Markham Toothbar Here!

johnday · May 20, 2005

cedar; I just used the bar as a guide and bulled my way thru with I think was 1/2" bit. Inserted a stainless bolt I got thru a flatwasher from inside the bucket, thru the backer they sent me, a flat washer, then split washer, and then the nut. I also welded the backer plate they sent to the outside of the bucket, 2 less pieces to lose that way. I also used all stainless hardware. Took way less than an hour, and that included finding my tools. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Tim_in_IA · May 25, 2005

what is the most important detail for alignment? I am guessing it is getting the bar back as far as you can while keeping the cutter bar flat in the bucket? Not sure if I am making sense here. The farther back I set the toothbar the more tendancy it has to tilt up, down, depending how you are looking at it. Since the bar gets its strenght from the bucket cutting edge I am assuming these should have a nice tight fit, and that the edge of the bucket cutting edge should make contact with the back of the teeth in the slot at some point consistantly across. I'm not even going to try to rewrite that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

johnday · May 25, 2005

Tim; There is a V shaped notch at the rear of each tooth. Just slide the toothbar into your bucket and slide those notches so your cutting edge is inserted into them. If you happen to have the bolt on cutting edge, you'll have to remove it for proper fit. These things are pretty much self aligning, it may tip a little up or down, but not a whole lot. Your right, I think it does gain strength from your cutting edge. Hope that helps and you understand my version of English. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

JasonL · May 25, 2005

Wow! I just got my Markham Welding toothbar tonight. It looks awesome. I only had time to test fit it, but I have the same question Mathey had- Has anyone fastened it on with only pins?? I read some other threads on the subject, but the only answers I saw were it is pretty quick unbolting it. Right, but it would be super quick to just remove two pins, wouldn't it? Also it appears that Markham's toothbar wedges tight to the cutting edge so the pressure would be there not on the bolts/pins. Also, is everyone welding on the backer plates (same reasoning)? I guess I'm just lazy, but I want to make it the easiest I can without sacrificing quality. Jason

allpontiac · May 25, 2005

Mine are welded - that way I can't lose them

KiotiJohn · May 26, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, is everyone welding on the backer plates (same reasoning)? I guess I'm just lazy, but I want to make it the easiest I can without sacrificing quality. Jason )</font>
My toothbar didn't come with backer plates, but washers for both sides work just fine on mine. I've had no bending or other problems from the bolts.
I plan to cut holes for pins in mine as I see no reason not to use them. Of course I'll wire the snap pins together so they don't get pulled out by those hidden treaures that seem to love snap pins.
John

67PLY · May 27, 2005

RECEIVED A MARKHAM TOOTH TODAY FOR OUR MFGC2310 - SIMILAR BUCKET AS KUBOTA BX. WHEN I MOVE IT IN PLACE ON THE BUCKET AS FAR BACK AS IT WILL GO -- I HAVE A 1/4 TO 3/8 GAP BETWEEN THE BOTTOM OF THE CUTTING EDGE AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BUCKET. THE TRACTOR IS NEW - SO THE BUCKET IS NOT WORN. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG???????

67PLY · May 28, 2005

Please excuse the above use of capital letters in my reply. My caps lock key was "engaged"

Tim_in_IA · May 30, 2005

I found my problem. There were some huge welds in my bucket that were interfering with the proper seating of the toothbar. Got them ground down a bit yesterday and it fits great now. Thanks!

67PLY · May 30, 2005

I spoke to Markham and they said having a gap was normal on some of smaller light weight buckets having a thinner cutting edge. The important part is to have the tooth bar back against the cutting edge tight prior to marking and drilling the 1/2" holes for the mounting bolts.