Price Check M8540/M9540 HDC

[rjkobbeman]

rj, thanks for taking the time to explain the 3rd function remote. The only thing I can think I might use this on is a grappler on the FEL, but I doubt I'll purchase that. I might use the money towards another accessory!

I doubt that I do a lot of loading/unloading and will focus mostly on dirt work, fence work and tree clean up with the FEL so the $700 might be a little much for the self leveling feature. You were spot on with the price because that's what the dealer quoted me.

I will definitely upgrade to the 12f/12r and hydraulic shift.

I'm looking at purchasing the tractor in February (really dependent on taxes) The dealer said the 0% financing would be over in December. Surely this will come back soon, I hope. I haven't followed their financing offerings for a while and 0% seems to be the norm on bigger tractors like the M series for 5 years. Anyone think it won't come back soon enough?

As far as the financing goes, nobody knows when it will end. Only you can make the decision to wait or not.

However, a lot of people have said the 0% has been in place for a long time. I started following it a couple of years ago and it has been in place since I started watching. The 0% "programs" are usually around a quarter (3 months) long, however "new" 0% programs seem to be put in place the day after the previous programs ends. The 0% programs are moving tractors in a bad economy. Until things really pickup, I would bet the 0% will be around for a while. The good news is, if you plan to buy in February, you only need "one more" program to be implemented once the current one expires in December. Winter is not a "good" time to move tractors so I would bet 0% will certainly come back for the next quarter.

I have no knowledge to back my guessing though...

 

[TripleR]

Very good information provided as usual.

We had a self leveling FEL on our previous tractor and found it essentially useless for our needs, so we didn't get one on our tractor. It might be handy for some, but was not worth the price for us and haven't missed it.

Definitely get the Hydraulic Shuttle Shift; our last tractor was Synchro Shuttle and the Hydro is the way to go. As to the transmissions, I have no doubt the 9 will work OK, we just like the ability to pick just the right ratios for the operator. I use different ratios than my son for the same job as I like a little slower ground speed in some situations.

On flat land, wheel spacing is no big deal, but we have hills, so we had them extended all the way out.

 

[DJamesLoveless]

Just got a second quote from a dealer in Texas. 39,200 for the tractor and 7,800 for the loader...so right at $47,000 for the M9540 and front loader with 12f/12r..

Has anyone else been looking at this model and been quoted prices? Trying to get a benchmark for what is a decent price.

John Deere has a 101hp that I was quoted 47,000 with bucket and same configuration. Looks like it might come down to dealer once I pull the trigger and purchase the tractor in a few months!

 

[TripleR]

Sounds like a good price to me.

 

[bill in ny]

i would also get the cast wheels on the rear.

 

[DJamesLoveless]

i would also get the cast wheels on the rear.

I have read a lot about the weight of these tractors....does the back end come off the ground when lifting a large round bale without weighted tires and/or cast iron wheels?

 

[rjkobbeman]

I have read a lot about the weight of these tractors....does the back end come off the ground when lifting a large round bale without weighted tires and/or cast iron wheels?

I don't know about a round bale, however I have raise my rear end off of the ground buy taking a BIG scoop of wet dirt. I have also raise my rear end up when I am digging up trees. It is fairly easy to do. That is why I use a ballast box and wheel weights.

I choose to NOT fill my tires.

I WISH I could have gotten the cast iron wheels, but they are not an option for R4s. I went with R4 for several reasons, but the two main reasons were more weight rating on the front tires (probably the back too, but the front was my concern with the amount of FEL work I do) and the resistance to flats via locust thorns.

I would get the cast iron wheels AND use wheel weights... but that is just me. :thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As far as remotes, I have two. One is a self cancelling and the other has a float position. My Bat-wing shredder has the two wings on one remote. I actually prefer it that way, much faster and easier for me.
I also have Top-n-Tilt cylinders. Highly recommend these. Also have not needed more than the two remotes.
quote]

This sounds to me like you could be using 3 remotes. May not need them, but you have to admit that it would be nicer not having to disconnect one of the "TnT" cylinders.

 

[jdjdjd]

As far as remotes, I have two. One is a self cancelling and the other has a float position. My Bat-wing shredder has the two wings on one remote. I actually prefer it that way, much faster and easier for me.
I also have Top-n-Tilt cylinders. Highly recommend these. Also have not needed more than the two remotes.
quote]

This sounds to me like you could be using 3 remotes. May not need them, but you have to admit that it would be nicer not having to disconnect one of the "TnT" cylinders.

Two remotes - only ever needed two. Plugging and unplugging is just part of the job. In one day I may be hooked up to 6 different implements. Third remote would cost me about $850 and might save me a few seconds a day. More of a want-to-have than a need-to-have. If I ever have a single implement that needs three, I can always add a third remote. :thumbsup:

 

[TripleR]

I would definitely get the cast wheels and/or filled tires and you will still benefit from a ballast box or some type of weight on the rear.

My son and I were cleaning out a dry pond we use for erosion control yesterday and he was using the M8540 while I was on the L5030. We haven't had time to fab a weight box and even with the filled tires, he would often lift the back tires digging in the mud. He could carry a full bucket, but filling it would often get the rear tires in the air.

