Log Splitter Project

rswyan · Jul 19, 2004

I'm about to embark on building a log splitter. I plan on it being a 3PT mount for use on my B2910 and was hoping to use the PTO pump from by BL4690B Kubota backhoe to power it. If I get real inspired (or foolish) I might even attempt to outfit it with table grate and a hydraulic log lift ala the Timberwolf splitters:

Timberwolf Product Line

Seems to me that I ought to be able to install some quick-disconnect fittings on the pump itself and the lines from the 'hoe and the splitter and just swap the pump between the units. I've heard that the QD fittings should be one size larger than the hose they are being used on to avoid restricting flow. I think the biggest problem with this idea is finding a quick-disconnect for the 3/4" (I.D.) suction line going back to the tank ... the hose is huge - but I would assume that someone, somewhere might make one.

I'm going to source most of the components (wedge, control valve, hyd. tank, filter) from Northern Tool, except for the steel, and possibly the cylinder which I might get from Prince Direct (if their website ever comes back up)

I've determined that the backhoe pump is an Eaton L2 series, model 25503 LAF with a rated output of 23.6 gpm @3000 psi @ 2750 rpm. The LA designation above indicates that the pressure relief assembly in the pump is set to 2000 psi - and looking in the backhoe manual at the parts diagram for the 'hoe control valves it seems as though the main pressure relief for it is 2300 psi.

Given that, I'm assuming that I should be safe to use a control valve like this one:

Control Valve

I'm planning on going with a cylinder with a 4" - 5" bore with a large piston (2" or better) and a stroke of 26" to 30" (... if I can find one at a decent price.)

And I was going to use this 12 gallon tank as the hydraulic reservoir:

Hydraulic Tank

I figured that a 12 gallon reservoir was an improvement on the 5 or 6 gallon tank that came with the backhoe and that I probably won't ever come close to running the pump at 20 gpm, given that it is pressure limited to 2000 psi and given the fact I likely wouldn't run the B2910 at PTO speed when splitting.

Since I'm no hydraulic guru, I just want to make sure that the hydraulic components, particularly the control valve, are suitable for one another - looks to me that components rated for a working pressure of at least 2500 psi should be fine.

Anyone have any comments ? See any problems with this idea ?

khd · Jul 19, 2004

Randall:

I don't have much experience wuth PTO pumps but as long as it is open center (Pretty sure it is) the valve you chose will do fine. (Does the handle come with or do you have to buy it seperate?) The tank is fine also but there is no reason why you can't go with the 5Gal. Tank size is more a matter of enough volume to keep the fluid cool in this type of application. You will never be fast enough to burn the fluid on splitting to not use the 5 gal. The twelve certainly isn't wrong though.

I've been building a stand alone for awile now...(no time)....and I chose the 5gal for the reasons above plus cost of tanks and the fluid to fill it. For the cylinder; just got last week, I chose the the one out of Northern (4x24 Northern brand) over surplus and prince for pure price. The comparable in surplus was cheaper but Northen had a shipping deal and was able to ship 62 lbs for $13.00. Prince was 50-75% more than the other two before shipping and I didn't figure I needed a "caddilac" cylinder for a splitter.

I guess most of your decissions will be made on your use of the splitter. If your going to use it alot....processing large amounts of wood, springing for a better cylinder, etc. would probably be worth it. Mine will be for moderate use so I chose as I did.

Good luck....it has been a fun project for me.

Kevin

rswyan · Jul 19, 2004

( I don't have much experience wuth PTO pumps but as long as it is open center (Pretty sure it is) the valve you chose will do fine. )

The valve is open center (and the pump appears to be a fixed displacement pump ... so life should be good in that respect I guess)

( (Does the handle come with or do you have to buy it seperate?) )

Comes with it as far as I know - I believe the separate handle they show at the bottom of the page is just a replacement.

( The tank is fine also but there is no reason why you can't go with the 5Gal. Tank size is more a matter of enough volume to keep the fluid cool in this type of application. You will never be fast enough to burn the fluid on splitting to not use the 5 gal. The twelve certainly isn't wrong though. )

Yeah - the 12 gal. was overkill for the amount I'll probably ever use it. Surplus Center's recommendation was for 1 gal. capacity for every gpm the pump put out (20 gal. tank for a 20 gpm pump) .... anyways I ended up downsizing and going with the 10 gal. tank from Surplus Center which was a little over $20 cheaper (and lighter and cheaper to ship.)

