M9540HDC24

[ovrszd]

Agree, same thing can happen each time you add fluid or don't clean off around the dip stick before checking

I was referring to the fluid within the hydraulics of the attachment you couple to.

 

[AllDodge]

I was referring to the fluid within the hydraulics of the attachment you couple to.

OK, guess that would be a major issue if things were being rented

As before, this tractor appears to have had very little maintenance accomplished (repeat, grease fittings on FEL still have orange paint). Think I'm going to have to apply some heat to fee up one of the loader pins, it's seized in the bore

 

[sixdogs]

OK, guess that would be a major issue if things were being rented

As before, this tractor appears to have had very little maintenance accomplished (repeat, grease fittings on FEL still have orange paint). Think I'm going to have to apply some heat to fee up one of the loader pins, it's seized in the bore

I've had similar issues on Kubota loader pins before and now think it's best to remove the loader from tractor and, after the pins are free, remove them and clean all the rusty gunk out of them and reinstall with fresh grease. They get pretty nasty when not always greased and I think that mess can act like an abrasive paste that can make things worse. The boom fittings on the posts of the loader that hook into the portion that remains on the tractor seem to always be the worst.

Here are two of the threads I did on this.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/367688-why-scoring-kubota-loader-pin.html
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/368226-heres-why-you-grease-your.html

 

[Turbys_1700]

Why is that?

I would guess that with emissions the engines are running cleaner?

 

[AllDodge]

I've had similar issues on Kubota loader pins before and now think it's best to remove the loader from tractor and, after the pins are free, remove them and clean all the rusty gunk out of them and reinstall with fresh grease. They get pretty nasty when not always greased and I think that mess can act like an abrasive paste that can make things worse. The boom fittings on the posts of the loader that hook into the portion that remains on the tractor seem to always be the worst.

Here are two of the threads I did on this.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/367688-why-scoring-kubota-loader-pin.html
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/368226-heres-why-you-grease-your.html

Thanks, plan to do that before using.
The post from Billrog about putting it in float to grease is a good idea. I normally shut it down, then move the control all around several times before. Do it the same way with all my equipment

 

[sixdogs]

Thanks, plan to do that before using.
The post from Billrog about putting it in float to grease is a good idea. I normally shut it down, then move the control all around several times before. Do it the same way with all my equipment

Let me add that I like Deere polyurea grease for loaders, especially Kubota loaders. It is Deere's "best" tube grease (good-better-best) and is thicker so the loader feels tighter. Kubota loaders, in my opinion, tend to feel sloppier even though they may not be. The poly grease, however, makes them feel snug as new and doesn't migrate everywhere like a moly grease does.

Here's a pic of it off the 'net.
John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Gun Grease - TY6341

 

[JWR]

AllDodge: Do not know/have not read every single post on this thread, whether others have mentioned this... but you might think about the possibility that the loader frame has been twisted very slightly. It does not take much to cause the pins to be VERY tight. I have found one way to diagnose that (as well as free up the pins) is to put the tractor on a nice flat concrete floor and use a 4x4 scrap or other chunk of wood under one side of the bucket. Then force the bucket downward just a little and experiment to see if the pin gets free or not. Of course you do this on both left and right sides of the bucket in a cut-and-try process.

I am convinced that ALL quick removal loaders (no other kinds exist any more...) have some degree of "twist" that is residual, (amount left in the current position of the loader) after each usage. Sometimes a little to the left,sometimes to the right, usually very small, hopefully negligible, amount. You can verify this via using the same flat concrete floor and tractor position and measuring bucket tip height on far left and then far right. Of course there are many variables in taking these measurements and it is differential (not absolute) distance from the floor that you are looking for.

OBTW, I have mentioned on other threads that none of the loader manufacturers (nor the Nebraska world-class tractor test lab) ever seem to publish torque information on loaders -- what they will stand, how much torque it takes to produce a given amount of angular deflection, what amount of imbalanced force does it take to leave a permanent 'bend', etc.

 

[AllDodge]

sixdogs thanks for the tip, will have a look. Have used all kinds of grease and for me its always been, remembering to grease. There is another old timer (like me) on Iboats (goes by Bondo) and has a tag line, any grease is better then no grease

JWR will try that, but the loader really looks like it was hardly used at all, not to say that the one time it was used it was damaged

 

[sixdogs]

Sure wasn't used much and all loaders are bent to some degree. The good news is what has been bent can be un-bent. I've had creaking loaders stop creaking after I pulled the loader pins, wiped pins and bushings clean and regreased. Some grease is better than no grease is indeed true. But so is some dog food (for people) is better than no food.

Try the Deere polyurea grease. Oh, note that the second thread I referenced above was why you should remember to grease your loader. Print the photo of the scored pin and tape to your mirror.

 

[JWR]

...

... JWR will try that, but the loader really looks like it was hardly used at all, not to say that the one time it was used it was damaged

I would not necessarily consider the loader to be damaged because it has some slight twist in it. As sixdogs said 'all loaders are bent some.'
My belief is that with quick removal loaders there is inherently some small amount of slop in the loader mounting and, every time you stop using it, it probably rests in a tiny bit different position because of that slop. "Tiny" being small enough that no one ever notices it without picky measurements but maybe just enough that the pins bind a bit. Maybe.