 

[DJamesLoveless]

I would definitely get the cast wheels and/or filled tires and you will still benefit from a ballast box or some type of weight on the rear.

My son and I were cleaning out a dry pond we use for erosion control yesterday and he was using the M8540 while I was on the L5030. We haven't had time to fab a weight box and even with the filled tires, he would often lift the back tires digging in the mud. He could carry a full bucket, but filling it would often get the rear tires in the air.

All very good points and I appreciate the feedback! Ill definitely be digging in soft spots and moving some "MUD" around so ill take all of these into consideration!

 

[TripleR]

Here are some pictures, but none with the tires in the air, I was fighting my own battles keeping above ground. It was dry on top, but once we got down a few inches

 

[DJamesLoveless]

Here are some pictures, but none with the tires in the air, I was fighting my own battles keeping above ground. It was dry on top, but once we got down a few inches

Nice pics of your tractor at work! I too will be cleaning out some old ponds. Once the bucket is down how did the tractor do digging? I know you said your son spun the tires and back wheels lifted off the ground with a full bucket but did you have enough horse power to fill the bucket and do some serious cleaning out?

 

[TripleR]

Nice pics of your tractor at work! I too will be cleaning out some old ponds. Once the bucket is down how did the tractor do digging? I know you said your son spun the tires and back wheels lifted off the ground with a full bucket but did you have enough horse power to fill the bucket and do some serious cleaning out?

It has plenty of power and he was able to get a full bucket, which was really heavy muck. Sometimes he would have to dump it to get out when he bottomed out, but power was never a problem.

The only time the rear wheels came off the ground was when he was backing out on a pretty good incline or when the muck would not release the loader and he would have to break the suction.

He transported the muck up a pretty steep incline and then down a slope to the dump site. He went everywhere I did and then some and I had a box blade on the back.

I honestly would not have tried it, but he is a better driver than I.

 

[piller]

Now we're talking. I recently started reworking a small pond with my open station M8540HD. The tractor and loader performance has been awesome. The pond is an old farm pond that has filled in about 50% over many many years. I keep a boxblade on the 3 point, I've got standard steel wheels, R1's, filled in the back. By the way, I've got the self leveling loader which I really like. The hydraulic shuttle is great for repetitive loader work.

A while back I compared the M9540 with the M96S. If one was really concerned about weight, the price of an M9540 with cast rear wheels and wheel weights and front weights was about the same as the M96S.

 

[BASSIN20]

I just bought a M9540 HDC4WD about 8 months ago now. I looked hard at the M8540 wanting to know outside of the 10 extra hp what the differences were. Basically the PTO Hp was lower of course and it had smaller tires on the back. Everything else on what I was looking at was the same. But what sold me on the 9540 was the extra PTO hp. I had my hay bailed for me on my property, because before I got the 9540 all I had was a 50hp M4800 kubota, it won't run a bailer of descent size. average bailer takes 70 PTO to operate. and cutting the fields when they need it takes quite bit of time to do, I have way more to do than spend hot summer days cutting fields. As my 50 hp is an open deck in which I get to taste all the dust, bugs and anything else that gets kicked up off the ground while traveling. My 9540HDC package has an 8/8 standard trans, three remotes, hydraulic top link, hydraulic side link, FEL, am/fm/cd radio and fluid filled rear tires instead of weights(no problems lifting or pulling anything I hook to. The hydraulic links I use when I am working with my grader box, makes is nice to make adjustments while ditch digging, drainage or road repairs as you can adjust all of that with out getting out of the cab. I paid in mississippi $46,700 for the M9540 as described. I had pretty much made my mind up that I wanted a tractor that I could bail my own hay, basically do my own thing and not rely on others to come do for me at their discression. I also bought a Bushhog 2715 15' batwing, the three remotes operate the batwing. I can tell you my M4800 at 2300 rpms burns right at a gallon an hour fuel, the M9540 burns not quite two gallons an hour but I get twice as much done and don't end the day covered in dust,dirt and have a nose full of pollen/rag weed (swollen sinus). If I had to do it all over again I won't hesitate to buy an M9540. The cab will spoil you, but hey, it's what I get up every day and go to work for!

 

[TripleR]

Now we're talking. I recently started reworking a small pond with my open station M8540HD. The tractor and loader performance has been awesome. The pond is an old farm pond that has filled in about 50% over many many years. I keep a box blade on the 3 point, I've got standard steel wheels, R1's, filled in the back. By the way, I've got the self leveling loader which I really like. The hydraulic shuttle is great for repetitive loader work.

I had a box blade on the back of my L5030, but the R4's didn't allow me to do a lot in the mud, so one on the back of the 8540 sure would have been nice. We could not have made it to this pond with one on the back though. We had to cut three Oaks we planted a few years ago just to be able to get in and still scraped a couple up going in and out. A ballast box would have been ideal. We usually use a 10' wheeled scraper on the 8540. Yes, the hydro shuttle works great for loader work.

