Log Splitters

[murphy1244]

If I bought another splitter I would have a log lift, the table would be waist high and be on both sides. I now have a TSC 35ton.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Do you have a helper feed wood to the splitter? If not, how do you keep up with loading the splitter and stacking the splits plus running the splitter?

I usually hire one of the teens from church to be my helper. Saves my back and earns him $12 an hour. Win win for both of us. But even without the helper, having no retract stroke allows you to grab the split wood off the side trays and keep splitting. I load my split wood into IBC cages and then use the tractor to move the cages to a sunny spot on the south side of my barn for seasoning. At the end of the fall I move them again into the barn.

I also bought a 4 way head (also bi-directional) to make it more efficient. Bought it from this guy who lives near me.

Powerhorse log splitter with custom made dual 4-way wedge - YouTube

This was the first job it tackled. I used wood racks that first year, and switched to metal IBC cages the next year.

 

[turnkey4099]

Because of the points you made, I pay little attention to statements about how "my splitter will split anything thrown at it". Come to my block pile and we'll see.

For me, the goal of a splitter is to not waste any wood. If I can get it onto the table I expect it to be split. Buy large.

I don't like the wedge on the cylinder but that's hard to avoid in the smaller splitters. It must be cheaper to build them that way.

I also highly value a catch table. Saves a LOT of back work.

All of these things appear trivial when you are standing in the store looking at your potential new splitter. Halfway thru the first load they become very significant. As someone mentioned above, it matters!!!

I also abhor the 'wedge on cylinder'. The only reaswon for it is to allow the verticle or horizontal splitting setup. I don't do verticle, I get enough backache stooping and bending feeding the splitter without crawling around on the ground. I bought the Troybilt 27ton at Lowes only because it was the cheapest I found at the time and a 'wedge on beam' (which I had on my worn out homebuilt) would have cost $1,000 more.

 

[TomSeller]

Speedo and Oregon are both Blount brands. I know Blount was sold recently but does anyone know which of the two brands had the better splitters? I see the GX Honda engines on the Oregon. Is it better?

 

[ksks]

After my research, I ended up with a 35T Dirty Hands. I would have gotten the 27, but the 35 was on sale for the same price.
I put about 3 cords thru it so far. I have not had issues, except the log catcher bent so the splits roll off. I could bend it back up. I haven't had a chance to really address this yet. Seems others may have had the problem. I emailed dht and they seem surprised, but did offer 10% off on the table, which I was looking at anyway. (They thought maybe the bolts were loose.) It covers the motor. I would recommend that.

This is my first splitter, and not much of a trial yet, but I was very happy with it. Everything I split was newly cut oak.

Many opinions on horizontal vs vertical. At least half of what I split was way too big to lift so we used the vertical mode. With the kind of trees I have, I have to use the vertical.

If you get it from Lowes, it will be assembled. Other places will ship in a crate, for the same price.

I can't comment on Champion.

Good luck.

 

[ovrszd]

If I bought another splitter I would have a log lift, the table would be waist high and be on both sides. I now have a TSC 35ton.

Yep. Use the log lift to get the large ones on the splitter beam. Also use it to rack smaller logs ahead of splitting.

 

[Pilot]

I bought an Ariens from Home Depot a couple years ago, going for the ability to operate from either side and good reviews here. Got my 10% veteran's discount. Turned out it was too wimpy, so took it back & swapped it for a larger one, 27 ton. No problems from HD with the transaction. Splits anything I have, 24" Douglas-fir with 2 1/2 inch knots. Only complaint I have is that the gas tank has a filler screen that can't be removed so you can't tell how full it is when refueling. I end up running it dry then filling it with the 3.4 quarts capacity it takes--measure into a quart jug, then pour. I'd rather be able to fill from a regular jug where I could see how full it's getting. If I were the designer I'd design with clear tanks so the user could easily check fuel level. Otherwise it's a great splitter. TSC isn't everywhere, but HD is.

 

[Budweiser John]

Best bang for the buck is the Harbor Freight 20 ton dual splitter. I've split 15 cords with it so far, and I've been extremely pleased with it. It is faster than a normal splitter because it splits both ways, forward and reverse. So there is no time wasted to retract the cylinder. Splits oak, maple, cherry, ash without issue. I would recommend this splitter to everyone. You won't find a better deal.

Not familiar with the HF unit but my dual action "Split Fire" will make short work of a pile of logs. When I purchased the splitter I burned a bigger hole in the credit card and purchased the optional hydraulic log lifter. Made the right decision. Might add the Honda engine has been a dream too.

B. John

 

[jack707]

I have a arieans. Log splitter 22 ton I wish I bought a different one!!!. I have a problem with it after I get it to run for awhile it dies.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I also abhor the 'wedge on cylinder'. The only reaswon for it is to allow the verticle or horizontal splitting setup. I don't do verticle, I get enough backache stooping and bending feeding the splitter without crawling around on the ground.

There's no question the wedge on the beam is better, and even better is a hydraulically adjustable wedge on beam with side wings for a 4 way split.

But unless you have a log lift, you aren't going to split big stuff that way, and a lot of what I get is 30-40" oak. That's not getting lifted onto the splitter! I can wrestle that onto the splitting foot and get it done. Otherwise, I'd have to forego a lot of free wood. It's all about what your needs are, which includes what you are going to be splitting.

On that note, this cracks me up:

Splits anything I have, 24" Douglas-fir with 2 1/2 inch knots.

Compare that to a 40" oak crotch!

But on a serious note, again, it's all about what you are going to be splitting. If 24" fir is big to you, then a 22 is probably good and a 27 will do just fine. I'd be crying with one of those smaller ones.

Know your wood and buy accordingly.