Looked at a L5240 yesterday
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crazyal
Super Member
You may want to check with the dealers but I think when a price increase happens it's on new tractors going to the dealers. The ones they already have on the lot can still be sold at the lower price.
crazyangel
Gold Member
WOW! That's $10k lower than anything I have even come close to getting a quote for. Was is a demo or did you trade something?
OP
wmonroe
Elite Member
How did you get that price, it's also about 8-10k lower than i've been quoted from anywhere on a 5240.
my L5740 is brand new had .9 hrs and got 0% for 60months and had been on the lot for awhile its a -1 version still cant find difference other than the pto lever vs knob to a -3 No loader.
It was delivered to the dealer Dec2008 and they sent it to some shows. I was told it was 25k I came back with 20k they somehow got assistance from kubota and accepted my offer. i negioated a cash price for the loader of $4650 with me installing it. I was shocked....total was $24650.00 plus $12.00 doc fee
i did call Brady Barlow and found there are some "older new Stock" that can be found at various dealers. So call brady or local dealer and see if they can find any 52 or 57 40's that they are willing to deal on and make your own offer!!!
It was delivered to the dealer Dec2008 and they sent it to some shows. I was told it was 25k I came back with 20k they somehow got assistance from kubota and accepted my offer. i negioated a cash price for the loader of $4650 with me installing it. I was shocked....total was $24650.00 plus $12.00 doc fee
i did call Brady Barlow and found there are some "older new Stock" that can be found at various dealers. So call brady or local dealer and see if they can find any 52 or 57 40's that they are willing to deal on and make your own offer!!!
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crazyangel
Gold Member
What an incredible deal! Good for you! Wish I could find that ....
OP
wmonroe
Elite Member
Thats a great deal!
OP
wmonroe
Elite Member
TripleR said:
If you drive your 5030 across your yard does it leave imprints with the R4 tires? Are your rears loaded? I really want to get R1's but don't want to tear my yard up, especially since for the time being it will be pulling a finish mower.
Thanks
TripleR
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No, but we have a really high clay content and even our M8540 with Ags doesn't do any damage if the ground is dry. I have actually mowed my yard with our old Case CX80 with RFM. Our 5030 and M8540 have fluid in the rears and our BX2660 has rear wheel weights.
I have had to drive on it when fairly wet though and imprints don't stay long.
OP
wmonroe
Elite Member
That's what I was hoping to hear. I can drive my old Ford 961 across the yard with the 6' brush hog hanging off the back with little to no marking but I just wanted to check with someone else.
When my neighbor that farms part of my property drove his IH 1486 across the yard with the baler and wagon that did leave tire marks (really not bad though) but that's a whole different animal. Lol.
When my neighbor that farms part of my property drove his IH 1486 across the yard with the baler and wagon that did leave tire marks (really not bad though) but that's a whole different animal. Lol.
cougar21300
Member
I have the R4 industrials on both of my tractors, mainly because they are much less prone to puncture in the woods and rocks. Both tractors have scars on the tires to attest to this. Please note that the R1s for the larger Grand L tractors are 6 ply tires, so puncture is a lesser concern. I mowed a large lush lawn with a LR1572 rear discharge mounted to my B7800 and it did mow nicely. However even being shod with the R4s and with the loader off the tractor could tear up some turf when cornering. Plus R4s are terrible in snow, even turfs are better (more edges & sipes) I have duo bearpaw pattern chains for the rears on my 5240 and they do work extremely well, but they are a royal pain to mount without help on R4s. The chains are very heavy and want to snag in between the cleats as you try to drag them over center. In hindsite I wish I had shod my B7800 with turfs and chains (it has a snowblower) and my 5240 with the 6 ply turfs for it would best suit my present needs. Still, as an all around compromise the R4s are probably the best choice.
TripleR
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Your situation sounds similar to ours. The family that farms our land uses part of our barn for storage and stage equipment down there all the time 7000 and 8000 Series John Deeres, combines etc. and we keep it mowed as any damage done just seems to go away over time. Now I wouldn't want it right in front of the house, but the ground is pretty resilient. I use to mow our front yard with a Ford 600 and 7' RFM.
OP
wmonroe
Elite Member
Our yard isn't a manicured lawn by any means, it was a hay field that over about a year we have kept mowed to where it is now a decent yard. I know that if I turn tight with R1's that they will tear up the grass (grew up mowing with a B8200 with R1's), I just wanted to make sure the heavier tractor wasn't going to destroy the yard driving across/back and forth.
TripleR
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Same here, I had a "lawn" in town, but a "yard" when we moved to the country. We did work it up when we built the house as we had to cut down thirty feet in some places and spread the dirt around from the basement and knocking the hills down. It was a bean field when we bought the farm.
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wmonroe
Elite Member
What other must have options should I be adding? I plan to get 2 rear remotes and a block heater. The website shows draft control as an option, is it not standard on the grand L? What else needs to be added when buying new?
I'd get 3 or 4 (whatever Kubota offers) remotes and a top n tilt...
TripleR
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Here is a thread on Draft Control for your consideration:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/222934-anyone-use-3pt-draft-control.html
I would consider getting three remotes and TnT, depending on your usage, it is either "nice to have" or "must have". I have used them and am in the "nice to have" camp, but will get it on my next CUT if I ever buy another; not worth the cost to put one on now.
As in many things $$$$$$$$$$ often divides "must" and "nice".
I would consider getting three remotes and TnT, depending on your usage, it is either "nice to have" or "must have". I have used them and am in the "nice to have" camp, but will get it on my next CUT if I ever buy another; not worth the cost to put one on now.
As in many things $$$$$$$$$$ often divides "must" and "nice".
crazyal
Super Member
Do you mind doing some work yourself or would you just rather not deal with it and have it done by the dealer. TnT is something I would do myself. If you already have the remotes then it's not to hard to do. If you think you'll want a grapple then a 3rd function valve would be nice. The other option would be to use one of your rear remotes to operate it but that means using longer hoses to reach the quick disconnects.
The center pto is something else you may want to think about. If you ever want to add a front mount snow blower or broom then you'll want it. I'm not sure if you said if you were looking at a cab or not but the larger open station GL are not easy to add the mid PTO so you'll wan to get it now.
Here are some similar links:
