Loader Valve / Curl function diagnosis

Leejohn · Sep 16, 2015

Well that thought went down the drain. Is the relief opening when you try the dump?

GPintheMitten · Sep 16, 2015

Yes. I hear a rattling sound immediately when the pressure is applied when trying to dump.

Leejohn · Sep 16, 2015

Then I would say the galley has to be blocked somehow.

GPintheMitten · Sep 16, 2015

I pulled both spools. I could see nothing wrong with then to the naked eye. Nothing scored, no junk. I put hem back in and attached the lines. Same bad behavior.

Waiting for my new used control.valve to arrive.

GPintheMitten · Sep 17, 2015

I received the used valve today. It was shipped by Marshall Machinery but I bought it from All States AG Parts. The box had a LOT of dirt in it. The valve body had dirt all over it. It looked like they dug it up out of a swamp. Someone attempted to put plastic caps in the ports but the caps were too large so they were bent in and didn't seal well. I hope the inside isn't too dirty.

In addition, the ports are not exactly in the same position but appear to be close. This was my whole reason buy and genuine Kubota part so that I wouldn't have to redo the hard line banjo fittings. I'm not real happy right now. But I may try and attach it tomorrow.

What would be a good way to attempt to flush the interior out?

LD1 · Sep 17, 2015

No way I would put that thing on my hydraulics to try to save 20% vs the cost of a new exact fitting valve.

I vote send it back.

Leejohn · Sep 17, 2015

All States AG Parts sure has class. Over priced used parts and can't even take a air tank and blow it off before pulling off. If this works what are going to do with the old valve?

GPintheMitten · Sep 18, 2015

Leejohn said:
All States AG Parts sure has class. Over priced used parts and can't even take a air tank and blow it off before pulling off. If this works what are going to do with the old valve?

After some discussion, emails, pictures sent, I'm sending the product back and getting all my money back. All States AG Parts was actually good about it. The problem is that they didn't have the part themselves but they found the part at Marshall Machinery in Honesdale PA. Marshall shipped it directly to me. Marshall guy put it in an oversized box with a bunch of compost or dirt whatever in the bottom of the box. And the yellow plastic covers over the ports did not seal completely. I'm sure during shipping the dirt was thrown all over the valve.

Marshal won't pay for return shipping ($20) but All States Ag Parts will refund everything I paid them. All States Ag did offer to take it back, clean everything in their parts washer, paint it and ship it back to me, but I told him thank you but I want to just return it. So that's what I'm doing.

Next, I'll take my valve into the local Kubota parts dealer and have them match it exactly so all the hardlines will just bolt back up. If they can't guarantee that, Ill take JJ's suggestion and just get a universal valve for $200 to $250 and replumb as necessary.

The saga continues.

GPintheMitten · Sep 18, 2015

JJ or anyone else, I'm considering buying a universal loader valve with joystick from Surplus Center for approx $250 or so depending on which one.

I am looking at this one

2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

and at this one

2 SPOOL 10 GPM WALVOIL SDM102 JOYSTICK LOADER VALVE

Would either be better than the other?

The second one above (9-8583) specifically mentions it has load checks. The first one above (9-7401) does not mention load checks. Does it have load checks.

What is involve in cutting my current banjo fittings off, and converting to flared fittings to connect to the working ports that will obviously be in different orientation and position?

I think the actual size of either valve will fit in the same general location but I expect to have to do some steel work to mount it. And I expect to have work to do on the joystick itself. I can do those things but I've never worked with flared hard lines before.

Thanks.

J_J · Sep 18, 2015

The only difference I see, is the first valve has regen.

Both valves have load checks.

Regen provides a fast dump.

Just find the compression fittings for the line size, cut the line and adapt hoses and fittings to fit.

Pump flow will go to the IN port.

Install a PB adapter and run that line to the 3pt input line.

Tank line goes to tank/return line.

Set the FEL relief to the tractor specs.

ch1ch2 · Sep 18, 2015

You can not cut off the ends if you had to ask.
This is shop work and a lot of shops will not work on used hoses.
You do not want the contaminates in your hydraulic lines.
Just buy adapters to convert your hose fitting to the part you want to attach to.

GPintheMitten · Sep 18, 2015

Thanks guys. I'm going to bring a hard line to the local hydraulic shop so he can determine what size fittings. He said he would help me get the job done right

GPintheMitten · Oct 4, 2015

Update. My loader now works. I bought this valve from Surplus Center.2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

I took my tractor to the local hydraulic shop. He allowed me to work with him. I removed the wheel, fender, right side backhoe subframe, and right hand floor board to expose the lines and valve which is located behind the wheel on the side of the transmission housing.

We mounted the new valve in the same location. We removed the 4 loader hardlines and he made hoses to replace them up to the quick disconnects at the loader frame.

He cut the supply hardline and put in a compression fitting and short hose. At the same time I replaced all 4 quick disconnects.

Today my son in law helped me put all the parts back on and we brought it home.

I'm glad I have my loader back.

One thing I still need to do is switch which spools the 2 functions are on. The float is on the bucket instead of the boom.

If I switch the hoses the joy stick will work wrong than normal. Meaning forward and back will govern the curl and left and right will operate the boom up and down.

So question. Can I just switch the cans on the loader to switch float and regen?

Leejohn · Oct 4, 2015

You still should be able to switch hoses around to get what you want. I just looked the instruction and I see what you mean, did you see how to change it.

GPintheMitten · Oct 4, 2015

Leejohn said:
You still should be able to switch hoses around to get what you want. I just looked the instruction and I see what you mean, did you see how to change it.

The instructions include a sheet to change the joy stick from "A" to "A1". Does that change the orientation of the joy stick?

Leejohn · Oct 4, 2015

Just from left side outlets to right side outlets. Is your valve mounted sideway or flat?

GPintheMitten · Oct 4, 2015

It is sideways against the transmission with the working ports to the right.

I've been studying the instructions for A to A1. I think that's what I need to do. That and switch the hoses.

GPintheMitten · Oct 4, 2015

Does that seem right to you?

Leejohn · Oct 4, 2015

Yes the valve comes set for the work port going out to the left. Here thelink that I seen it at.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-7401.pdf

GPintheMitten · Oct 5, 2015

Ok. Thanks. Earlier when we were doing all this work I didn't take the time to figure out what they were talking about on the joystick A vs A1 configuration.

I'll change it and report back.