M59 Discussion Thread
- Thread starter Charlesaf3
- Start date
- Views: 174916
Chuck K.
Gold Member
The bushings where the bucket curl cylinder connects to the quick attach plate.
Good news its only 16.00 a side so I am replacing both of them.
Click on little picture and arrow points to them.
doelake
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2011
- Messages
- 120
- Tractor
- kubota m59 2010
woohoo! I finally found the M59 thread!!! Now I have to go back and read all the comments to see if answers were given to some of my questions in the past
One complaint I have is that when working in low light conditions, having all my work lights on puts a real strain on the battery, I try to keep the PTO throttle at 2500+ RPM, but I feel the 45 amp alternator to be too light duty for night time work.
One complaint I have is that when working in low light conditions, having all my work lights on puts a real strain on the battery, I try to keep the PTO throttle at 2500+ RPM, but I feel the 45 amp alternator to be too light duty for night time work.
doelake
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2011
- Messages
- 120
- Tractor
- kubota m59 2010
Ok so I have finally finished reading the entire thread...Great advice on reversing the hydraulics to the thumb pedal... I hated how it felt backwards to me...that'll be a spring time change when the weather warms up and the backhoe is back on the tractor
I should mention that when I first purchased the tractor, I noticed the auto throttle kicking out on me causing me to lose rpm's. Checking the undercarriage revealed the cable probably was pulled out of the harness and caught by the rear driver's side tire causing the cable to wear and kink. it was replaced by dealer under warranty, but now I routinely check the cables for placement in the frame and wear. Just a word to the wise.
Anthony
I should mention that when I first purchased the tractor, I noticed the auto throttle kicking out on me causing me to lose rpm's. Checking the undercarriage revealed the cable probably was pulled out of the harness and caught by the rear driver's side tire causing the cable to wear and kink. it was replaced by dealer under warranty, but now I routinely check the cables for placement in the frame and wear. Just a word to the wise.
Anthony
Chuck K.
Gold Member
Thanks for the info. on that I will look at mine while I finish doing the 200hr service and replacing the bushings..
The question I have to yall is it possible to replace the Trans. or Hyd. filters with out loosing a lot of fluid and making a complete mess?
The question I have to yall is it possible to replace the Trans. or Hyd. filters with out loosing a lot of fluid and making a complete mess?
doelake
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2011
- Messages
- 120
- Tractor
- kubota m59 2010
DID YOU KNOWWhen refueling your tractor, if the engine is shut down but the ignition is left on, there is an audible sensor that tells you when your tank is full of diesel fuel!!!
doelake
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2011
- Messages
- 120
- Tractor
- kubota m59 2010
Hi Chuck K. I had all my service work done by Kubota when they did the warranty work....the tech told me not to stress about service until reaching 300 hours unless the equipment has been worked extremely hard...BTW I like the rearview mirror on your tractor
BandDcabinet
Silver Member
Bill in VA
Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2010
- Messages
- 43
Chuck K.
Your question about the changing the filters is one that I have as well. In my manual, under the change transmission filter part, it first tells you to drain the oil. Yet, the dealer specifically told me all I had to do is change the filter (at 50 hours) and the maintenance schedule indicates that as well. I was planning on just trying to change the filters this weekend and wondering if it would make that mess you were asking about. i don't know if the manual is miss-titled in that area or if I'm just worrying too much since it is the first time I have done it.
B and D.
Just curious where you got the cab? I've been debating about trying to rig my own but I can imagine what it would look like. The one you have looks good!
Bill
Your question about the changing the filters is one that I have as well. In my manual, under the change transmission filter part, it first tells you to drain the oil. Yet, the dealer specifically told me all I had to do is change the filter (at 50 hours) and the maintenance schedule indicates that as well. I was planning on just trying to change the filters this weekend and wondering if it would make that mess you were asking about. i don't know if the manual is miss-titled in that area or if I'm just worrying too much since it is the first time I have done it.
B and D.
Just curious where you got the cab? I've been debating about trying to rig my own but I can imagine what it would look like. The one you have looks good!
Bill
gwdixon
Elite Member
There has been a lot of debate on this forum and other forums about the wisdom of just changing filters and not the oil.
Without restarting the whole debate, the 50-hour service is the first and most critical. The oil is full of manufacturing and assembly debris. A filter takes out most, but not all, of those metal shards and metal powders that are created as the engine, bearings, and wear surfaces mate.
For the price of the tractor, and the relative inexpensive oil, I drain/change the oil each time it is scheduled to change the filters. Tractor transmissions are subject to tremendous stresses on occassion.
Without restarting the whole debate, the 50-hour service is the first and most critical. The oil is full of manufacturing and assembly debris. A filter takes out most, but not all, of those metal shards and metal powders that are created as the engine, bearings, and wear surfaces mate.
For the price of the tractor, and the relative inexpensive oil, I drain/change the oil each time it is scheduled to change the filters. Tractor transmissions are subject to tremendous stresses on occassion.