3-Point Hitch Log splitter dilemma

[navynuke]

I am trying to get some good recommendations on how to tackle the installation of a 3ph mounted logsplitter. I have been looking at a ramsplitter 20T version, but don't know how to best install it based on my existing hydraulic setup. The attached pictures are of my BL7303 rear remote for the BL2664 snowblower's hydraulic chute & deflector. Should I install a separate set of rear aux hydraulics (if it's even possible) or connect the log splitter to the BL7303? How would I go about either? Thanks folks.

 

[Rustyiron]

If you havn't bought it yet, I've allways believed that the tractor has a much more important job it could be doing while splitting wood rather than just replaceing a $400 gas motor. (feeding and removing from the splitter)

 

[Ductape]

If you havn't bought it yet, I've allways believed that the tractor has a much more important job it could be doing while splitting wood rather than just replaceing a $400 gas motor. (feeding and removing from the splitter)

I agree................

But..... you can A) Use your existing valve to feed the splitter by using a bungee cord or other device to hold the valve open (so the valve on the splitter is getting a constant flow), or B) install a 'power beyond' loop, the same as you would do if you were adding a backhoe.

 

[CHDinCT]

I see no issue hooking it up to your existing remotes. The only issue is that you will have to use a bungee cord or some other means to hold the valve open so there is a continuous flow of oil to the splitters valve. The hydraulic oil will flow through your existing valve out to the work ports, through the splitters valve and back to the tank. When you pull the splitters valve, oil will be diverted to the ram to operate it and then back to the tank. I would neutral the tractor's valve (remove bungee) before using the 3PH or FEL as a precaution. I basically had this set up on my old BX1860 with dual rear factory QC's to operate a Powerhorse 13T splitter.

 

[CHDinCT]

Here's a pic when I was installing it. I ended up plugging the splitter into the two open QC's at the back of the tractor and using a wedge to hold the tractor's auxiliary valve open.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Do the above recomendations or replace the valve with one that has a PB (power beyond) and install a loop with quick connects (like a BH loop). Thats what I did...

I have dual remote, valve 1 = one bucket grapple, valve 2 = hydraulic top link, and PB for splitter

 

[Casco1]

If you havn't bought it yet, I've allways believed that the tractor has a much more important job it could be doing while splitting wood rather than just replaceing a $400 gas motor. (feeding and removing from the splitter)

I surely do agree with you "but" I need another gasoline engine to maintain like I need a hole in my head. In my case it's worse, it means removing the BH.

 

[navynuke]

Those all look like viable options. I have been looking at a power beyond loop or pinning open that valve. My only hard spot with either is the flow rate from the tractor's hydraulic pump. Kubota lists the L3400 as having 7 gpm for the flow, which I wouldn't think to be enough for a 20T logsplitter. I have been entertaining the thought of a PTO hydraulic pump, but that seems pretty cost prohibitive when compared to the cost of a free standing gas unit.....

 

[CHDinCT]

Those all look like viable options. I have been looking at a power beyond loop or pinning open that valve. My only hard spot with either is the flow rate from the tractor's hydraulic pump. Kubota lists the L3400 as having 7 gpm for the flow, which I wouldn't think to be enough for a 20T logsplitter. I have been entertaining the thought of a PTO hydraulic pump, but that seems pretty cost prohibitive when compared to the cost of a free standing gas unit.....

Your GPM only affects cycle times - how fast the ram moves. Your tractor pump PSI will determine force. Consider a dual-directional splitter to help with cycle times if you are worried about the 7 GPM rating of your L3400. No need to retract the cylinder for the next split.

 

[alkabo]

I have an L4400 with a split-fire 3-point splitter. It's not the fastest splitting but with the 2-way splitting it keeps my wife and I as busy as we want to be. I split all my wood in the woods where I cut it and then pick it up with an old spreader so I wouldn't be using the tractor to be moving the wood while splitting. Also with the 3-point splitter it's very nice to be able to adjust the working height to what is comfortable.

 

[Tomtint]

I had a BX22 with a 3 point splitter I ran off the hydro lines from the backhoe. It was ok not super fast, but way better than the ax. I now have a l3700SU and have not yet tried it on that.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Those all look like viable options. I have been looking at a power beyond loop or pinning open that valve. My only hard spot with either is the flow rate from the tractor's hydraulic pump. Kubota lists the L3400 as having 7 gpm for the flow, which I wouldn't think to be enough for a 20T logsplitter. I have been entertaining the thought of a PTO hydraulic pump, but that seems pretty cost prohibitive when compared to the cost of a free standing gas unit.....

It'll handle the 20 T fine, and like other mentioned speed will be affected, so get a dual direction splitter, like the powerhorse

 

[navynuke]

I checked out those dual directional splitters, they look pretty cool. Do you get the same amount of splitting force in both directions, I guess it should be equal. I think that running QC's to the splitter off the pinned open existing valve is a good way to go. Separately, how difficult and/or expensive is it to install a power beyond loop? What other implements would require PB?

 

[KennyG]

I checked out those dual directional splitters, they look pretty cool. Do you get the same amount of splitting force in both directions, I guess it should be equal. I think that running QC's to the splitter off the pinned open existing valve is a good way to go. Separately, how difficult and/or expensive is it to install a power beyond loop? What other implements would require PB?

Splitting power is significantly less in the retract direction. I have the little PowerHorse 13 ton. It's split some pretty ugly stuff in the extend direction, but it has stalled on big logs in the retract direction. The solution is simple, always make the first split in the extend direction.

The difference in force is because the hydraulic force acts on an area reduced by the shaft diameter when retracting.

 

[CHDinCT]

Agree with KennyG; the retract side will be exert less force since the rod reduces the the cylinder area on that side so there's fewer square inches of area to apply the PSI of your pump to. I split either direction with success for 90% of what I split. When I come up against a knotty log or something about 14" or more in diameter, I make sure I split from the extend side first.

 

[955er]

Go with a 16 or 13 ton splitter. It will split just about anything the 20ton will, and the smaller cylinder size will increase your cycle time.

Those split-fires are nice