Markham Toothbar Here!

[cedarman]

Markham toothbar arrived today and will install this weekend. I read awhile back on the best way to drill but would appreciate a reminder. Also, is it best to have the nuts for the bolts on the inside and cut bolt off reasonably close to nut?

 

[nysdotinspector]

The best way for me to mount my toothbar was to , place the toothbar inside the bucket and use the pre drilled holes in the toothbar as a guide drilling from the inside out. It took me about 10 minutes to drill and mount. I also placed a flat washer between the tooth bar and the bucket. A perfect job. Also I placed the nuts on the inside of the bucket and did not cut the bolt.

 

[Bird]

I did the same; with only the head of the bolt on the outside, I figured I could get closer to obstacles without worrying about a bolt catching on anything. Some folks have mentioned trying to keep the threads clean, but I never worried about that. I had plenty of spare bolts (but never needed one) and a good impact wrench to remove the bolts when I wanted the toothbar off.

 

[rcrcomputing]

I used a bi-metel hole saw. Worked great.
As my bolts were long. I put them to the inside and put an extra nut on to protect the threads.

 

[mathey]

funny...mine came today as well (not to mention it was $30 cheaper than originally since they can ship via UPS now!)...I was just geting on here to find the posts I read a while back about installation tips...

so, I'm guessing I'll need a 1/2" bi-metal hole saw, some washers to fill the gaps...correct?

also, I know this was talked about before, but why I couldn't use a 1/2" clevis pin and a hitchpin clip instead of the bolt/nut/washer? I know it only takes a few minutes to get the bar off, but I use my slip on forks alot, and it would nice to remove the bar quickly.

 

[JasonL]

Mathey- I ordered one from Markham yesterday. (49") To ship UPS was $156 (almost as much as the bar!!!) Ended up shipping Conway freight to business address. I guess my question is what advantage is UPS. Surely my bar is about as small as they come, so why was UPS an option for you and not for me?? Jason

 

[mathey]

hmmm, I have no clue how UPS figures their rates...how much was the freight cost?

 

[JasonL]

Freight was $64.81. The weight is about 65 lbs (I think) I don't think the weight would be a problem for UPS, but maybe the shape? I wonder if Markham boxed it if that would change things? I decided to just do what the lady suggested and have it shipped freight, but it does have me wondering??? Jason

 

[mathey]

well, for what its worth, I trust Markham's, they seemed genuinely interested in shipping it via whatever way was best for me...and I'm sure they did the same for you...

 

[creeper]

A regular 1/2" bit works just fine, no need to go get a hole saw unless you have to get a bit either way. I put the nut on the inside and used the toothbar as a guide as others did.

 

[johnday]

cedar; I just used the bar as a guide and bulled my way thru with I think was 1/2" bit. Inserted a stainless bolt I got thru a flatwasher from inside the bucket, thru the backer they sent me, a flat washer, then split washer, and then the nut. I also welded the backer plate they sent to the outside of the bucket, 2 less pieces to lose that way. I also used all stainless hardware. Took way less than an hour, and that included finding my tools. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Tim_in_IA]

what is the most important detail for alignment? I am guessing it is getting the bar back as far as you can while keeping the cutter bar flat in the bucket? Not sure if I am making sense here. The farther back I set the toothbar the more tendancy it has to tilt up, down, depending how you are looking at it. Since the bar gets its strenght from the bucket cutting edge I am assuming these should have a nice tight fit, and that the edge of the bucket cutting edge should make contact with the back of the teeth in the slot at some point consistantly across. I'm not even going to try to rewrite that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[johnday]

Tim; There is a V shaped notch at the rear of each tooth. Just slide the toothbar into your bucket and slide those notches so your cutting edge is inserted into them. If you happen to have the bolt on cutting edge, you'll have to remove it for proper fit. These things are pretty much self aligning, it may tip a little up or down, but not a whole lot. Your right, I think it does gain strength from your cutting edge. Hope that helps and you understand my version of English. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JasonL]

Wow! I just got my Markham Welding toothbar tonight. It looks awesome. I only had time to test fit it, but I have the same question Mathey had- Has anyone fastened it on with only pins?? I read some other threads on the subject, but the only answers I saw were it is pretty quick unbolting it. Right, but it would be super quick to just remove two pins, wouldn't it? Also it appears that Markham's toothbar wedges tight to the cutting edge so the pressure would be there not on the bolts/pins. Also, is everyone welding on the backer plates (same reasoning)? I guess I'm just lazy, but I want to make it the easiest I can without sacrificing quality. Jason

 

[allpontiac]

Mine are welded - that way I can't lose them

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, is everyone welding on the backer plates (same reasoning)? I guess I'm just lazy, but I want to make it the easiest I can without sacrificing quality. Jason )</font>
My toothbar didn't come with backer plates, but washers for both sides work just fine on mine. I've had no bending or other problems from the bolts.
I plan to cut holes for pins in mine as I see no reason not to use them. Of course I'll wire the snap pins together so they don't get pulled out by those hidden treaures that seem to love snap pins.
John

 

[67PLY]

RECEIVED A MARKHAM TOOTH TODAY FOR OUR MFGC2310 - SIMILAR BUCKET AS KUBOTA BX. WHEN I MOVE IT IN PLACE ON THE BUCKET AS FAR BACK AS IT WILL GO -- I HAVE A 1/4 TO 3/8 GAP BETWEEN THE BOTTOM OF THE CUTTING EDGE AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BUCKET. THE TRACTOR IS NEW - SO THE BUCKET IS NOT WORN. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG???????

 

[67PLY]

Please excuse the above use of capital letters in my reply. My caps lock key was "engaged"

 

[Tim_in_IA]

I found my problem. There were some huge welds in my bucket that were interfering with the proper seating of the toothbar. Got them ground down a bit yesterday and it fits great now. Thanks!

 

[67PLY]

I spoke to Markham and they said having a gap was normal on some of smaller light weight buckets having a thinner cutting edge. The important part is to have the tooth bar back against the cutting edge tight prior to marking and drilling the 1/2" holes for the mounting bolts.