Look what I found in the woods!

[EddieWalker]

Not sure of hydraulics but owner claims they work great

It has hydraulics?

Eddie

 

[Army grunt]

Show him 5 one hundred dollar bills. Thats what I would give for it.then be ready to put another 15 to 2,000 into it. that's what they bring running in ok condition,,2,000 to 2500 around here in Ga.
Army Grunt

 

[Mal AC]

I wish i could find something like that in my woods.

 

[Soundguy]

i can't see the rims good enough to see if they are solid. might be rust ont he bottom.

steering box COULD be shelled out. head might be cracked... hyds may be bad,

if it don't run and work.. it's too much a gamble, without beingthere to check it out. I recently got a 63 2000.. looked great.. steering box had a wormshaft and ballnut that was soo loose it cocked down and locked. the sector gear teeth profile were worn into a point, and box had no lube.

I'll sell you that one for 250$

head on a tractor lost in the woods? did someone go out there and put coolant in it before abandoning it? or did it freeze?

water get in it and rust all the cyls and valves? ruin the crank?

like I said. 50-150$

soundguy

i wish i was in florida i would like to have some of them tractors for around 100 bucks because i see 650 dollars worth of rims and tires 150 dollars worth of lift arms a 400 dollar head and a 250 dollar steering box not to metion all the other little parts on that tractor one like that around me u can sell to get for 400 but no likely everytime i get one of them in my shop to salvage i have the head back tires and steering box sold before i can get them took off

 

[Soundguy]

Show him 5 one hundred dollar bills. Thats what I would give for it.then be ready to put another 15 to 2,000 into it. that's what they bring running in ok condition,,2,000 to 2500 around here in Ga.
Army Grunt

sure.. you can go buy a decent runner for 2000$.. or buy a woods find for 500$ and then put 2000$ into it to make it a runner

sometimes it apys to start with a better machine as a starting point.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

It has hydraulics?

Eddie

3pt ... and an orphan 3pt at that. the makup under the naa top cover was different from the N up to that point, and different from the 00+ series. thus hyd components for the naa were limited to 2ys. not great when searching for parts. I needed a hyd part for my naa. not wanting to buy an entire top cover to get a piece the size of a deck of cards, I had to search for 6m to get one... then trade a good amount of sherman gears and a shaft for it.

naa has very few provisions for adding external hyds.

the blank plate that you can mount a hyd valve under was a design ford used for 2ys only.. hyd valves for it are exceedingly rare and when you find them, expensive.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

ps.. I notice it's missing a carb.. that's a bit of a spendy piece.

also menas the mainifold has been open.. engine might be full of acorns and mouse nests and dirt daubbers.

soundguy

 

[rankrank1]

i can't see the rims good enough to see if they are solid. might be rust ont he bottom.

steering box COULD be shelled out. head might be cracked... hyds may be bad,

if it don't run and work.. it's too much a gamble, without beingthere to check it out. I recently got a 63 2000.. looked great.. steering box had a wormshaft and ballnut that was soo loose it cocked down and locked. the sector gear teeth profile were worn into a point, and box had no lube.

I'll sell you that one for 250$

head on a tractor lost in the woods? did someone go out there and put coolant in it before abandoning it? or did it freeze?

water get in it and rust all the cyls and valves? ruin the crank?

like I said. 50-150$

soundguy

Geesh What does that tractor weigh? (Off the top of my head it is around 3000 lbs -3200 lbs or so). So lets just say 3000lbs to make my math easy. Non-sheet iron scrap was bringing $240 - $260 a ton so it has a scrap iron value of roughly $250 x 1.5 ton = $375.

So it has a scrap value of $375 minimum and you expect to buy it for $50-$150????? Cracks me up cheapskates (not necessarily you Soundguy) get mad at people scrapping our antique tractor history on the forums all the time, but it is ridiculously low offers of like $50 to $150 that makes the choice easy for people to simply scrap them instead of having to deal with cheapskate public - so there goes more of our history sent to china and recycled into cheap toasters and other junk.

Soundguy is correct that the tractor could well end up being a money pit to fix properly, but that is a chance you sometimes have to take. My take even an offer of $550 to $650 is a pretty safe bet. Even if everything is ruined there is still at least $200 worth of parts to sell in a part out and $400 in remaining scrap. You really can not lose anything at $600 as you do have a fallback plan to get your money back. Sellers asking price of $800 is too much in my opinion from what I can see but really not too far off.

