground. But I make concrete posts that weigh 500 lbs a piece, not something that can be dropped in the hole by hand.

Tom,
Have you had any posts rot out?:thumbsup::confused3:
hugs, Brandi

 

[TomSeller]

Tom,
Have you had any posts rot out?:thumbsup::confused3:
hugs, Brandi

I only get about 8 to 10 years on cedar posts and 20 years on RR ties. I only use concrete posts on end caps and corners, then use steel T posts in between. But, no I have not had any concrete posts rot off yet. Some of my land has been in the family 160 years and I figure I would put a stop to the endless replacing of hundreds and hundreds of corner end posts. Funny story is that my grandfather used to pound his fence posts in with a sledge hammer. True story. He stood on top of a hay wagon and pounded the posts in.

 

[bindian]

I only get about 8 to 10 years on cedar posts and 20 years on RR ties. I only use concrete posts on end caps and corners, then use steel T posts in between. But, no I have not had any concrete posts rot off yet. Some of my land has been in the family 160 years and I figure I would put a stop to the endless replacing of hundreds and hundreds of corner end posts. Funny story is that my grandfather used to pound his fence posts in with a sledge hammer. True story. He stood on top of a hay wagon and pounded the posts in.

Wow..........Y'alls cedar is sure different than ours. Years ago, Dad andI helped my Uncle rebuild his catch pen. He told me the posts had been in the ground 30 years. We just moved them to make a bigger pen, turned them unside down and replanted them.
hugs, Brandi