( I've been building a stand alone for awile now...(no time)....and I chose the 5gal for the reasons above plus cost of tanks and the fluid to fill it. )

Right - the cost of filling it was one of the reasons I cut it back to 10 ... of course I guess I wouldn't have to fill it completely either /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

( For the cylinder; just got last week, I chose the the one out of Northern (4x24 Northern brand) over surplus and prince for pure price. The comparable in surplus was cheaper but Northen had a shipping deal and was able to ship 62 lbs for $13.00. )

That is a good deal on the shipping. I've been waffling around on what cylinder to go with - I'd like something 4" or a little larger ... but of course they get pricey in hurry once you go over a 4" bore (and longer than a 24" stroke - ideally I'd like 28" or 30")

( Prince was 50-75% more than the other two before shipping and I didn't figure I needed a "caddilac" cylinder for a splitter.
)

Yup - that's a pretty significant difference. I just wish Northern offered one of their own brand in a little larger unit. I figure with the PTO pump I should have the capacity, so why not go a little larger ..... I dunno .... maybe it's overkill .... ? Of course with a smaller cylinder the cycle times will be faster ....

( I guess most of your decissions will be made on your use of the splitter. If your going to use it alot....processing large amounts of wood, springing for a better cylinder, etc. would probably be worth it. Mine will be for moderate use so I chose as I did. )

My usage will likely be the same.

( Good luck....it has been a fun project for me. )

Thanks - and same to ya !

MadReferee · Jul 19, 2004

You can get the QD's and any other fittings and hoses cheapest at HydraulicHoseFittings.com and they are a TBN advertiser. Most of the 4000 series ag couplers they sell are Pioneer brand.

rswyan · Jul 19, 2004

Thanks Mad - was hoping you would chime in on this thread /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

MadReferee · Jul 19, 2004

One more thing. Source your components from Surplus Center when possible. BaileyNet and Prince Direct are also good choices. The selection is better and you will find them cheaper and their customer service will be better since they speak hydraulics. I doubt if anyone at Northern Tool knows what hydraulics is.

rswyan · Jul 19, 2004

Mad,

Good info, thanks. In the future I will try and follow that advice - I did end up ordering the tank from Surplus Center. I had already ordered the following components from Northern:

A pair of 12" splitting wedges ($26.99 each) - one for the splitter rail and the other to build a 4-way wedge to go over the wedge on the splitter rail.

A 10 micron hydraulic filter with element ($12.99) and a spare element ($5.59)

The suction strainer ($15.99)

A few miscellaneous fittings ($20)

The control valve ($89.99), which has pressure-released detents in both directions:

My idea on using this type of valve was that I could start the split and put the valve into detent to complete the split. Or just manually run the valve until the split completes and then put the cylinder into detent for the cylinder return.

There was a warning that it was dangerous on the NT page about using this type of valve for log splitters .... which I found a little interesting (given that there was no futher elaboration on WHY it was dangerous - and the fact that they offer it for sale anyways) I'm sure I have seen (and used) this type of valve used on splitters ... but it may have been many years ago. I'm curious if anyone sees what the potential issues might be ?

Timberwolf offers a similar type of valve set on thier splitters up which they call AutoCycle - but in looking over the manual for one of their splitters, I see they use two separate valves to to do it - one apparently for the split, and another for the return stoke. To use AutoCycle both valve handles have to be set into detent at the start of the split.

Thoughts ?

SPIKER · Jul 19, 2004

Hi all:

Figured I'd chime in too.

every thing seems fine so far, I thought I'd say check out "FARM PRO" they now carry hyd cylin8ders in the 4x24 with 1.75" or 2" shaft (forget now) for 79 bucks or so. got mine at one of theirs shows so no shipping as I was stopping by there to get some wheel parts for my mower... the cyl has 3/4NPT ports on it.

as for dentents I think they need to automatically snap back to center once they reach a certain pressure? so they don't damage something. not sure if they make them that will SPLIT in the dentent ostion or not.???

I did not check FARMPRO's web site for any valves, but they MAY be startting to carry them too>?

Mark M

rswyan · Jul 19, 2004

Excellent - a fellow Buckeye (Ohioan)

By all means, chime away - the more the merrier.

Do you have a link/url for Farm Pro (or FarmPro ?) The cylinder price seems very good.

Correct on the pressure release on the detents - the detent release pressure is apparently adjustable on the valve.

Hmmm - good point on whether the forward detent will split or not - set the detent release pressure too low and you may never generate enough pressure to split tougher logs. Set it too high and the pump might not ever generate enough pressure to release the detent ....... this could require a little rethinking .......

khd · Jul 19, 2004

Here's a question on the PTO pump. A normal splitter pump is two stage. What happens when you hit a snarl with a PTO pump? In the 2 stage the second stage kicks in and slows things down but increases the pressure.

I guess the first question is what is the output of your pump...(If you said earlier I couldn't find it). Trying to imagine that if it is a large pump moving the cylinder fast through a snarl what would happen.

Just trying to visualize as most threads on 3pt splitters off the tractor's hyd. talk about the slow cycle time thus theorizing a slow pass through a snarl sorta like a second stage without the added pressure.

(Just in case.....Snarl = twisted log like a crotch or knee)

Kevin