Log splitter build

[2458n]

My splitter has no table or log lift the hitch is behind the wedge. It gets thrown on the ground and the beam is only six inches above ground level at the low en d. The ground acts like my splitting table and resplits are easy to obtain. Really could use a four way with all the dead ash trees. Have another splitter someone else built for parts and have bought enough pieces at auction to build a couple more. Seems like people buy the 24x4 inch cylinders and save them in the garage until they die. I am sure my auction will have at least one. Splitting one foot length wood is not going to tear your mount off-if it does and you have a welder fix it. These things are a learning process, and yours looks great.

 

[/pine]

Not really a wrong way to build one.Everyone is different. Build one that suites you, and is ergonomic for you. And if built well with quality components it will bring decades of good use

Just for some diversity (*I'll be reviving my thread on the topic soon*) so just a couple of pics +...

+: I set this up temporarily as a stationary unit...I'm currently running it off my Ditch Witch* or tractor...my plan is to make it a mobile unit...along with a knuckle boom arm that will either attach to the mobile rig or to a 3PH...I made the log lift to use before I get to the knuckle boom...and I made it vertical (not just to be different)...so it is entirely out of the way when extracted...I could not ask for a more ergonomic rig...either with one or two people splitting...

 

[deanwerden]

This thread is dying quickly haha today I shortened some pins for the 4 way wedge cylinder and finished the leg. I need to get a jack and coupler for the tongue add a support to the engine plate, the support for the wedge tube and then she will be in action

Pic for the he'll of it

 

[CADplans]

This thread is dying quickly haha

You AIN'T no where near DONE!!

We need FULL DETAILS on what you are going to do to paint the splitter,,,

I have my project on hold waiting for your painting details!! :thumbsup:

MORE! MORE! MORE!

:laughing:

 

[deanwerden]

This splitter will probably not get painted until next year, I'll leave it bare metal Incase I want to add or subtract anything and the paint sticks to rust better than millscale. It will be black tremclad with red rams most likely

 

[ovrszd]

You AIN'T no where near DONE!!

We need FULL DETAILS on what you are going to do to paint the splitter,,,

I have my project on hold waiting for your painting details!! :thumbsup:

MORE! MORE! MORE!

:laughing:

What year's ur IH?? Love those tractors!

 

[CADplans]

What year's ur IH?? Love those tractors!

I think it is a 1981,,,

 

[deanwerden]

 

[deanwerden]

 

[deanwerden]

 

[deanwerden]

Still have to make some axle stubs but it is good enough to try out for now. I'm very happy with how this turned out. Almost looks like I knew what I was doing

 

[ovrszd]

Looks very good. Use will tell the truth.

Understand that when you elevate the four way knife you also raise the point of maximum pressure. This translates to tremendous pressure on your I-beam and all your support elements of the knife. Did I mention tremendous pressure?? Success is dependent on the cylinder force being less than the breaking point on the knife. :thumbsup:

 

[muddstopper]

I really like The looks of the splitter. Only thing I see that I think is questionable is the edges on the wedges. I personally like for the edges to be a little sharper. On 1 in thick plate, I like to sharpen the edges back about 1-1 1/2 inches on each side. If i am only sharpening one side of the blade, I like to taper it back about 2 inches. This give a much sharper knife edge and it helps slice thru those hard knots and crotches that dont like to just bust. I have used my splitter to shear wood that is to long to fit on the beam and you cant do that with a short, blunt knife edge on the cutting blade.

 

[deanwerden]

I was just thinking that, I think these need to be sharper. I have aboit a 90 degree included angle and wood seems to be just popping and flying everywhere not even getting into the 4 way. I did stall it out on the 4 way tho and nothing seems to have bent or broken, Its getting dark now I will Sharpen these up in the morning and have another go. Also I am splitting wood that we cut last year, does that make it more prone to popping?

 

[ovrszd]

By looking at your pile, I think you've started with very easy to split wood. That's a good thing. Try to find the issues before they explode.

 

[deanwerden]

Its mostly ash and all bush trees so they are pretty straight, I only cut trees that I know will be easy to split and easy to handle, why make more work for yourself haha

 

[murphy1244]

By looking at your pile, I think you've started with very easy to split wood. That's a good thing. Try to find the issues before they explode.

Does look like ash or some other straight grain wood.

 

[LD1]

I like that you tied the top of the wedge in with the 4-way tube, as was suggested earlier. That was another point of concern of mine but didn't mention it since it was already brought up

 

[deanwerden]

The top of the wedge is only 3/16 plate so there's only about 3 threads in it so that might have to change eventually but it is holding for now

 

[muddstopper]

I was just thinking that, I think these need to be sharper. I have aboit a 90 degree included angle and wood seems to be just popping and flying everywhere not even getting into the 4 way. I did stall it out on the 4 way tho and nothing seems to have bent or broken, Its getting dark now I will Sharpen these up in the morning and have another go. Also I am splitting wood that we cut last year, does that make it more prone to popping?

I think once you get those blades a little sharper, yo will stop having popping pieces flying everywhere and not have as much stalling on the 4way.I think you can see the angle I used on my 6way in this pic