I just bought a M9540 HDC4WD about 8 months ago now. I looked hard at the M8540 wanting to know outside of the 10 extra hp what the differences were. Basically the PTO Hp was lower of course and it had smaller tires on the back. Everything else on what I was looking at was the same. But what sold me on the 9540 was the extra PTO hp. I had my hay bailed for me on my property, because before I got the 9540 all I had was a 50hp M4800 kubota, it won't run a bailer of descent size. average bailer takes 70 PTO to operate. and cutting the fields when they need it takes quite bit of time to do, I have way more to do than spend hot summer days cutting fields. As my 50 hp is an open deck in which I get to taste all the dust, bugs and anything else that gets kicked up off the ground while traveling. My 9540HDC package has an 8/8 standard trans, three remotes, hydraulic top link, hydraulic side link, FEL, am/fm/cd radio and fluid filled rear tires instead of weights(no problems lifting or pulling anything I hook to. The hydraulic links I use when I am working with my grader box, makes is nice to make adjustments while ditch digging, drainage or road repairs as you can adjust all of that with out getting out of the cab. I paid in mississippi $46,700 for the M9540 as described. I had pretty much made my mind up that I wanted a tractor that I could bail my own hay, basically do my own thing and not rely on others to come do for me at their discretion. I also bought a Bushhog 2715 15' batwing, the three remotes operate the batwing. I can tell you my M4800 at 2300 rpms burns right at a gallon an hour fuel, the M9540 burns not quite two gallons an hour but I get twice as much done and don't end the day covered in dust,dirt and have a nose full of pollen/rag weed (swollen sinus). If I had to do it all over again I won't hesitate to buy an M9540. The cab will spoil you, but hey, it's what I get up every day and go to work for!

You got a heck of a deal on your M9540. There was a M9540 where we bought our M8540 and the tires were the same on both. We were replacing a 80 HP we had used for 12 years, so we were familiar with our needs. After discussing it with our salesman who also farms, we decided on the M8540 and have been very happy with it. We were prepared to buy either and since this will be our last big tractor, cost was not an issue. You have to respect a salesperson who will steer you to a lower cost machine.

For use with a bat-wing etc., however I would pick the M9540.

 

[BASSIN20]

I had a box blade on the back of my L5030, but the R4's didn't allow me to do a lot in the mud, so one on the back of the 8540 sure would have been nice. We could not have made it to this pond with one on the back though. We had to cut three Oaks we planted a few years ago just to be able to get in and still scraped a couple up going in and out. A ballast box would have been ideal. We usually use a 10' wheeled scraper on the 8540. Yes, the hydro shuttle works great for loader work.



You got a heck of a deal on your M9540. There was a M9540 where we bought our M8540 and the tires were the same on both. We were replacing a 80 HP we had used for 12 years, so we were familiar with our needs. After discussing it with our salesman who also farms, we decided on the M8540 and have been very happy with it. We were prepared to buy either and since this will be our last big tractor, cost was not an issue. You have to respect a salesperson who will steer you to a lower cost machine.

For use with a bat-wing etc., however I would pick the M9540.

My dad lives in mississippi and has been a long time Kubota owner, I priced the same tractor here in louisiana and found them to be about $2000 to 2,500 higher than what I ended up with. My dad ask me to come up and talk to his friend at the dealership he deals with, needless to say, glad I did. I didn't get the rear wheel weights as I have an attachment that tractor supply sells to fill the tires with water. I used those funds for the hydraulic links and other goodies. I like the water in the tires over the wheel weights because it allows me to change the rear wieght as soil condtions change. Can add a guestimated 1200 lbs. with a water hose. Then simply drain it out and refill with air as compared swapping out tire rims. One thing I don't need is tire ruts all over the place when the ground begins to soften up. The 2715 batwing is a used 2008 ($11,000, not part of the tractor price of course) new ones are $15,000 and up around here. Couldn't justify new over the used one, as the one I bought was in extremely good condition. besides thats more funds to put towards other needs/wants ( hay bailer,eh,eh). I did learn one good leason so far with the batwing/ 9540 combination. you can't engage the batwing with the tractor at idle. it will kill the engine, Even engaging it slowly doesn't help. I found I have to raise the engine speed to around 900 rpm and then slowly engage the PTO for everthing to work as it should. I guess I should have figured that out up front looking the size of the three gear boxes sitting on top of this thing, they remind me of three small ice chest in size. My 4800 being hooked to the 7 ft cutter I have for it, has no problem engaging at idle. Each machine has their on tempraments, just have to learn what they are and how to deal with it. I have owned smaller tractors all my life, this one is my biggest to date and as with you probably my last.

 

[TripleR]

It sure sounds as though you have a very nice setup with your tractor. We engage our 10' at about 1200 or so.

Up here, we can't use water, so we usually use WWF or something like that.

Here is the rig our renters use on our property.

 

[big bubba]

DJ: congrat on your purchase, wise decision on the tractor & employing this forum for advice.
At this point sounds like this thread is in need of the 50 hr service, and am sure you'll move thru all the common sense moves of the break in period, & post pics of projects down the line.....Time to put it to the test.....best, bb