M59 Discussion Thread

[RDrancher]

It may sound handy, but I think you're asking for trouble mounting a cutter on the front of a tractor. At the minimum you would need a screen radiator guard and a heavy lexan front guard with wings for the operator. Even then, I wouldn't suggest it. A lot of big shrapnel has bounced off surrounding objects and struck the side screens on my CTL. I wouldn't want to take a hit from one.

 

[Charlesaf3]

It may sound handy, but I think you're asking for trouble mounting a cutter on the front of a tractor. At the minimum you would need a screen radiator guard and a heavy lexan front guard with wings for the operator. Even then, I wouldn't suggest it. A lot of big shrapnel has bounced off surrounding objects and struck the side screens on my CTL. I wouldn't want to take a hit from one.

So

So I use my front remotes, though I've found out that it will kill them eventually - valve isn't mean't for constant flow. I wouldn't want to use it right at capacity, ie if it's rated for 16 go 12 or under.

Cutters for tractors are almost always better/cheaper on the 3 point hitch, but I don't know much about the one you are proposing, I'll have a look

 

[Charlesaf3]

so looked, and I think that's nuts honestly. Skidsteers have to do that, tractors don't. Get a heavy duty bush hog and do it on the back. I don't think the M59 will power that sufficiently either to get 6"

 

[Piston]

I checked the "hydraulic hp" of the front remotes, and it came out to 24.5hp. Compare that to the 45 hp of the PTO and it makes quite a difference. Not to mention that mechanical losses are a lot less than hydraulic when in overloaded conditions.

 

[Fallon]

I checked the "hydraulic hp" of the front remotes, and it came out to 24.5hp. Compare that to the 45 hp of the PTO and it makes quite a difference. Not to mention that mechanical losses are a lot less than hydraulic when in overloaded conditions.

Sounds about right & is the root of the problem. Issue #2 is that the plumbing is probably not optimal. 3rd function plumbing is usually sized for grapples & intermitent duty cylinder. Fine for intermittent operation, but should be a size or 2 larger to minimize friction & minimize heating & parasitic losses for continuous use & optimal power transfer. Likely to loose a GPM or 2 & a few effective HP unless you optimize the plumbing

 

[TBarD]

No great reason to post the following, other than that it is a nice pic of the M59 on the road which I am sure some others will enjoy. Maybe useful as a reference point on hauling the M59. This was taken yesterday near Slumgullion pass, an 11,500' foot pass in SW Colorado, heading up for a summer of work on our ranch property.

Re front remotes, there is plenty of power for a hydraulic auger on the front remotes, and maybe a snow blower although I haven't tried that yet (but I could easily run a line from a rear remote if that worked out better). I wouldn't try to run a mower. I have a 6' PTO mower that I use on the back, with the backhoe removed. That, and the box blade, both benefit greatly from tip and tilt, which would be missing on the front.

 

[ultrarunner]

I love the mountains with a backdrop of snow especially when the roads are clear.

Quite a load you got there... does is pull OK at altitude?

 

[TBarD]

I love the mountains with a backdrop of snow especially when the roads are clear.

Quite a load you got there... does is pull OK at altitude?

Yes - when towing heavy like this, it is more a matter of the grade being climbed than the altitude. The truck's diesel engine has a turbocharger (as does the M59), which helps to mitigate the effect of altitude. When pulling heavy up a grade, one will likely be in a lower gear, and the engine is turning over more which sucks in more air. The limit is more just the EGT i.e. work being done by the engine for the speed one is climbing. To see just the effect of altitude, a better test is when driving on a level road at altitude. Dropping a gear lower than usual is usually desirable when above 7000' or so. The most important truck features for towing in the mountains are a turbo-diesel, instrumentation including an EGT gauge at the minimum, an exhaust brake, and probably a tuning kit. And maybe a lighter trailer than my heavy dump trailer, although the combination of TLB plus dump trailer is very versatile when traveling.

Anyway, as this is an M59 thread, we probably shouldn't hijack it to talk about towing. Back when I got the M59 I was concerned about towing it in the mountains out West and there wasn't much information about other folk's experience doing so, so perhaps this will be a useful reference point for others (and an excuse to post the nice pic!).

 

[rScotty]

The earliest M59s are now close to ten years old, and probably some of them are coming up on time to check the valve lash. Has anyone done this? Anything special the rest of us should be looking for?
My own philosophy is too leave the valve lash alone if it measures within a few thousanths of nominal. But to do that, it has to be measured...which means rotating the engine by hand....and that always makes me a bit nervous.
rScotty.

 

[Adiredneck]

. But to do that, it has to be measured...which means rotating the engine by hand....and that always makes me a bit nervous. rScotty.

Just curious...

Why would this make you nervous?

 

[rScotty]

Just curious...

Why would this make you nervous?

What makes me nervous is that setting the valve lash means that the engine has to be rotated several times by hand in order to put the lifters at the right location to check the valve clearance.

A gasoline engine requires a spark to start, so rotating the engine by hand is safe as long as the ignition is turned off. I've set lots of those without a worry.

But a diesel is a compression ignition engine with a mechanical fuel pump and as far as I know the M59 doesn't have any form of compression release. Those things all combine to add up to a chance (small chance, but real) that it will fire when rotating a piston through the compression stroke. There's just no easy way to make most diesels absolutely safe to rotate through the compression stroke.That's what makes me nervous about setting the valve lash on the M59 without removing either the injectors or the glow plugs....and I hate to remove either unless I just have to.
luck,
rScotty

 

[MutzFarm]

Here is a thread with some pictures of our new M62. I got pictures in post one and I think thirty.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/384629-having-blast-our-new-m62.html

 

[Rorym]

If anyone in the USA can provide me with the Kubota Part Number for this upgraded joystick handle I would be forever grateful...Kubota Australia cant help.
Thanks
R

 

[Rorym]

 

[mike69440]

Contact Kubota Parts | Buy Online & Save

 

[Yamforlife]

Rorym - just installed the kit on my M59 - the stick comes with the Front 3rd valve kit TL2212.

 

[chickenhead]

How hard was the third function valve kit to install? Did you have to remove the rear tire? I am not even sure if the kit comes with instructions.

 

[Yamforlife]

It comes with instructions. It痴 allot easier to install when you take off the rear tire which is easy with the legs on the backhoe. It took me a day to do. Not that hard.