FWIW: I bought a non-running Jubilee last year for $600 in similar condition as at $600 I knew I was reasonably safe. One rear rim was totally shot, but all 4 tires were good although one rear does a have hillbilly plug in it, but it will not hurt a thing. Had it running in a couple hours. Think I am going to luck out - although it still needs some parts. Probably will end up with some money in it but that is okay as I will know what I have when done and I enjoy tinkering on them.

 

[Soundguy]

cheap? cheapskate?

.. tractor weighs less than 3000#.. few hundred less anyway. and tires don't count as iron weight.. neither does oil and water.

Ok.. I have to get my truck and trailer and drive over there. ( diesel ain't free.. near 4$ a gallon... my 450 with trailer uses a few gallons to go some place ).. ok.. tractor is not running. meaning I have to spend HOURS to winch it up on my trailer, assuming it rolls good.. it's in the woods? bet my gooseneck and dually won't be able to get all the way back there.. meaning it has to be towed first a lil bit....then I got to take it and get it ready to scrap out.

by the time I pay my diesel bill,, and accounting for my time... the 350$ scrap value ain't worth it..

for the average person not wanting to go to the trouble to take a year to part a tractor out piece at a time.. then that leaves restoing it or selling it. a lost cause like that may be too spendy to restore.

selling it. not much of a deal to sell it for 350 to the guy that's only gonna get 350 out of it, plus has to do all the work to get that 350, like the diesel I mentioned.. and work.. etc.

soundguy

Geesh What does that tractor weigh? (Off the top of my head it is around 3000 lbs -3200 lbs or so). So lets just say 3000lbs to make my math easy. Non-sheet iron scrap was bringing $240 - $260 a ton so it has a scrap iron value of roughly $250 x 1.5 ton = $375.

So it has a scrap value of $375 minimum and you expect to buy it for $50-$150????? Cracks me up cheapskates (not necessarily you Soundguy) get mad at people scrapping our antique tractor history on the forums all the time, but it is ridiculously low offers of like $50 to $150 that makes the choice easy for people to simply scrap them instead of having to deal with cheapskate public - so there goes more of our history sent to china and recycled into cheap toasters and other junk.

Soundguy is correct that the tractor could well end up being a money pit to fix properly, but that is a chance you sometimes have to take. My take even an offer of $550 to $650 is a pretty safe bet. Even if everything is ruined there is still at least $200 worth of parts to sell in a part out and $400 in remaining scrap. You really can not lose anything at $600 as you do have a fallback plan to get your money back. Sellers asking price of $800 is too much in my opinion from what I can see but really not too far off.

FWIW: I bought a non-running Jubilee last year for $600 in similar condition as at $600 I knew I was reasonably safe. One rear rim was totally shot, but all 4 tires were good although one rear does a have hillbilly plug in it, but it will not hurt a thing. Had it running in a couple hours. Think I am going to luck out - although it still needs some parts. Probably will end up with some money in it but that is okay as I will know what I have when done and I enjoy tinkering on them.

 

[rankrank1]

cheap? cheapskate?

.. tractor weighs less than 3000#.. few hundred less anyway. and tires don't count as iron weight.. neither does oil and water.

Ok.. I have to get my truck and trailer and drive over there. ( diesel ain't free.. near 4$ a gallon... my 450 with trailer uses a few gallons to go some

soundguy

Guess, I am lucky with the scrap dealers in my area. I have two that I primarily use. Either scrap dealer, tires are fine and do count as weight although they do dock you a small fee of $2 per tire at the one place at the other they pay you a slightly less per wieght. (I would be selling the front tires on this one anyway if it turns out bad). Other scrap dealer I would have to remove the gas tank only and punch holes in it. Otherwise, all engine oil, transmission oil, coolant, is fine to be left in there so do count as weight. I almost bought a Massey Harris 44 from one of the places several years back - it was literally complete tires and all. Scrap was down in price then and I could have got it very reasonable. Probably should have bought it, but I did not have any acreage then so passsed.

Granted travel time has to be factored if traveling long distances as well as time winching up onto a trailer and attaching binders (I use a painstaking slow hand powered come-along you wanna talk about a gluttin for punishment). That said if you read the OP original post it clearly said neighbor so travel time would be mute point in this case as well as the need for a trailer if tractor tires hold air. OP also said it was sitting on edge of dirt road within a woods - hook a chain to it and pull it home should be pretty easy in this particualr case. (tip for OP: If the brakes on the tractor do not work then run your chain through a 8' or 10' length of scrap pipe in order to create a poor man's tow bar. Alternatively, a tongue from a wagon can be used too. Either solution allows the brakes from the tow vehicle to also stop the the vehicle in tow, but you will still need an assitant to steer. Pulled a DC Case home this way 6 miles at 10 mph - wife drove pick-up and I rode the DC).