Log Splitter Question...

[WranglerX]

Sound like a plan... Sounds like splitter would be "sort of stationary" because if having to move two units.... Some pictures of finished unit would be good...

 

[triptester]

This would be the minimum return filter you would want.

3/4" NPT 25 GPM Zinga Return Line Filter 25 PSI Bypass Zinga ZAF-07-25-0-10​

 

[aircommuter]

The only reason for a strainer on the inlet is to protect the manufacturer from debris left in the system. Once the oil passes through the return filter nothing should be in the tank.

 

[/pine]

Sound like a plan... Sounds like splitter would be "sort of stationary" because if having to move two units.... Some pictures of finished unit would be good...

Sound like a plan... Sounds like splitter would be "sort of stationary" because if having to move two units.... Some pictures of finished unit would be good...

Here is a couple of old pics...before and after I added the lift...I park the tractor about 20' to the right in the pics...you can see the hoses...

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[ovrszd]

Why not put the filter on the output port of the tank? That way you're sure the oil reaching the pump is clean. That's where the filter is on my 20T wood splitter.

My theory. The filter should be on the return side so it catches all contaminants before they enter the tank. Then you know your pump is always drinking clean oil.

 

[ovrszd]

My splitter uses 1 1/4" hose from valve assembly to filter head. Tank has a male 1"

threaded nipple welded to the top of the tank.

 

[3Ts]

I was under the impression that the return inlet to the tank needed to be below the oil level to keep the oil from foaming. With it coming in at the top of the tank it will free fall thru the air before hitting the oil in the tank.

 

[ovrszd]

I was under the impression that the return inlet to the tank needed to be below the oil level to keep the oil from foaming. With it coming in at the top of the tank it will free fall thru the air before hitting the oil in the tank.

Have never had a problem. Might be contingent on the type of oil used?

 

[PILOON]

I understand but the output port of the tank (ie, before entering the pump) is low pressure, no? It's only once it leaves the pump that it becomes pressurized. At least, that's how I understand it.

Correct, it would be low pressure (actually suction or gravity fed) but if clogged it would create a vacuum and collapse the intake hose which generally is very low pressure material not unlike garden hose.
As a result your pump could run dry.
I think the proper solution is for the tank outlet to be higher up the reservoir so as to have a sump to collect any debris .
I gather that most filters are between the return line and tank thus catch most debris B4 damage can be caused. Not 100% but darn close.
Naturally in the perfect world all hoses were flushed B4 installation and all oil was filtered carefully.

In aviation, specs for hoses call for calibrated balls to be run thru each hose as well as pressure tests.

 

[WranglerX]

I was under the impression that the return inlet to the tank needed to be below the oil level to keep the oil from foaming. With it coming in at the top of the tank it will free fall thru the air before hitting the oil in the tank.

Mine, like thousands of others enters from top of tank....

Dale

 

[triptester]

Generally the return pipe enters the top of the tank then extends to near the tank bottom where the fluid is discharged.

 

[/pine]

What are the most common or likely sources of contaminates ? other than worn parts...?...seems to be the most vulnerable place is the filler cap...(all kinds of scenarios there)...and that would leave only a suction strainer to protect the pump...

 

[ovrszd]

Generally the return pipe enters the top of the tank then extends to near the tank bottom where the fluid is discharged.

And mine may, I didn't build the tank so don't know for sure.

 

[ovrszd]

What are the most common or likely sources of contaminates ? other than worn parts...?...seems to be the most vulnerable place is the filler cap...(all kinds of scenarios there)...and that would leave only a suction strainer to protect the pump...

Yep, filler cap would be the only source other than parts failure. I've had my splitter 11 years and have never removed the tank cap.

 

[Rich B1]

A suction strainer stops chunks. Chunks destroy pumps abruptly.

Suction strainers do nothing for the fines that slowly destroy your pump, cylinders, motors, etc. A pressure line filter is nice if the pump dies, but are expensive and bulky. They do nothing for any contamination coming from system components,

Only a good return line filter prevents fines and chunks from the system from getting into your tank. Clean oil from the tank into the pump gives you a clean system.

There is always a risk you introduce contamination when filling. A filler with a screen keeps the chunks out. A breather keeps airborne fines out. Clean oil out of a sealed container is actually not that clean. But, a simple gear pump system with a return liner filter, run under no load, will clean itself up rapidly.

On a simple system, there are diffusers you can add to your return line. They do help reduce foaming of the oil.

 

[SylvainG]

Yep, filler cap would be the only source other than parts failure. I've had my splitter 11 years and have never removed the tank cap.

What? do you mean that in 11 years, you never changed your hydraulic oil in your splitter? Mine ask to change the hydraulic oil every 100 hours or yearly

Every 100 hours or per 1 year

Clean spark arrester (optional)

Check/adjust maximum load speed*

Check/adjust valve clearance*

Clean fuel tank and filter*

Change hydraulic oil

Change hydraulic oil filter

A suction strainer stops chunks. Chunks destroy pumps abruptly.

Suction strainers do nothing for the fines that slowly destroy your pump, cylinders, motors, etc. A pressure line filter is nice if the pump dies, but are expensive and bulky. They do nothing for any contamination coming from system components,

Only a good return line filter prevents fines and chunks from the system from getting into your tank. Clean oil from the tank into the pump gives you a clean system.

There is always a risk you introduce contamination when filling. A filler with a screen keeps the chunks out. A breather keeps airborne fines out. Clean oil out of a sealed container is actually not that clean. But, a simple gear pump system with a return liner filter, run under no load, will clean itself up rapidly.

On a simple system, there are diffusers you can add to your return line. They do help reduce foaming of the oil.

Mine has no filter, just strainer. Might be why they ask that the oil be changed every year or 100 hours. I'll be adding return line filter to it. My splitter flow is 8 gpm so I guess this 15 gpm filter will do the trick. I'm in Canada so my choice of suppliers is limited

One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.

 

[WranglerX]

One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.

A filter is a filter its physical orientation probably has no effect on how it operates other than it needs to be between control valve and tank... Use what ever plumbing that is appropriate to locate it in safe area (above top of tank level) ... I would bet a couple of nipples and a 90° elbow would do...

As for changing hydraulic fluid, my splitter is over 30 years old, don't know if previous owners ever change fluids so I have no idea of how many hours on it.... But it uses Dexron II (ATF) and if a car can go 100,000 miles without auto trans fluid change, I seriously doubt the need to change fluid every 100 hours...

Dale

 

[3Ts]

On one of my tractors, the hydraulic filter is vertical, the other (bigger tractor FWIW) is horizontal. I don't think it makes a difference except for how easy (or not) it is to change them.

 

[ericm979]

If the return line filter is below the level in the tank, you can't change the filter without also draining the tank.

 

[ovrszd]

What? do you mean that in 11 years, you never changed your hydraulic oil in your splitter? Mine ask to change the hydraulic oil every 100 hours or yearly

Every 100 hours or per 1 year

Clean spark arrester (optional)

Check/adjust maximum load speed*

Check/adjust valve clearance*

Clean fuel tank and filter*

Change hydraulic oil

Change hydraulic oil filter

Mine has no filter, just strainer. Might be why they ask that the oil be changed every year or 100 hours. I'll be adding return line filter to it. My splitter flow is 8 gpm so I guess this 15 gpm filter will do the trick. I'm in Canada so my choice of suppliers is limited

One question though, must the filter be vertical? Can it be horizontal? My return line is at the bottom of the tank and the filter would hang low where it my be ripped off if I hit something while moving the splitter.

You answered your own question in regards to changing oil.

See my pics in regards to filter positioning.